GJM85

If you remove your coil and ballast resistor and replace it with a said distributor you'll have two distributors that don't say much and no coil... :lolcry:

put the 3k thermostat housing on the 4k.

3k or 4k fly wheel is all you can use. Most 5k flywheels have a 210mm clutch face as opposed to the 180mm of the 3/4k's. They should be relatively cheap. The price you pay will be directly influenced by availability and how bad you need one.

+1 vacuum leak

This is a good thread. I wonder why it died in the arse... maybe more people should post up their 'K' motor builds! :yes:

Any idea when the timing chain was done last?

KE20 pump would be the next best thing if you can't find the ke1# item. You'll probably need to aquire a later thermostat housing though because that's where the second heater hose runs to. I purchased a 'Racer' brand ke20 water pump to suit a 3k and had no problems when bolting it onto the 5k.

SEX! It does have a look that says, "ride me big boy".

The value of something is determined by how much someone is willing to pay for it. If they are in very good condition and clean i'd say.... it's up to you! :laff:

Looks like Jaygore's old set. Good to see it's gonna still be around here. Your old school steel will come off a ke30 to ke70. They will fit. But your options are wide open. The wheels that you've got look sweet though.

Tidy ride. The front end looks the shizzle. Needs some dish, now!

It's hard to say without realy being there, but.... I had an ae92 seca. And my driveway is short and steep. Whenever parked there and it rained, the water would run down the windscreen disappear under the plastic vent thing where the wipers are and magically appear in the drivers side foot well. It turned out to be a shit windscreen installation job because once I had it replaced it didn't leak again. When new windscreens are installed your not supposed to move the vehicle for 6-12 hours or something.

Oh and once you're done and its running right, loose that pollution gear diagram... :happy:

Take it all out. You need to leave the pcv pipes. Both go from the rocker cover, one to the air cleaner and one to the base of the carby. You'll need the vac advance line that goes from your distributor to the base of the carby also. Make sure you don't take out the boost release hose that goes from your manifold to the brake booster. Block off any that run to the thermostat housing. I used a rubber end cap and hose clamp for those three. The fuel line should be standard but depending on the fitting on the webber you may need to run 3/8 fuel line from the fuel pump. Good luck.

Does it a have a blown manifold gasket?

There is a small dent next to the drain hole. I got the sump of an old 4k that was sitting around. It's just enough to prevent the gasket from sealing properly. I used double washers this time. Hopefully it works. :glare: I did manage to get the carby fixed. We found a local guy working out of his shed doing cashies. He had samples of his workmanship like a piece of 3mm alloy checker plate welded into a cast iron mower body. This guy had the skillss. He welded the piece back on inside and out then used the die grinder to smooth out the inside of the throat and the flange. I left the throttle shaft in and once he had welded it removed it and changed the seals. Just to make sure the body didn't warp to much and we couldn't get the shaft back it. It cost $70 for the repair. I'll get some pics during the week while its off.

That is a very interesting piece of information.... short shifter in my 20? I say yes.

The back end takes a lot to lock up... because when it does, it'll turn you around. I watched a gemini going through town recently. Not sure if had rear brakes only but every time he touched the brakes it just stepped out.

I paid the expert at Southside Suspension...

It is a breaker points replacement item. In a sense it makes a points dizzy electric and it looks the good to me.

The badness of over fueling. The goodness of ebay. The thrill of chopping down a dead 20m gum and not killing Dad's house. The reward for not killing the house. I've ordered some LED wedge globes for the KE20 cluster, got the custom strut brace off ebay to. I decided to take the headers off because I have decided to heat wrap them. It's going to be easier and more beneficial that making a heat sheild of sorts. That's when I found the lovely greasey carbon type substance that gets into the exaust when your over fueling and increasing the sump level. Watching U-tube videos on how to wrap the headers. To sleazy bitches. Peace

My 3rd car was a white spirit with the red stripe down the side. I got it for $250 and put a set of hectic polished jelly beans. I loved that car. :sob:

Message the seller and ask if they are anti-pump up lifters.... or buy these>>>http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CROW-Holden-Chev-6cyl-Solid-Lifters-RED-BLUE-BLACK-/160615909833?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25657449c9 This guy is selling them for $2.50 each >>>> chev lifters

1486cc 5k out of a toyota liteace will almost fall straight back in when the 3k comes out. A few little changes like the sump, water pump housing and it will still look standard.

^^^^ These bloke are doing it for a boost application. Using a dished piston 5k bottom end and a flat 4/5k top end gives a heavy compression decrease for turbos or blowers. With the difference in lifter/pushrod/head heights, a pushrod/lifter/rocker combination is required. A combination that cannot be easily aquired with the exception of the datsun/holden lifter conversion... I think you mean the solid lovers...... .....................thats how my wife loves it anyway! :yes: