GJM85

The GT40r should run a resistor. The first thing to go will be your leads if you take it out. Otherwise run a Hot Spark.

A lot of auto suppliers will recommend Nolathane before they even mention Super Pro. People will dispute the price and difference but at the end of the day a new bush is better then an old one.

They new carb probably takes the cable linkage that resembles the brake cables on your pushbike.

You don't really need a separate thread for this. I went to my local Auto Pro (ie. Beenleigh Bearings - 0738071155). I told them I wanted Holden 202 solid lifters. They called their supplier and passed on my request. They got the anti-pump up lifters. $90 for #8. HEY PRESTO!

Sounds neat as, but using 2 lanes through a round-about ain't general driving... Is this just a stock 5k with sidedrafts? What the work>?

...then you should be running the gt40r.

wikipedia - Aftermarker exaust parts This should give you a better understanding of what your doing.

There is actually a thread called "Hotdog Mufffler I think was floating round earlier. As said. 2inch from the tube headers joined with a flange, 2inch resonator into a 1 and 3/4inch pipe and then a glass pack sports muffler at the rear. FTW!!! If you had a 5k i'd advise a 2inch through and through...

Looks neat as. Good work. :dance:

2AZ-FXE

:wtf: Yes, maybe, depends? 2inch hectic bent. :wasted: a 4 thottle? Where can I get one???

Repco, Autobahn, Auto One, Auto Pro, Bursons, Aussie Auto Spares, Ebay..... the list goes on buddy.

Name: Gav Juan el Capi-tuan Car: 1972 KE20 Toyota Corolla SE Motor & Driveline: 5k, 20 thou over bore(1566cc), Pro-Torque twin timing kit, Tighe 104 camshaft, Holden 202 lifters, Datsun A12 pushrods, port and polished head, 3k big port manifold, 38/38 Webber DGAS, MDS Steetfire CD Ignition, GT40 coil, cold plugs, Hurricane extractors (wrapped), 2inch mandrel exaust with glass pack muffler, Exedy Sports Tuff clutch, KE70 5 speed, shortened ke55 tailshaft and BW 4:11 diff. Suspension & Brakes: FRONT- Shortened ke20 struts, 55mm Kings, Boges VW Golf mk1 inserts and bump stops, KE70 Girlock rotors and calipers, Nolathane bush kit. REAR- KE55 leafs springs, 50mm lowering blocks, Boges KE55 shocks, KE55 229mm drum brakes, rubber bush kit. Wheels & Tyres: Cheviot style mesh 13x5.5, Yokohama 175/70 R13 Interior: Orignal mostly. Reupholstery with 2010 ford pattern inserts, Knox cut pile black carpet, retractable seatbelts, Stewart & Warner tacho. JVC 270w 6x9's, JVC 4x50w head unit. Body: Paint & panel by MSR Kustoms, blue star saffire, new rubber kit, KE25 grill, KE25 roof mounted antenna on the guard.

Good stuff man. Thought we'd lost you there for a while.

152mm

well I used the anti pump lifters/solids. I wouldn't count on the starfire lifter being of any use.

Not a great deal yet. Waiting on the tax return so I can finish this thing off. Otherwise just a few small things. I got a new indicator regulator. The steel brick one must have f@$ked out because I wasn't getting any flash. So a $12 Narva 2 pronged unit should hopefully fix that up. I've decided to run with the Cheviot meshies from here on, purely because the 55 diff in the rear is 35mm wider than the standard ke20 diff. Couple that with the offset of the Superlites, my rear track hangs an inch out of the rear wheel arches and I know that will give me problem when it comes to road worthy and rego. So unless something changed the superlites will go up for sale soon maybe. The mesh has been growing on me anyhow. The exaust and dizzy regraph is on top of the priority list so hopefully by then end of the month that will be sorted. For some reason I can stop oil leaking out of the sump plug. I'm really hoping it isn't cracked around the drain hole. I'll have a look at that tomorrow....

Check your getting spark by removing your plugs and testing them against the block while turning the engine over. It could be a timing or fuelling issue. Check you dizzy cap for corrosion and the points can sometimes weld themselves shut so you may have to reset the gap or get new ones.

I can't find a great deal of information but according to wiki the 1.9L Starfire is the 173ci grey motor minus 2 cylinders. I then found this on the 202 anti-pump up lifters. They suit Holden 6 202 3.3 & 173 2.85 litre, Red Blue & Black motors including 3.3 EFI Black motors. I then found that there are 2 types of 202 lifters and both are hydraulic. One is an anti-pump lifter which gives a which gives better oil metering and prevents valve float at higher rpm and also requires adjustable rocker gear. Effictively a solid lifter but not. Then I found this.... I don't think the starfire lifters will work though, you will need to consult a shop and find out part numbers and compare lifter bores.

It wouldn't be an easy excercise and the gain would be hardly worth the effort. No one makes adapter plates for the manifold and there is a lot of pollution gear which you'd need to remove. The 4a-fc doesn't like it very much when you pull its pollution gear off. The ideal twin barrel would be a 32/36 webber or a 180 holley. You'd need to have it rejetted. What you should do is remove the head, have the cams done, extractors, big port work, get a custom intake manifold made to run a set of 40mm down draft webbers with 90 degree ram tubes sticking out of a wrx bonnet scoop. I think that may blow your budget though....

I was flicking through my Gregory's manual for the Corolla 1200. (KE2# series). In the brake section it does state there was a booster option on the Australian made vehicles. I'll scan the page as soon as I can get out to my old man's place. Can anyone else confirm or deny this?

Yes... yes it will. ;) Block and head wise that's really all you'll have to do. Standard bottom end should be good enough. It's up to you if you spend the coin on the atfermarket pistons, but there not really cheap. ARP head bolts you'll need to keep the head on. Realistically to run 20 psi through a 5k and have it last more than a month you won't get out of it overly cheap.

3k carb + 10 bakerlite flanges = tunnel ram!!!

Correct. Cos like a fat man at Rainbow Beach, they sweat. Then they go all flakey and the skin starts to sag....

almighty 4k power? i don' think that would be a problem. they modify them so they can be manual shifted, faster and smoother changes, like a powerglide kit on your dommy.