GJM85

When I was at Tighe Engineering picking up my cam last year, they did have a car magazine strategically placed by the counter. Can't remember which mag but there was an article on a yellow turboed 3k ke20/30 2 door claimed to be putting down 200+HP. I should go back there to just steal that magazine and scan the arse off it!!! Now I'm not one to just dribble shit... so believe it or not....

I'd say this guy got it right up there.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/48083-robbie-butler-79-drag-news/page__p__495557__hl__robbie__fromsearch__1#entry495557

It's good to see you made it home safe with no trouble from the fuzz I hope....

Go drift King!~ Pepsi is running out of cans.....

Southside Suspension did the front front struts in my ke20. The issues are kings only makes 38mm (1&1/2in) springs as stock for about $125, you'll need to use short stroke insert if you go lower and not a great deal of short stroke inserts fit into the ke20 struts. I think pedders are the only company who makes them. If at all. I took my struts to southside suspension. The had Kings recoil a pair of 38mm springs to 55mm. They shortened the overall strut leg by 50mm and machined up a threaded sleave to allow fitment of a short stroke VW Golf MKI Boge inserts and bump stops to suit. The set up including labour cost me on the plus side 700$ but its money well spent.

I have boge VW MKI inserts in my ke20 struts and boge ke55 rear shocks in my ke20. Not on the road yet but it seems rock solid. The ke55 rear shocks are about 1 inch wider in diametre than the orininal ke20 KYB's that came out so that's a plus. Though i'm led to believe KYB and Boge come from the same manufacturer but are sold by different distributors.

priority #1 tgrade me corolla and buy a bommodore/skyline/subaru. prioriy#2 realise there's nothing like and original 1982 ke55 or a 1972 ke25 or a 4age powered ke70 etc..... priority #3 get married, have kids and forget all about cars cause your f@$ked.... like me....

Depends wholey on the application and the finace at hand. I'f its your first car and your looking for fast and furious action..... considcer your options. LKnowledge up or F-off! I'm sick of one timers. Mummy and Daddy bought you a good, reliable, affordable car. If your going to abuse that by ricing the shit out of it, then above applies to you. Otherwise, respect the corolla & learn much about it. Realise there is more to a car than going fatally fast and killing your closest friends. Peace out! 4afc owners

Just buy a 180sx... on a personal note I care little for cross breeds. But I guess I'm a real enthusiast.... :worship:

I've spent almost 20000$ on my ke20. Full restoration, rebuild and conversion to twin sidedraft 5k. I've managed this much in 8 months. Real toys cost money. Realistically You wouldn't get out of a decent sr20 conversion and rebuild for less than 20k and probably 30k for the J motor. You can sit down and think your gonna get out of it budget cos your good with a welder, but to do it right first time....your kidding yourself.... Yeah you might get it in there for less but over the next year or two you'll weed out yourr problems and realise you've blown the budget.

Sounds like a vaccum leak to me...

Not sure that's your call to make....

Most legit part suppliers won't supply any blocks lower than 2in. Unless your good at gum work.

smoke?

I can see the insides from here....

you need to look at air flow when using smaller carbs. i had the 3k carb and big port manifold on my moderately worked 5k and it got plenty of fuel when winding the mixture screw out, but the air flow was severely limited due to small thoats.

TWENNIE POWER!!!!

blue shirt with lower case 'rollaclub' in white, front and back in extra large cos that's where i plan on being when I finish this wednesday 15 pack>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> :drinks:\ NB: I would pay extra for a club member shirt that said GJM85 under the rollaclub in white lower case on blue....

woo f@$king hoo! there is no turing back.... your balls deep man.....balls deep!!! :y: :y: :y:

I paid 90$ through southside suspension for 50mm lowering blocks.....

I've got a seca, giving it to my sister soon.... don't go any bigger than a 15in rim or you'll lose all that good fwd flat throttle handling ability... doesn't mean you can't go low. my brother had a pulsar with 17's. turning corners was a bitch and giving it pedal in a corner just ment chatter and understeer. the red rocket left it for dead in corners.

believe it or not but when driving responsibly on open road 500rpm between 4th an d 5th will save a considerable amount of fuel. There is little difference if any at all between the lower gear ratios of the k40 and k50 therefore the 5 speed is a better box as itallows a high top speed and a lower cruising rpm.... if you are just ringing the crap out of your 4k in a paddock, track or on a short trip round town don't fuss about the gearbox.

keep it cool, keep it quiet.... ....it'll still go like the clappers. :y: :y: :y: ....and that't what opens eyes.

Hard to say yet. still need to straighten the diff cos its about 7mm out. get the door cards done, do the tyres, wheel alignment and exaust, get the dizzy regraphed and fix the carby's. No tellying how long that's going to take me. Yeah my brother accidentally over tightened it. It could have already been cracked but we're not sure. We are looking at getting it welded. Apparently there is a dude near here who can weld casted alloy. If not we'll go with the flange and glue. The dude at Adaptatune who rejettted them may have a spare body but there's no telling. All I know is it's a set back I can't afford to replace.... Type R Solex's don't exactly grow on trees

twennies shit all over r31's... standard they're all class and no arse, literally (all wagon's have a lot oof arse though). :happy: r31's are all arse and no class unless you've got a gtr. wik-wiki your budget, how much you don't mind chopping up an original and classic car, your motivation and your innovation will all determine what you can do. The dirty30 is a tough 6 but I think a hot 5k in a 700kg car will most likely do what you want with the least amount of work. Brakes and suspension will need to be looked at purely because 40 year old discs and struts just ain't what the used to be.