GJM85

Well so you do know, pushrod length becomes an issue at that late stage as does compression and valve clearence. When old mmate puts this thing together he'd want to be looking for another head....

I think that was the TRD sticker...

That small half circle above the lug 'pictured' is a wear mark. The 4k and 5k heads i've got have a much deeper mark. And that head has not got much life left in it.

It doesn't appear to drop into the lifter gallery. Is there a hole in the block for it to fit into? If so it's most likely a locating lug. Also that head has been faced to within an 1/8th of an inch of it's life.

No... you screwed yourself.

f@$kin aye it does!

To my knowledge not a great deal. Less resistance on the cam I believe, but it turned out the datsun pushrods are solid and k motor pushrods are hollow. The solid rods will take more punishment allowing for higher rpm as they have a degree of flexability, where the hollow rods may bend if given more than they can take.

front to back.

The guy near me quoted $106p/hr at about 2 1/2 to 4 hrs depending on how far you want to go. I went down to trade tools and bought a die grinder with alloy bit. Cost me $85. I then looked through this PDF (How to build a TRD spec Upright motor!) and worked on the specified area's. My first job was ruff but it'lll cut the mustard...

Is blue star saffire from the '72 LT celica I believe

bosch leads will be fine.... no matter how big your spark is, the bang ain't getting any bigger.

toyota landcruiser 3f lifters but you'll need pushrods to suit. I've gone with the 202 lifters and datsun pushrods. The lifters set me back 90 doi and the pushrods I bought out of Japan for 135 doi including postage. Not easy to find in this baron wasteland. And you will DEFINATELY need your cam reground. Solid cams are ground with ramps on the lobes, hydros are not. With out it you'll end up with an engine that sounds likt the 3801! Just ask Zoidberg...

Champion or top gun do the best leads. In my 4a-fc bosch leads kept earthing out in the plugs cylinders after a few months.

Reset rear leaf springs, short stroke strut inserts and lowered springs in the front. As for front brakes, any ke model front hubs, rotors and calipers. The bigger the better considering there are no bolt booster upgrades a available. The rear end is a lot harder. Maybe just a ke 30-55 diff upgrade with bigger rear drums.

You won't need adjustable rockers because you have hydraulic cam followers/lifters. You will need to have your cam ground to suit solid lifters, get some solid lifters and get pushrods that are the right length. Then you could use adjustable rocker gear.

[script]Unfortunately I am selling up on the ke55 project. It was a bit rash of me to attempt to manage 2 projects, 3 other cars and a family at once. The sedan is being sold to my brother , CA-ROLLA, and he will continue the restoration and use as A2B rolling stock. It has been agreed that as I've spent signifgantly more on the car than he is paying for it, I will be taking the 5 speed out and replacing it with the ke20 4 speed. I may well continue to log the progress of the 55 and you never know, it might well come back to me... one day.[/script][play_music=:world's smallest violin]

I have disappointingly moved on now. My brother is currently abusing it until my sister gets her license early next year. I drove it last night and it still goes hard as I remember it. Only it now smells of cigarettes and oil smoke.

Go boy racer Go!

Yeah I wasn't to impressed because he must've lied the whole way through or didn't have a clue what he was talking about. Either way I got the diff, tailshft and springs for less than half the agreed amount to i'm cheering.

As it appears you've already done all the throat work, i'll just send all my gear to you for machining....

Yeah I spoke to Brendan at MSR yesterday. The 20 is ready for paint and they were starting on the boot and engine bay today. Satin Black. He think they should be onto the body by Friday or early next week so I might have it back in the next week or two. I've been chasing this dude about the rear end driveline for about 2 weeks now and we organised for a sunday pick up and he stooged me. He then called me up yesterday and organised to drop it off for me today. Now, I was paying top dollar for this gear on the provision it had the 5 speed box. I had to leave before he arrived so I left the money with JP and told him "make sure its a five speed box". He rocked up with no selector in the box, so JP pulled the selector out of my spare 4sp box and surpise suprise no 5th.

Are 5k dished engines solid or hydraulic?

Wow, now your talking crazy!

That's nice to know...

Look pushrods... aren't they something. How many sizes are there for the K motor series? I've measured the few I have so please do the same for the good of the forum's FAQ. 1K - 2K(import) - 3K(early) - 172mm 3K - 175/176mm 4K - 186mm 4K(with lugs) - 180mm? 5K(solid lifter, D-Dish piston) - 180mm? 5k(hydraulic lifter, D-dish piston) - 150mm 5k(hydraulic lifter, shallow dish piston - 156mm 7k - A12 - 152mm PS: no i'm not a kiwi though I did source my apparently false information from Club-K.