GJM85

Caught a glimse of the best flowing exaust I've seen since... well ever. Twin 4 inch cannons on a stocker camry. The best part! It was auto and driven by Big Bertha herself. Sounded like a swarm of boo-bees invading the Land of Milk and Honey. :lolcry:

Check for a build up of dirt and grimy crap on the spring of the accelerator pedal. Where is mounts to the floor. Give it a bath in wd40. It could also be a frayed cable inside the black part. That will stick it good. Usually caused by a kink in the line.

I've done it! The spring mounts on the 55 diff are about 25-30mm wider so your springs twist inwards. The overall wheel track is about 35mm wider also. You'll have to lose the swaybar because there is nowhere to mount it on the ke20 body. The drum brakes of the 55 BW diff are much bigger than the 20 drums and have a different stud pattern. 55-4x114.3. 20-4x110. The shock absorbers of the 30/55 mount to the lower spring plate and on the 20 diff the mount to the spring mount, so shock absorber length becomes an issue when you use lowering blocks. The final issue you will encounter will be the tailshaft as the rear yokes are different. Square for the 20 diff and round for the 55 diff. I found a 55 tailshaft and had to shorten it 25mm. It is a much thick tailshaft but its lighter. You may encounter a problem where the 55 tailshaft won't fit into a ke20 gearbox. I didn't have that problem as I used a ke70 5 speed. It resulted in cutting the spring mounts off the two diffs and rewelding the 20 spring mounts on the 55 diff. This allows you to set the springs mounts in about 15mm and you can also use either 55 or 20 rear shocks. You may have issues with the brakes as the standard ke20 master cylinder struggles to move enough fluid to expand the rear brake shoes enough for a good stop. Cheers GJM85

A previously stated... crow cams double valve sprins, I'm running a cam with 0.423" lift with standard 5k springs which are about 1/2 a coil taller than 4k springs. Port mactching is where the intake and/or exaust ports of the cylinder head are machined out to match the ports of the intake manifold and/or extractors. The creates a more flow of gases in and out of the engine. "how do you adjust compression ??" :bash: I'll let someone else answer that.

Ke25 grill with a ke30 badge

You want PS with that?

Do they even make adjustable cam gears for k motors? Because that would be cool. But otherwise, I plan on pulling taking the 4 front sump bolts out along with the radiator and grill next week end. I can get the cam gear off with taking the cam out, can't I? If I pull the harmonic balancer, timing cover then the crank gear and timing chain. I'll try and get the gaskets this week. I think I'll scribe a line right through the centre of the gear. Then i'll drill a line 177.5 degrees from the original locating hole. If it doesn't work... I will be gutted and may consider setting it of FIRE!!!

All the electrics are new. The head was off in September when I changed the pistons. The head gasket was fine then and it was suffering with this problem before. I can't help but feel that this 5 degrees is my problem and the reason I can't get the timing right. I've addressed every other possibility...

Yah when I had the big 38/38 on it once it got over about 3000rpm it really started to go, but backing off for corners and getting going again was nothing but trouble. Here's my interpretation of the cam in microsoft paint. First how it should function. Second how it is functioning. Oh, and there's lunch...

I got out to my dad's where the 20 is today and had fiddle... I cranked the engine around to TDC #4. Using a razor blade I leveled the valve retainers of #1 to check the overlap of the cam. This is what I found. To me the cam appears to be about 5 degrees retarded. Could this be the cause of my problems? I ask because 5 degrees on the crank is only 2.5 degrees on the cam or 1/4 of a tooth.

That is f@$king cool!

mazda 929 hardtop. my old man's got an '87 2 door with the FET 2.0L turbo. LSD, IRS and rear wheel disc....

You say your new to this, yeah? Unless there's some serious scratching or ring wear in the bore you may get away with just a good hone.

In fact if the above was the case just 1 tooth would mean on the camshaft overlap the intake valve would be opening 45 degrees before tdc and the exaust valve would close at 5 degrees after tdc. Because 1 tooth on the cam is equal to 20 crankshaft degrees. This would also be why it idles best a 20 degrees of timing... Now why would the exaust gases choose to leave the intake? Because once the manifold vacuum drops below the exaust back pressure than the gases will naturally take the easist exit. That is why the blow back only occurs under thottle.

no, 4-1 wrapped headers and a 2" system

If the cam was installed just 1 tooth advanced then the cam would be functioning with corked durations. On the camshaft overlap the intake valve would be opening 35 degrees before tdc and the exaust valve would close at 15 degrees after tdc. This means at tdc between exaust and intake the intake valve is further open than exaust valve. The uneven overlap could be causing exaust gases to be forced back through the intake causing the blow back. NB: when the blow back occurs it is not ignited(flash back).

yep, 20 degrees of crankshaft rotation. What if the blow back is occuring on the overlap of the cam? The 50 degrees of crankshaft rotation that both valves are open... between the exaust stroke and intake stroke.

That is wierd...

Yeah it's never run right since it was assembled. This is the first engine i've ever built and I thought I had it nailed. Yeah it blows back out the carb. Which makes me think its sparking on the intake stroke but with the timing spot on it continues. Thus leaving the camshaft... :(

Yeah the cam was run in. I'm thinking the cam needs degreeing. I've touched all other bases I think. It made 44.2hp on the dyno so i'd say it has a pretty serious power deficiancy aswell as the blow back. If it is ignition i'd be really surprised. The setup is a GT40, no resistor, the CD multi spark ignition and the 3k dizzy. I've tried 3 others before the CD went in, 2 electronic and 1 points dizzy. Same problem. The spark in this thing would kill a small child.

had an idle problem all week end. I couldn't get the idle below 1200rpm with out it dieing in the arse. With the 4k carb I went from got a 49 idle to an 80. And the mains went from 108/153 to 153/162. Still wasn't running rich but fuel flows out of the auxillary venturi at idle as a mist. That drip you've got there tells me theres something wrong with the emulsion tubes/air correctors.

That's interesting, though i didn't get any paper with my cam. Too bad I din't get a rollmaster timing kit.

It feeds through in the same hole as the rest of the lume, runs around the strut tower, behind the battery and along the under side of the rad mount.

Yeah just standard stuff there.

Yeah i've still got the condensor on the dizzy. I might swap it with a spare I have. See if it makes a difference. I don't believe there is mark on the camshaft. I just installed it as standard. The last compression test I did ranged from 140 to 170 psi. My old man reckons I should take the cam out and put a stocker back in and see what happens, but i'm really not down with that.