GJM85

So i'm completely dumb founded on what is wrong with my ke20. I've gone to all extremes trying get this thing sorted but still no cigar. This a 5k, 4k head, solid lift conversion. The car runs and free revs very well. As soon as you drive it and put load on the motor it just coughs and farts. It has a lot of blow back through the carb. We've checked the cam and it appears to be spot on. We've set the time from 6 - 30 degrees and it's always the same problem. I've had a stock 3k carb, twin sidedrafts, a weber and now a rejetted 4k and it's always the same probl.. no power under load. I'm using a stock 3k points dizzy with a MSD Streetfire CD ignition and the cam is a Tighe 104. (270 adv duration, 25/65, "423 valve lift). Currently using a depolutionised 4k carb with 153pri/162sec mains, .80 idle. There is definately no vacuum leaks. Do I just need to regraph the dizzy or could the cam still be out? Any ideas? because i'm all out...

So my old man went right through the gearbox and it seems ok. Turns out I never put any oil in it. :dippie: So after doing 40km with a oilless k50, I won't be mentioning that again. Giving up on the 38 weber for now due to air speed or lack of and it'll cost me a bit to much to rejet and change the aux venturis, so i've spent the last couple of days working on a 4k carb from a ke55. I've removed all the pollution gear, bunged off the vacuum ports, cleaned and put a reuild kit through it. I have a 3k carb and a late ke70 carb for spares and comparison as well. The jet sizes are as follows (pri/sec). ke20 3k - 102/162 ke55 4k - 108/153 ke70 4k - 106/153 I'm going to use the 162 as a secondary and i'll drill the 102 out to 125 for the primary. Here's some pics of my makeshifft workshop, the jets and the moded 4k carb.

It's the same as a 32/36 but it has no choke, synchonised throttles and it came jetted to suit a 2.5 litre. All I've changed is the main jets from 145 to 125. But I can change them back.

It sounds like its running to lean. If you want i'd be happy to swap my recoed 38/38 synchronous for your 32/36 progressive. I think its just too big for my 5k as the weber book my dad has says its generically jetted to suite a 2.5L and the inner venturis are not interchangable. I bought it through recarb in september. We've fiddled with the jet sizes and it still doesn't like to play ball.

How much do you want for the gearbox man? I'm interested for sure.

Well it's been 3 weeks and I picked the 20 up today. Drove it home with a permit to move from the RTA. After being told it's idling a lot better, the carb has been tuned and the dizzy and timing all redone, I paid up and hit the road. I took it real easy on the gas and didn't give it any boot till about half way home and HOLY SHIT! The car runs worse than before. The timing was set to 5 degrees and the little plastic cap of the dizzy was gone. Inspecting the carb, no jets have been changed at all. The engine bay is completely covered in water marks, like the bonnet was left open in the rain. There was some type of hydraulic oil spilt on the back window and boot. There is overspray of some sort all around the car, like someone has degreased a gear box right next to it. 3 weeks. $224 for timing, carb tuning and AFR reading(for which I got no results). I paid $10 for carby cleaner, which they used on a brand new carby, and I paid $50 for them to run it on the dyno. The gave me the results of that! 44.2rwhp and a max speed of 127k/ph. I am so pissed off.... the whole automotive industry is a f@$king shamozzel! I'm going to shit on their name all over cyberland! Southside Dyno :n: :n: :n: Also my gearbox is f@$ked. Discovered it whines its head off in 5th gear, and rattles on deceleration. Under acceleration seems fine. Some people are just so head f@$ked they'll smile and look you in the eye when they sell you a gearbox they know it f@$ked. I've still got the original 4 speed but i'm not sure if it'll work with a shortened 55 tailshaft. If you know of a good 5 speed, hit me up.

You should search the intergoogle for info on your car. Ebay is good for buying, selling & getting ripped off.

sounds like fuel cut out to me.... ECU.

i've got a 5k hydro cam reground to suite holden solid lifters. (25/65)270 adv dur & .423" valve lift. It doesn't sound lumpy at idle. Effectivley a duration of 30/70 is classified as a "mild cam". My car has been at the dyno shop for almost 2 weeks and i'm getting worried. Can't wait to see what my little power house will make. Read this. You will understand much....Degreeing

Next time, try and race a daewoo, not a falcodore....

Booked in at Southside Dyno for tomorrow! Super long time coming! I'll post a dyno sheet and carb jetting when it comes home...

the bolt shop.... 100mm metric fine thread. p.s. there about $7.00 each.

Bottom end is dynamically balanced, running 9.6:1 comp. The cams run 8mm(.3")valve lift in and out.

6200rpm.

Earth strap runs to the dizzy bolt... is that normal? Also has a bigport maniflod. FTW!

It's gonna come down to the cam and springs ultimately. The bottom end is built like a small block chev... free reving a stock 4k will ping out to 8000. Put load on it and you'll be lucky to see 6500. N/A a cam with big overlap will rev a lot further as the scavenging effect takes over the flow of gases. Blown/turbo it comes down to home much boost it will take. If racing i'd be shifting when the engine reaches peak. No sense in just winding it out unless you're looking for top speed.

Just put the stock 5k in it. You're intentions don't seem too responsible, so keep it simple. No need to invest time and money in something you'll probably drift into a tree or maybe even some unsuspecting nanna on her way home from the fruit market....

ingenuity! +1

Lifters is your problem, i reckon. The seat depth of the 3f lifter must be less than the holden lifter. You need pushrods out of a solid lifter 5k, which are 150mm not 156mm. I used 202 anti pump lifters with a12 rods and didn't have a problem.

Straight through muffler... I've got two!

I spent weeks chasing a12 pushrods. The problem is no one who's got some knows we want them... I purchased new lightweight items from Egay US. They measure 156mm. K Motor Pushrod Collaboration

You need those little spikey washers. They bur in and should stop them nuts coming loose.

I bought a pro torque timing kit for my 5k and it had no marks on the chain. Just had to use a straight edge too make sure the gears are aligned correctly when you put it on.