GJM85

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I now have a much better understanding of what i'm in for. I also now wish i had uses the ke70 struts and had the shortened. Southside Suspenion shortened my ke20 struts anyhow to get the low I requested. Win some lose some. I'll make this work. I'll look into re-enforcing the axle flange. This will allow me to offset the caliper from the mounting bracket.... maybe.

I think the main problem is the inner bearing, which is a ke20 sits a few millimeters further into the back off the 70 rotor than it does in the 20. Also the 20 calipers are a lot smaller. I'm using the 70 hubs becuase I need the PCD.

OK. Removin the dust cover will fix one problem. The other is how to I fit the caliper between the backing plat and the rotor? Cutting the caliper mount section of the backing plate and rewelding an offset section to bring the caliper inwards? Have considered a spacer between the inner bearing and the sub axle to bring the hub outwards, but seems a little risky...

Having issues fitting ke70 calipers and rotors onto the ke20 struts. I've got ke20 struts and wheel bearings, redrilled ke70 dust covers, ke70 hubs, rotors and calipers. The issue at hand comes down to clearances. Firstly. There is about 2mm clearance between the rotor and raised section of the dust cover. I believe this raised area is designed to clear the control arm. This seems to close to comfort. The other issue is the caliper won't fit between the rotor the dust cover when I attempt to mount the caliper. Does anyone know how to get our these problems?

I feel the gear change is a critcal action in the driving experience.

steering damper.

A K motor is a beginners motor. Keep it simple. Mixing motors leads to arse pain unless you know what your doing.

$260 for the Exedy HD. You could probably get cheaper HD's but I want know my 5000rpm launches are gonna stick. I know PBR do one for $180 and Extreme are cheaper also.

TWENNY POWER!!! :eatlead:

Fly wheel all cleaned up. Not lightened. Keeping the low end torque. New spigot bush. Interesting way of removing it thanks to dad. Pump the hollow behind the bearing full of grease and use a punch the same diameter as the internal bearing diameter. Wack it good. Made the punch on the lathe and it doubled as a makeshift clutch locator. New throw out bearing in the gearbox. Got it all together thanks to Nick bro. Removed and redrilled the gearbox crossmember to suit the ke70 5 speed. Dropped the donk and gearbox in, Fitted the started motor, hooked up the clutch.... needs a new clutch cable. There isn't a great deal of clearance between the harmonic balancer and the sway bar. The back end is still in question. Looks like it'll be a total fabrication job. I've got the ke20 wheel bearings for the 70 hubs so I should have the front wheels and brakes sorted out shortly. Here's some picatures.

Yeah. It's kind of up in the air as to what i'm going to do at the moment. Fulcrum don't believe there will be a shock absorber that will have the length, eye and stem I need. So there is one problem. The leaf springs being on the piss is another. I bought budgey rubber bushes for the rear springs because I wasn't sure how things will work out. At the moment it looks like I'll be cutting the spring mounts off the 20 diff and welding them onto the 55 diff. It would allow me to have the leaf springs positioned properly and use the 20 shock absorbers. This would be the easiest method if I had the equipment. If anyone ever tells you a 55 diff is a straight bolt in job, punch them in the face repeatedly. :hammer:

thanks for the confirmation buddy!

Ok, so I got the exedy clutch, ke55 Boge shocks and shackle bushes. The shocks are about 100mm short so I'll need to source something else. :glare: I think the top mounting points in the 55 sedan are lower than the 20 mounting points. The handbrake is hooked up and works sweet, the brake lines are on the diff and the bushes are in. I need to get a spigot bearing for the crankshaft. I'm taking the flywheel in for a refacing and lightening tomorrow if its within the reco shop capabilities. The ke70 wheel bearing on the ke20 sub axle is questionable. There is some movement when I put the wheels on.

Do ke70 wheel bearings fit onto ke20 sub axles? I've fitted the the whole ke70 lot onto the ke20 struts and there seems to be some movement when i fet the wheel...

....or the clutch plate is in backwads.

Depending on what the 5k came out of (ie. Liteace?). The "5k" flywheel takes a larger spline than the k50 gearbox and a larger clutch. Although it is stamped 4k it doesn't fit the spline. Also when you change to a 4k flywheel with the 180mm clutch face you need to get a 180m 4k clutch.

rebuild the 5k... build it hot!

Thanks for the support buddy. The clutch set me back $260 which is more than I thought it would be...

Well, I found out only by trying it myself. A 55 diff is about 35mm longer overall and 10mm longer at the spring mounts so when you mount the front spring eyes the springs end up an inch wide of the shackle mounts at the rear. so you pull the spring inwards to mount the rear shackles. Other than that it was all sweet. I just need to weld some mounts to the underbody to fix off the rear sway bar. This is the closest pic I have at the moment. The rear wheels have 185/60's on the and I plan on using 175/70's. The 55 springs are much firmer than the 20's and as it's only lowered 50mm I can't see the wheels ever touching the gaurds unless I get all Starsky and Hutch through the city. On another note I just ordered Exedy HD organic clutch, rear shackle bushes and Boge shocks for the rear....

yeah. the spring mounts are between 5 and 10mm wider on the 55 diff. But easy enough to pull in.

Today was another big effort. Wired wheeled the leaf springs, swapped over the hand brake cables and got the shit all together. Fitting became an issue. The locating lugs on the lowering blocks were 24mm when we need 19mm. Thank you Mr Lathe. We had to redrill the base plates because the extended U-bolts are 12mm instead of 10mm. Got it all up and found we only had 4 of the 8 ke55 rear shackle bushes and the ke20 KYB shock lower end don't fit onto the the ke55 diff. :glare: But we fitted up the best way we could for now, got the rear wheels on and finished preping the front calipers. I'll sort a set of bushes and a new set of ke55 shocks this week....

I say yes! :y:

I'd be looking for the rover 3.5L. Pretty common and all alloy. I saw a Celica with one and mechanical injection some time ago...

ok so I got the struts back from Southside Suspension. Shortened ke20 legs with VW Mach 1 Boge inserts, bump stops and custom 55mm King Springs. And for the rear 50mm lowering blocks. I go the struts in. I had to use the ke70 dust covers, redrilled. I used the ke70 rotors, wheel bearings and hubs. I picked up some PBR caliper kits for the girlock calipers. One caliper came apart well and is painted ready to go back together. The I couldn't get the piston out of the other to its soaking up some inox black in the hope it frees it up. I am unsure how to refit the main seal into the caliper so i'm looking for assistance with that. The front wheels are on without the calipers for now so I could get the rear end up and diff out. I know i'll need to use the ke20 handbrake cables on the 55 diff but other than that i'm hoping it goes straight in. It looks promising. I also need to work out how i'm going to mount the rear sway bar... The speaker wire is down and test fitted the carpet. It's all cut so should just be a matter of heating it, moulding it in and trimming the excess.... Here's the only pics I got last night...