GJM85

Yeah. Borg Warner diffs are. Ratio differs between manual and autos.

The shocks mount to the spring mount on the ke20 and to the lower spring plate in the 30/55. This is a problem which can only be rectified by cutting the spring mount off the ke20 diff and welding it into place on the 30/55 diff. If you do this you can use either shock reset springs or not. And I'm not sure if there is a difference between the 30 & 55 rotor and backing plates. I don't see why there would be.

Some guys on here reset their leaf springs themselves so I think someone on here could help you with that. As for the ke30/55 brakes. Yes its the 114 pattern and it is very easy to do. You just have to redrill the 30 backing plate to suit the 20's stub axle then the rest just goes straight on. Remember you still have to use the ke20 inner wheel bearing and the 30/55 out bearing.

Cut and weld the ke20 spring mounts onto a ke30-55 diff. It will give you big rear brakes but increase your real wheel track by 35mm. Diff ratio is the same at 4.111:1 Or have ke30-55 rear axles shortened and they should fit into a ke20 borg warner diff housing along with the rear brakes. You can use ke55 rear shocks on a ke20 diff then have your leaf spring reset with an extra leaf or just lowering blocks. The front is a different story. Some just use the 35mm King springs and standard strut inserts. Other fit coil overs. I had my struts shortened and sleaved to fit VW Golf MK1 short stroke inserts, bump stops and 55mm recoiled King springs. The brakes are ke70 backing plates, front rotors and girlock calipers using ke20 inner wheel bearing and ke70 outer wheel bearing. It is advisable to use ke30 backing plates, rotors and outer bearing as the ke70 rotors need to be machined a bit as they don't align with the caliper properly on the ke20 stub axle.

The car brakes fine but is very rear bias. There are no leaks inside or out. Its running ke70 rotors, girlock calipers and ke55 229mm rear drums. Ive always used dot 4 in all my cars. In fact I havent even seen dot 3 on the shelf in years.

So your looking for a water port for the intake manifold.

Likely difference is one head may have come a twin carb 3k-b and the other off a 3k big port with the single carb. Check for differences in the welsh plugs at the back of the head maybe. I doubt there is any real difference, though.

Sure did.

Yeah man. Not much more stressful than wondering if your going straight though the next red light or not.

Might be time to look at a replacement maybe. Still scratching my head over what would have done that to the brake fluid though.

Everything is pretty much new as of just over a year ago. It all seems ok I hope.

Nope. Nothing under the pedal. Does this prevent the high stiff pedal?

My brakes have been gradually getting softer over the past week so I decided to drain the lines and fill it with fresh fluid. This is the mud that came out. I filled it all back up with Response Super Dot 4 and bled it the usual way. The pedal is now rock solid. It brakes as it should but me thinks this stiff pedal ain't right. Does anyone know why this could be?

Thanks phil. That wagon looks pretty sweet on the road too. Were you with him trev?

Spotted Phil and his black wags fanging outa Beaudesert. I think he saw me too.

My old stewart warner tacho kicked the bucket the other day and needs to see a doctor so graphing the curve isnt going to be easy at the moment. Have you seen how much even a shit tacho is lately?

There was a neat ke70 in the toe n show on saturday. Ridgey didge.

I did actualy read this thread last night and decided to pull the dizzy back out. Just to recap I removed the original heavy springs and swapped them with the 3k springs which felt far lighter. As Altezza may have discovered it caused the mechanical advance to max out to early and rpm gain becomes flat. After reading this thread I put one of the stronger springs back in and kept the spring with the elongated eye from the 3k dizzy. Now its like a 2 stage advance where early in you get a fast increase with the lightly sprung weight whilst the heavier spring prevents the weights from maxing out and gives a steadier increase in the top end.

You need holden lifters. Pretty sure you want the 186 solids or 202 but they are usually anti pump hydraulic lifters. Thats actually what ive got and can say they work fine with solid cam. The pushrods your looking for are from a datsun A12 motor. Nb: this combination wont work unless you use a 4k or 5k shallow piston head which will mean you will also need the shallow pistons. There is a 6mm difference in head heights which affects the pushrod length.

I heard a whisper in the wind about Holden 186 roller rockers fitting...

Your going to need the original gear. Probably why the last guy didn't finish it.

Pretty sure its spot welded to firewall.

I took the my cdi unit out today because I got the electronic dizzy I had laying around working after a once over. Electronic dizzy is far better than the cdi with points dizzy. Far far better. I also took the springs out of the 3k dizzy and swapped them into the electronic one. They were a little bit different in size and not sure if there was a great deal of gain from doing so.

If you have a 5k with deep dished pistons you'll need a 5k head with a shallow combustion chamber. You will also need the lifters and pushrods to suit. If you want to use a 4k head you'll have to get the shallow dished pistons. This will also allow you to use the chev lifter and datsun a12 pushrod combination.