GJM85

Oh yeah, hang on. I just cocked that up big time. I've had to refer back to my build thread. I used holden red motor lifters, a12 pushrods @ 156mm and the 4k adjustable rocker gear.

There may be an issue with the bolt pattern. I'm sure someone can clarify though...

Yeah you gotta watch that kid.... he's got sticky fingers. :fuzz:

Very good turnout I thought, considering this was my first ever visit. Just a couple of lazy snaps I got today, not all Toyotas. The sun was bright and there was not a cloud in the sky. so my camera phone didn't perform to well. Some you may recognise. Feel free to add your own pics. :happy:

Hey, I used 4k pushrods. 186mm a12 156mm ball and cup used with the adjustable rocker gear, I believe. You may have a dished piston 4k head which is 6mm shorter than the flat top head.

'as requested in previous post' :happy: 5k, cam, head job, sidedrafts, extractors, electronic ignition, exedy clutch, 5 speed in a ke20.

You really need to look at the wheel track of the vehicles. If the wheel track is wider in the rear then you can guarentee the spring mounds will be wider, which is one problem. The shock absorber mounts on the diff is the other problem. I was caught by a rumour that ke55 diffs bolt straight into ke20's. Not so.

I'm taking a leisurely drive on Sunday. I think i'll be taking a camera.

Throttle response and induction noise from a pod? You could also buy V-TEC sticker....

Nothing you put on top of that carburettor is going to out perform the orginal intake. The engine was designed with performance of economy in mind. That is the engine is at its best when you leave it alone. The best upgrade for you would be a manual transmission. That intake system performs plenty of tasks... cold air intake intake pressure balancer air suction valve (balances exaust back pressure and intake vacuum). warm air intake valve (cold starts) Crankcase intake ...to name a few Of all the f@$king around I did with my 4af-c nothing performed better than the original intake setup. Considering what you've given up, you definately need some form of cold air access to that pod filter. Some time ago now, this was mine in its prime. Suspension, strut brace, wheels, cat back exaust, port work, good coil, leads and minus the air con. The sister drives it now. Goes hard as ever.

Carters...aye! I'll egay that shit up!

Yeah. I might just keep the mechanical pump for now and get the regulator. I think mechanicals put out about 5psi anyhow.

So these pumps aren't worth a pinch of shit?

Yeah ignition switch will be a must.

Ok, well the easiest place to mount it is gonna be in the boot, because the fuel lines run out the tank under the parcel shelf and up into the C-pillar where they magically apppear out of the lower right side of the firewall. There's not a whole lot involved in wireing them up is there? I don't need a relay or anything?

Greetings, just picking the brain of anyone with the know how, I am looking to replace the mechanical fuel pump of my twin sidedraft 5k with an external electric pump and regulator to make way for future plans. I am looking at 4-6psi Fedtro solid state fuel pump on ebay for an easy $34.85. Wondering if this item would be a suitable replacement for the mechanical one? :hmm: 4.0 – 6.0psi Fedtro Solid State Electric Fuel Pump 12V

Yeah I was just taking the piss. Not even sure what the real benefit of a billet cam would be anyhow.

.... lots and lots..... more than any man could afford on the average Australian wage. You would have to be on the super rich list and then also get a hefty loan just to afford the down payment.

When is the all Jap day? I'd be heaps keen to get out there and tax time should see it on the road. I'm getting heaps of loose ends tied up at the moment. I'd say a it would be very close to road worthy now. Today I tiedied up some wires and cables under the hood. Fitted a pcv setup, running into cylinder 1. Hooked up the old school Stewart and Warner 4" tacho. Battery clamp and squirty bottle. Customized the fuel breather. Centre console. Fitted the Toyota badge on the boot. Prepped the door cards so I just need some clips and then they can be trimmed. I painted a few things here and there. The wipers are ready as soon as I get blades. I want to make up a stainless steel heat shield for the sidedrafts, though. Few more pics...

I'm a freak I guess... :P Not through preference. I just had solex's on hand so I'm using them. Your still looking at about 500-600 each for recoed solex's....

It's been a good 6 weeks since I've touched the ke20 and today I recieved a sudden burst of motivation after a big score at the wreckers today. I picked up and fitted new leads, door catches, boott and bonnet latches, a grill badge for the 25 grill, a full set of wheel nuts so i can get the superlites back on and a new ke36 passenger side engine mount. All for $50. I gave the old girl a wash because it was filty, I've fitted a few things up. Still need to get two tyres on the superlites for the front. Also got a Stewart & Warner tacho instead of the big flash Speco one. Today's real achievement was with the engine mount i found. It's offset a fair way in comparison to the standard. Fitting it was a complete bitch but the results were bitching. It moved the engine upwards about and inch so now the sump doesn't sit lower than the crossmember and towards the drivers side by about the same distance allowing me to fit all the ram tube and air socks on the side drafts. :dance: The only issue was with the fan now being in contact with the fan shroud, so it came out. The carbies sit a lot closer to level also. Tomorrow or Monday I want to fit the boot latch, centre console, get the door cards fitter and ready for trim, re-align the diff and try to set the caster on the front wheels. Maybe... I'm still chasing a fuel reg, pitman arm, a dizzy regraph and exaust.

Just giving everyone on the southside of Brisbane a tip.... at the ABC/Parkridge Wreckers, off Station Rd near Marsden, there currently lies a: - blue ke36 wagon with a 4a-c conversion from 3k-h. I got heaps brand new still packaged gear out of the front seat. KE36 passenger side engine mount, early model door catchs, boot latch, ke20 bonnet stand and bonnet catch, K motor dizzy cap, rotor button and leads all brand spanking new for $50. I left behind, a new oil filter, fan belt and brand new outer seat hinges. It's got king springs and what appears to be reset leafs and lowering blocks. All the interior panels, roof lining, exterior trims, ke30 grill and a overrated condition chrome rear bumper, the front one appears to be shagged. Great look radiator also. - yellow ke70 4k 5speed with beige interior. The body is a bit rough but the interior is mostly intact. I nabbed the taco cluster(now for sale)and a full set of wheel nuts for my superlites. Heaps of good original gear there also. Good luck!

Have the same problem with twins on my KE20, though I haven't had time or money to do anything on the car in what seems like months. I was informed a spacer could work but was concerned about how it may affect other areas of the engine. I guess the later L/H mount is the fix. I need about 10mm to fit the last ram tube on. I've got redline socks to go on aswell.

This.... A 3k runs a 75mm bore and a 66mm stroke A 4k runs a 75mm bore and a 73mm stroke a 5k runs a 80mm bore and a 73mm stroke You see how a 5k is just a stroked and bored 3k..... :rolls: Quite clearly someones looking to get make a high powered 3k. Stroking a 3k won't get you there as they make their power through their ability to rev off tap with the shorter stroke. It's like the holden 253 and 308. You can do the all the crap in the world to the smaller one and get a lot out of it. You can also do the same thing to the bigger one and get more....