GJM85

Firing order is 1342. Before you pull the dizzy out... Looking into the engine bay, the rightest frontest :) terminal on the dizzy is number 1 and they go round.in the above order. Score a mark into the dizzy body using that number 1 terminal. This is your tdc mark. Set the crank timing mark to zero. Check the dizzy rotor is in the general direction of that number 1 terminal. Pull the dizzy out and drop it back in until you can get the rotor to line up with that score mark and you should still have adjustment both ways. It can be tricky and you'll need a long flat head screwdriver to turn the oil pump so the key on the dizzy drops in properly.

I'm thinking your dizzy is a tooth out.

Is the point gap correct? Should be 0.45mm Timing? 8-10 deg advance When the car is running feel around the terminals of the distributor cap. If you get shocked its a cracked cap.

HIJACK! Just had this fall into my lap. I have since pulled it down to find out what's in it. And wasn't that a surprise. Basically it is... 1966 Windsor 289 bored .060" to 297 cubic inches. ACL Race Series pistons with chromoly rings Big ʞ©$ɟing chrome sump Rollmaster timing kit Stage 2 Heatseeker cam Ported heads with 302 stainless steel valves, threaded rocker studs and double valve springs Edelbrock F4B intake manifold Holley 600 with spacer plate. Modified Boss 302 dizzy. It's really clean and hasn't seen a great deal of milage. From what I've heard it spent 2 years in the car and then 7 years on the garage floor. So i'm just getting a gasket set and slapping it back together. Needs a dipstick, fuel pump plugs and leads and a longer oil pickup. Thermostat housing also.

If by tabs you mean spring mounts and your diff is 9mm off centre then this is a problem and the car wont just straighten itself out. You'll be crabbing it down the road and it'll bounce all over the place at high speed.

Had mine machined out. Wasn't expensive.

there is a 95% chance its a vacuum leak. Broken vac hose or leaky manifold gasket.

Cheers Jose. I do love this car. I've bought a Redline box air cleaner to replace the Redline 9inch hat that has begun cracking. The box is way better quality. Came with a thick cork gasket, the steel farf stronger also. Now running an electronic dizzy and a few other changes here and there. Woot! Woot!

Unfortunately there isn't a great deal that can be done to these engines without some serious coin. You can port the head by all means, but the runners on the intake plennum should be port matched. Already being a 16valve engine, they actually flow quite well already. Smaller ports give a higher intake velocity so porting the head may not be beneficial unless other areas are modified. Extractors and exaust, injectors, larger throttle body maybe, cams would help a lot too. Not sure if anyones looked at it but perhaps some of the 7afe intake gear fits.

I've bought a square redline air cleaner from the egay as it comes with the gasket and pcv fittings. $62. Has a paper filter unfortunately. When it needs replacing i'll try and get a cotton k&n type filter for it. The k&n types I saw on ebay are 68mm in height, where others are only 55mm and I have only 65mm between the top of the carb and my strut brace. Thus my decision was made for me.

I've got a ke20 5k. Heat wrapped extractors and a 2in system straight through to a 18inch Super Cat glass pack with a chrome angle cut tip. Not that loud, but everyone knows when your giving it daboot.

I have a Redline 9inch air cleaner on my 32/36 DGV The round chrome ones. The base plate has started cracking which is apparently a common occurence with these filters. I prefer the look of these over others though i'm looking at a new filter, either a Ramflo or one of those square ones with either 2 inch or 2-1/2 inch cotton guaze washable type filter. Just after some insight as to which air cleaner, if any is better or if you know of any other option out there.

I dunno about that. My 20 is pretty sticky when flat footing 3rd though zeroundybouts. In the wet, sticky is not in its vocabulary though and it does actually require a little concerntration not to go strafing out of some corners.

I took the donk apart. I found that the timing marks weren't perfectly aligned when I put a straight line across the cam, timing marks and crank centres. Even if your cam does need dialing in you can still align these marks and be well off.

Didnt take measuring the bore seriously and put standard pistons in an 20 thou over bore (0.5mm). From memory my bore was 81.2mm where standard was 80.5mm. It doesnt sound like a lot but it works out as 20cc per cylinder. My 5k is actually 1566cc. As for the reving issue your going to want to look at cam timing. I had the same cam as you and it was also a tooth out.

The bolt was too short... :P

Does it sound like this?

hehehe.... he said bent shaft.

They've been stored for some time at full extension. New shocks come strapped for a reason.

JONO! Just finish what your doing GUY! Stick to the PLAN!

farked...

I still don't understand this negative camber fad... ... guy ask question, not for camber adjustable... Formula- (A) tread on track+brakes>camber+rice+Drift sticker

That is such a cereal ironical cliché coming from you on this forum....

http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page