GJM85

You'd be surprised to discover the standard intake is the best. It was designed for maximum efficiency relating to the engines performance. A K&N air filter to replace the standard one is probably the best you can do.

KE30: two-door/four-door sedan KE35: two-door hardtop coupé KE38: three-door van, five-door wagon wagon KE55: two-door hardtop coupé, four-door sedan

Just did a little tune up and took it for a blat round the street. Man its noice to drive. Just pulls along nicely from a stand still too about 4 grand. The tacho stops working there so I don't give it anymore. Either need to source a MSD tach adapter or lose it all together. Half my street is a real steep hill but in 3rd gear, not a problem. I found the standard valve clearances of .20mm & .25mm as recommended in the gregories manual is a bit slack and noisey. .12mm & .15mm sounds perfect. The plugs appear to be perfect. So i'm very happy with the a/f mixture. 125 pri & 162 sec, 79 idle. Timings at a neat 10 degrees. I'm a little concerned about the Streetfire Ignition. I might take it out and try the electronic dizzy again. But I do like the old 3k dizzy. It's not really about perfomance anymore. It's about the drive and a part from the home made exaust, its a ʞ©$ɟin nice 'n' easy one.

vinyl paint works great! just don't buy the really cheap stuff.

My 5k sounds like a lifter is getting air off a cam lobe. Little ʞ©$ɟ won't shut up till I give it gusto!

Pictures of epic progress speak volumes! Short descriptive paragraphs should complement them. Good luck mate!

first gear, top end, 30 pounds, through a lake.... :cool:

Keep at it bud! 20 POWER!

:rocknroll: ʞ©$ɟenyes!

Thanks for the kind words mate! Not sure how i'm going to handle this just yet. The lowering blocks staying for now. But the chassis has been organised for next week. The dude was an uber tight arse. Had a winge about the structural work that had been done before I got the car. Had a winge about my home made exaust, The little pod thing on the rocker cover that "should run to the air cleaner". It is a ʞ©$ɟing air cleaner! Didn't like the 5k because its not a standard replacement engine or equivelant replacement. Apparently if I put the 4k back in, with which it was originally registered with, it would still need to be engineered. It's a good thing he didn't charge me.

ke30/55 front brakes, calipers and backing plates can work with ke20 stub axels if you use the ke20 inner and ke30/55 outer wheel bearing. There are clearance issues with ke70 stuff. Ke30/55 shocks can be used in the rear end. The ke70 and ae86 rear ends are worlds apart compared to the ke20 rear end.

if the engine isn't making any "ʞ©$ɟ me" kind of noises then i'd say there's no issue with the valve train. if you get excessive blow back through the carb or back firing it could be your lifter preload, cam timing or ignition timing. You really need to put the car under load (like driving it) to see what it does. if it runs smooth, no back firing or coughing but won't iddle then it's likely to be the carband/or a major vacuum leak. an overly rich or lean idle jet will not prevent a car from idling. Unless its very extreme. Too ricch black smoke, Too lean goes pop! I hope really hope you are confident with your cam timing.

No dice. They want a mod plate for the lowering blocks and theres spot of rust in the chassis that needs to be plated.

road worthy tomorrow...... :hmm: Hoping for the best.

Oh yeah. I'm just really special.... :yes: Ok then someone just needs to get the original cam specs then your set. :wink: But good luck with that.

If I had a vernier I would check the lobe height on the 104 i've got in the garage. Then you could check the lobe height of a stocker and get the difference. You could then take that off the head. I only say that because nobody knows the original specs of a stock camshaft....

Shit if where drawing pictures. Here's one I made a while ago!

Looks really neat. Good work. I'm diggin the slant.

Stereo is all finished plus a fire extinguisher. Got an accelerator pedal now too! Clean windows, carpet and car. Still need an alternator. Are they esay enough to rebush yourself?

I saw the difference in height between the stock and the 104 cams not too long ago. It is quite substantial. As in, almost half of the adjustment available. Also you'd have a bitch of a time find the correct pustrod length to use. The hydro rods have balls on both ends. This whole thing is why we use the holden/datsun combo.

I wouldn't have a clue. I never took note, of all the times i've pulled the ʞ©$ɟer out. Has red around the outer part. Can't see much more than that.

Alternator is on its way out. If you've got a decent one hit me up, pretty please. :wink: $

The 104 doesn't have a lumpy idle.

I had the same problem with Bursons up here in QLD. Gave them the part number and what book to look in. Fat #unt didn't even get off his chair when I went to the service counter. He just 'waved' me over. "Don't have that in my system. Don't have that catalogue either. I can get the 2 peice ones....it'll take 3 days" ʞ©$ɟ you guy! AutoOne found one, but it took a week. Gasmiser Superseal HM34. Gets all sticky when it gets hot and glues itself good. I am find it harder and harder to get anything that isn't 'stock items' out of any part suppleier these days. Lazy ʞ©$ɟers.