GJM85

Cam followers in the tappets. Id say one has ʞ©$ɟed out. The are hydraulic lifters.

I think you'll find it difficult to actually find inferior piston these days without visiting alibaba. Tech has come along way so has the quality of metals. Prices don't vary a great deal from any supplier, the average being around 180$ for a complete piston kit. When you think about it, a 30 year old clapped out 4k will take some serious punishment before it pops and it won't be the pistons that give up. Performance is about balance and the clearances. Its the piston rings that give you reliability. Piston failure usually occurs through detonation which is caused by other things.

Early hiace or liteace maybe. Like one of those little hiace trucks. Something with a 4k motor and a chunky diff.

The Bosch GT40 has a primary resistance of 3.4 ohms. The GT40R fitted with a ballast resistor has a primary resistance of 3 ohms but you've now got HEI so the GT40 would be the best.

Bad earth possibly. Check the block to negative terminal strap.

Looks like fun. Very unique indeed. Is there a reason your weber is on backwards though?

A 4k I got off a member a couple of years back had a single.

If you bring the tasty alcoholic beverages to Beaudesert, ill grab a tube of liquid nails from mitre10!

Buy a carb kit for your carby and a can of carb cleaner. Probably set you back around 75$ combined. When you pull the carb off take photos or mark every hose so you know where they go. Its not hard. Pulling the carburettor apart isnt hard either just do it in fashion that you can keep track of everything and where it came from. Be careful when removing the brass jets as they can be hard to remove and you may damage them. Make sure youve got no vacuum leaks and block any hoses or stems around the carb if you don't know what goes there. New points in the dizzy with a .45mm gap, maybe a rotor and cap if there old and gammy. If you can get your hands on an electronic distributor you'll be a happy man. Disconnect the vacuum advance hose that runs from the carby to the distributor when you set you timing. 8 degrees of advance is ideal. If you don't have a timing light, I suggest you get one.

I dare say you.got yourself a hack vacuum leak somewhere round the intake.

There are kits on ebay but they are far from good value. It wouldnt be worth converting to a weber unless you do some other mods first or at least an exaust system and extractors as your little 4k wont really breath well enough to see any performance gains. A good well timed ignition system and a clean rebuilt stock carby will work wonders and is a good place to start learning.

I love k motors because it seems I'm replacing everything but the 5k.

Yeah. I see your point with the ra diff. Unfortunately I don't have access to a welder and being on minimum wage with 3 kids, having work done by the professionals is way out of my price range. I could just get another diff but with the ke20 shocks being in a bastard position I really need to keep the mounts.

I have ke55 borg warner diff in my ke20. Its starting to get all harmonic around the 100kph/3000rpm range. Its fine under acceleration and braking. It occurs specifically cruising in 5th gear at that speed. Sound a bit like a washing machine. "brrrr brrrr brrrr brrrr". Just like that! It appears to have a lot of backlash and it 'clunks' when you twist the tailshaft backwards and forwards. As this diff has the ke twenty spring mounts fitted id like to use this diff housing. What are my options in regards to replacing the diff centre and how hard is it? Will the centre out of any k series bw diffs fit?

Ke55 are 229mm.... This causes rear bias when braking.

The third could be windscreen washer bottle pump. Its hard to say without more detail. Get some photos of the whole engine bay so we can see whats missing from under there. Does the engine run soundly? Were these things connect when the original engine came out?

Second photo is the reverse signal and should go to the gearbox.

The other notches, not all pully's have them, are for total advance settings. eg. 10 degrees idle + 20 degrees maximum mechanical = 30 degrees total advance. When cruising inside a certain rpm range you can add 15 degrees for vac advance. Totalling 45 degrees advance.

That could be of a gas power forklift. Does it have a baffle on the underside of the valve cover? A bit of Autosol and an hours worth of elbow grease will get your cover like that any how.

Never seen one of these... Photos?

It's the main shaft. It's weakest part of these transmissions. The slipper bearings wear out and the main shaft begins to gyrate which makes changing crunchy and destroys the synchos.

The dizzy has 12 teeth on the gear and rotates at half the speed of the crank. 2 full rotations of the crank : 1 rotation of the distributor. 720 crankshaft degrees divided by 12 distributor gear teeth equals 60 degrees. So if the distributor is one tooth out that is 60 crankshaft degrees. Effectively the distributor can go in 12 ways. If you look down into the hole where the dizzy goes you can see the oil pump drive where the tongue on the end of the dizzy goes in. This can be turned with a screw driver until you can get the dizzy to drop in correctly.

I still think your dizzy is out. One tooth on the dizzy is 60 crankshaft degrees and that's going to mess your shit up. Without a timing light your going to have trouble. Getting the dizzy in the right place is an art and becomes easier once you get your head around it. Are you using and electronic dizzy or a breaker points dizzy? Point gap needs to be .45mm, plug spark plug gap should be .8mm and you should be running between 6 & 10 degrees of static/idle advance and no less. The only reason you'd run less is if its running very very lean which it will with a stock 4k carburettor. This is not a good thing....

Is it getting fuel? Have you checked there is definitely spark at the plug.