GJM85

nope... single. It is the right cam gear. If you can look through the glare on that image you can see the little hole. That is the time mark. There is one on the crank gear as well. Both holes should be aligned with chain at TDC.

In my ke20 the negative terminal runs to the engine block. If I run it too the chassis the car won't start...:hmm: I believe it's because the starter motor earths through the block and that is what need the most power out of the entire car. Although I don't have a million watt stereo. ...strange things!

mixture screws out 1 full turn and idle speed screws in 1/2 a turn from first contact...

the block needs to be dipped and rebored. which in turn means oversize pistons. probably a few hundred dollars rebuild kit with pistons is about $500 timing kit is about $70 then you'll need to find a complete head, rocker gear, camshaft, lifters, pushrods, crankshaft and probably a few hundred on that. most of this stuff is quite easy to come buy. so then you look at thermostat housing, water pump, manifolds and decent carb... yeah i think you could get out of it for around 1500$. unfortunately that 5k won't be just a buy it and slap it together deal because of the condition, missing components and the unknown history of the engine. i'm not trying to turn you off the 5k. i'd say buy it and start collecting bits and getting things done. as long as your 3k is still in the car and running, what do you have to lose. I reckon buy a running 4k as well as the 5k because a great many parts will be found there.

OK! How much money have you got to spend? If you want the 5k in your car asap you'll need about 1500$. If you can wait, buy the block and start collecting bits. The engine is a deep dish 5k, i'd guess it's hydraulic lifters cand camshaft. You'll want a rebuild kit to suit, a guess 1988 liteace(comes with bearings and gaskets), also a new timing kit. The block needs to be dipped and probably rebored. A 4k crank will fit with the 5k rods. Get a 4k-c head with valves and rocker assembly. Get it it reconditioed if itneeds it. Get a 4k camshaft. Then, source datsun a12 motor pushrods and holden solid lifters (ebay). That will get the engine together. Carby and exaust is up to you. As are anyperformance mods you choose. If your serious about spending some coin and getting this thing in your car, get it to an engine builder but expect to wait months. Or talk to us and build it youself.

Did you think about cutting hoops? :wink:

clockwise will close off the air mixture. Anti" will increase the mixture.

I'd still be concerned with over fuelling. Sometimes what appears to be a lean condition is actually rich. The 4k ran on one carby, the 3k-b ran on two. It's about manifold vacuum. A 3k moves, let's say 133cfm and the 4k moves 148cfm. The thottle body size hasn't increased so air flow is restricted at idle increasing maniflod vacuum. The same amount of air will pass through the carb but the extra vacuum draws on the fuel delivery system increasing the mixture to a rich condition. So yes the air mixture would be the problem. You really should get the car on a dyno, but... Check for vacuum leaks firstly. Are all vacuum lines connected? Dizzy? PCV? Wind the air mixtures in until they seat, very softly. Wind them 1/2 a turn out Wind the idle speed screws out and then back in until they contact the throttle linkage. Start the engine. If it idles, you're getting somewhere.

Those little fuel pumps move more than enough fuel. It could be over fueling. The 3k-b engine came with twin carbs and produced more power than a standard 4k engine due to a better camshaft, larger intake ports and a higher compression ratio....

Yeah that's some critical info. Same with the camshaft. If it's a deep dish piston 5k it could have a solid or hydraulic lifter camshaft and without the lifters, pushrods or rocker assembly it will be hard to tell. I reckon you should ask some questions... like why does this 5k have no top end. You said it was from a member... any chance you can tell us who your buying it from?

c... c... ca... camshaft! ...bless you!

There's a few options to run with... I found the 3k carb is too small for my hot 5k though others have made it work. It all depends on what your getting with the 5k and what you have under your bonnet. what does the 5k come with? crank, conrods, camshaft, lifters, pushrods? Or just a block? We can tell you what you need if you can tell us what you've got... :happy:

To avoid confusion among 5k pistons we call them shallow and/or deep dish pistons. True flat tops are only found in the 3 and 4k engines. Some 4k's had deep dish pistons as well.

That is correct Stu! ACL went into administration in '09 but was bailed out with a $7,000,000 package from the government, toyota and ford to prevent the losses of thousands of jobs in car manfacturing production lines. The failing company was recently purchased by Repco where production was moved overseas...

For average power you'll probably need to drop a 4 or 5k in it. Assuming its standard those old 3k's aren't good for much more than low and slow. There are usually decent engines goig up for sale on here anyhow!

standard wheels are 12inx5.5in and 4x110pcd (stud pattern)

boostcruising? Put the matches down...

Nason Engine Parts do them in standard, 20thou(.50 OVER) and 40thou(1.00 OVER). Here's there online catalog - Nason Engine Parts- Online Catalog- Toyota 5k I've got the 20thou or .5mm oversize in my ke20. I sourced them though AutoPro & cost $180.

If the mixture screw is less than half a turn out at lean best idle it indicates a smaller idler jet is required. If the mixture screw is more than 1 & 1/2 turn out it indicates a laarger idler jet is required. Though often, what appears to be a lean condition turns out to be a rich condition. Check your plugs. If they are black and sooty, it's rich. Is your carb boost prepped, or boxed inside a plenum? Or does it have a boost reference line to the fuel bowl?

Yeah... in Backwardsland where i'm the King, Rolla drivers are my knights and all other fall under my sword!!! Rear engine funny ke70 with a blown V12... I think they'd use this for pre-facial reco surgery!

Just a storage update so I remember what this thing is made of. Engine: Toyota 5k 1486cc with 0.020" overbore (1566cc) ACL bearing and gasket kit 4k sump Shimmed oil pump 4k crankshaft with Nachi spigot 5k conrods Nason 0.50mm oversize pistons (shallow dish) Tighe 104 camshaft (25/65 int/ex, 270 adv dur, 0.423" valve lift, solid grind) Holded 202 anti-pump lifters Datsun A12 light weight solid pushrods 4k adjustable rocker gear Pro- Torque twin timing kit 4k-c head with port and polish 4k valves with 3 face reseat 5k valve springs 3k bigport manifold (carb flange machine to suit adapter plate) Redline adapter plate Weber 38/38 Sports Redline 9in air cleaner Standard fuel system with 3/8" fuel lines Hurricane 4-1 shorty extractors (wrapped) 2" mandrel exaust with two glass pack mufflers (Lukey front & Super Cat back) 10 cell Super Charge battery 4k alternator and starter Aftermarket alternator regulator MSD Streetfire CD Igntion control GT40 coil 3k breaker points adjustable distributor Bosch Super Plus cold plugs Racer water pump & thermostat housing, plastic fan & 3k radiator KE20 driver side & KE30 passenger side engine mounts Drivetrain: Refaced 4k flywheel Exedy HD Sports Tuff clutch KE70 5 speed box Shortened KE55 sedan tailshaft KE55 Borg Warner diff (4:11) with KE20 spring mounts Suspension/Brakes/Steering: Nolathane bushes- control arms, sway bar Three Five tie rods ends, pitman arm and idler arm Shortened KE20 struts Recoiled 55mm King Springs Boges VW Golf mkII short stroke inserts and bumb stops KE70 backing plates, machined rotors, Girlock calipers, Bendix pads KE55 leaf springs an Boges KE55 rear shock absorbers 50mm lowering blocks KE55 229mm rear drums with Bendix shoes KE20 brake master cylinder and KE20 handbrake cables Rolling stock/Body: 13x5.5 Cheviot mesh Yokohama 175/70 Blue star saffire paint by MSR Kustoms Seal kit by Phils Rotories KE25 grill Original glass Stereo: JVC 50x4 mosfet head unit JVC 290 watt 6x9's Interior is stock also... :yes: Do you think I need a modplate?

Yeah it's a deep dish... You can counter this buy fitting a 4k head. But then you need the lifters and pushrods to suit. This is where the chev lifter and datsun pushrod comes in! Does this engine have adjustable rocker gear?

Doesn't look like it's been running. But would be epic.....

That is a very neat donk hole. Like a $1 cheese burger it looks "made to go".

We made one on the lathe + duck tape. :cool: