GJM85

What type of distributor are you using? Dizzy timing is most likely out. Turn crank to top dead centre on cylinder 1 compression stroke. Firing order is 1342. Dizzy rotor should line up with the number 1 post on the dizzy cap which if installed correctly will be the post closest to the thermostat housing or oil cap.

So I put a kit through the weber and its made a big difference in respone and economy. Happy with that. I had some electrical issues last week which have been sorted. Today I modified a standard bakerlite base plate from a stock carby to fit between the manifold and the adapter plate. Why, you ask? To reduce heat tranfer to the weber, which in theory should reduce fuel evapouration, increase economy and increase performance. It was easy enough and seems have yielded good results with the fuel bowl feeling cool to touch after a 5km drive. I can also now use the original pcv ventilation system running to the base plate instead of the no.1 intake runner. I machined out the bakerlite plate to suit the manifold and removed a few areas off the lower plate of the adapter to clear the pvc stem and the heat shield.

Where do we go? Nobody knows... Meet at Beenleigh at 9:00am, throw down a refephuck (reference index/map)and pick a root (route/course). as windy as possible.

It's good because you ain't gotta work....

Monday... The Good Monday Cruise....

I took the beast to the auto electricians yesterday. They fixed it with in a half hour. Bad earth. The body to engine block strap was old and rustic and wasn't carrying current well. So there you go. A bad earth will mess all your shit up. Today I replaced the alternator to battery wire and rectumfied my charge light issue. Charge signal went from 13.75 volts at idle to 13.98 volts at idle. Under full load with stereo, hazards, head lights, high beam, thermo fan, brake lights and wipers the battery output fluctuates between 11 and 12.9 volts, Hooray!

... Not entirely sure. One thing to look at is pin height.

I wired in a 4 point relay..... It does the same thing... Buzzes like mad. This is just farked. I have absolutely no idea what the ʞ©$ɟ is going on....... I'm looking at the alternator again. I've heard you can get all sorts of problems from there.

The guts... Is it a relay?

Woot woot!

Well.... It's not the alternator. The 20 was taken by the gremlins this afternoon. Taken.... I tried to use the wipers on the way home fro work and it all went to hell. The wipers stopped half stroke and now there gone. I've lost head lights, the temp gauge goes off the dial and the fuel gauge stays at half even though there is ʞ©$ɟ all in the tank. I've lost indicators on the dash aswell as the high beam alert light. The high beam switch causes the little black box to buzz it's had off. When I turn the wipers on, the dash illumination comes on. When I disconnect the wiper switch the illumination goes away and I get my indicator dash lights back but nothing else. The headlight switch turns the ignition on and I get charge light and oil light but to head lights except parkers no tail lights.... Now the little black box. This relay is unknown.... I believe it's a head light relay. AutoOne couldn't tell me either could the auto leccy. It buzzes like crazy if I pull the high beam on. I've pulled it apart and if I hold the switch on it triggers the ignition and I get dash lights, thermo fan and the tachometer just start going crazy.... I think this black box is my blight. The alternator is putting out 13.75 volts at idle. A three pronged relay. Where the hell can I find one....

I might pull it out this weekend and check the brushes and windings. Any idea where I can get new brushes? The charge light comes on as a dull glow and gets brighter as revs increase. I've noticed auxiliaries connected to the battery such as the stereo, tachometer and thermo fan don't trigger the charge light. I ay need to look around for another alternator.

Have you bled the system? Start with the wheel furthest from the master and work toward it.

If its popping and farting when you take off its possibly leaning out in the progressive circuit or primary main. The first thing i'd look at is the accelerator pump. Check what size your main jets are also. A stock 4k should run 106 or 108 primary main jet and a 153 secondary main. If your running a fair amount of compression with a shaved head and a decent exhaust the primary main jet may need to be enlarged. The progressive circuit of your carburettor is a series of tiny holes just above the primary throttle plate fed from the idle cicuit. Fuel is drawn through these holes as rpm increases from idle to around 1500rpm where the main circuit takes over. You need to make sure these holes are clean of any carbon build up as well as the idle jet.

It's a 5k with a standard k motor alternator, 480 CCA battery. I've had the alternator tested about 8 months ago. Has a new regulator also. The first issue has been an on going one. With headlights on, the charge light comes on when I use other accessories. (ie. reverse lights, indicators or wipers). This hasn't bothered me so much as they're only on for a short time. The second is, at high speed (85mph/4500rpm onwards) the charge light begins to glow. Any ideas?

Looks good from afar but afar from good. Just drive it.... Love it.

That shit needs to be tig welded by a pro... Tack around the rim in the professional fashion. Thn weld and quench, weld and quench.

Have you replaced the sender? There's a possibility its an original 42 year old piece of corroded brass your counting on.

Suspension & steering.... shudder

Not sure if 3k pistons can get any more flat top than they already are... If your looking at increasing compression just get the head shave a bit.

I'm not entirely sure what's involved in that particular conversion, but why are you converting to right hand drive exactly?

i'm still interested

I have rectified the issue.... I bought bulk diodes to help out fellow members, so if your having issues with your tacho there'll be a for sale thread shortly.

Yeah I don't have of the old coil and stuff anymore. Just read another thread on here. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/44291-after-market-tacho-not-accurate-reads-double/ Apparently should have a rectifier diode on the signal wire.

Thanks for the good feed back mate. I've tried running a 135 & 140 mains and it leans out. It's running we'll with 145 & 150 mains, 165 & 160 airs. She gets pretty thirsty when you get into it but she gets up and goes. I've got a new carby kit coming because the power valve is a bit gritty and the accelerator pump pushes fuel out through the top hat gasket.