GJM85

T series a are not as common but have way more potential for good power gains. Performance parts are readily available in the U.S.

To work out how much juice you'll use, work out the cfm per rpm. At the ratio of 1:14.7 you can estimate your fuel consumption no matter what your induction set up.

My 5k has pushed 95mph with a stock cam and a 5speed, 4.11 diff. The alternator was over running, the charge light on, 5000rpm. It didn't have anymore and I won't be in a hurry to do it again. Getting nabbed now would be arrest, instant loss of license and 7 day impoundment.

Aye!

5y's are standard plugs and are fine. Black plugs are a result of overly rich fuel mixture. Too much fuel. Start looking at the carburettor. Idle mixture and idle speed screw. Possible rebuild kit. It's hard to say anything without knowing the overall engine condition.

Do you know what they are from?

Yeah likely the manifold gasket. You want to check for vacuum leaks as well. Any missing, split or old vacuum lines should be replaced. It's not hard to replace the manifold gasket. Just give it a go!

Shouldn't the pistons and rods be equally balanced first so the counterweights of the crank can be matched?

I reckon my 5k puts down around 80hp and 60 flintstone feet of torque at 5000rpm. Weber DGV, big port manifold, port matched head, 20thou over bore, stock 4k cam, tube headers and 2" straight through.

Have checked the points gap in the dizzy?

Just don't tell them...

If the gutted 5k lifters and 3k rods work, use it. or you could run chev solids with a12 rods. The could be machined down.

You could even have to a12 pushrods machined down a few mm as they are a solid item.

If you we're to put a 2mm shim under your 4k adjustable rocker posts and used the a12 rod and chev combo you may have the clearance and adjustment to get away with it.

This is a lot to get you head around at first but you can work with it. There are 2 hydraulic 5k's & 1 solid 5k. Yours. Deep piston, 76mm shallow combustion head(same as 4k-u), hydraulic lifters, 150mm ball & ball pushrods. Mine. Shallow piston, 82mm deep combustion head(same as 4k-c), hydraulic lifters, 156mm ball & ball pushrods. From all data I've come across the 3f solid lifter is assumed to be the same as the 5k solid. I have not seen or read anything that has confirmed that tit bit. I've never seen one or seen images of the 5k solid lifter/rocker gear. It could almost say it's mythological. Datsun a12 pushrods are 152mm and work great with chev small block solid lifters. People say 202 solid lifters but all 202's ran hydraulic lifters. Anti-pump hydraulic lifters were designed to replace hydraulics in performance applications to eliminate lifter float at high rpm. My set up is shallow pistons, 4k-c head, 202 anti pump lifters, a12 pushrods and adjustable rockers on a solid cam. I run 0.10mm valve clearances. Any more and it rattles. In my next build ill run hydraulic. Any rocker adjustment required due to cam lift will be countered by shaving or shimming the rocker posts accordingly.

You will need ball and cup pushrods 150mm long.

You need 150mm pushrods and non-adjustable rocker assembly to run hydraulic lifters.

What type of 5k head? And what pistons are being used?

In the 3 years I've only seen one with the exception of car shows & that was a matte black one in Samford.

I've got a ke70 starter on a 5k in my ke20. No warken forries.

Not too sure yet. First thing is to buy some pistons and a rebuild kit so then I get get the block dipped and bored to suit. Ill need to make a decision before I buy the is pistons though.

Cheers mate. Always good hear from fellow members. Which side of the road were you on?

I've pulled the motor down with the exception of removing the crank. It was full of water, so it's quite obviously been sitting around for some time. The block has no displacement casting and the engine number starts with 023. The 5K in my ke20 starts with 037 so I would assume this is from around '86 but who can tell? It is a shallow dished engine with hydraulic lifters. It is a mid port 5k head. The exhaust recirc ports have been bunged off. The head gasket was newish and hardly stuck to the block. The manifold gasket has been stuck on with all manner of adhesives. Single row timing chain, standard camshaft. The lifters are pretty shagged and one has completely collapsed which is likely the reason the motor was negated. The bore is standard size and the piston are standard Toyota aisan items. I would dare say the engine has never been rebuilt.

I've acquired Toyota 5K 1486cc engine. A very basic specimen, missing most auxiliaries and in a rather poor state. My brother happened across an odd looking engine at the local tip. He rolled it over to check the number & $5 later it's on my engine stand. That is what I call a win. My intentions for this piece are unclear but hardly honourable. This is going to be a very slow rebuild as I want to go all places and explore all possible scenarios.... and I'm not exactly a rich amigo.

Check out what my brother found at the Beaudesert dump. For just 5$ here it is. Proud owner of another shallow 5k. Standard bore, bunged off 5k head with hydraulic kit. Good looking fuel pump, but look at what came out of the sump. Has 4 prong spark plugs for some reason. Very happy chap here apart from the fact that my 6 year old son left the plug in the bathroom sink with the tap running and now I'm busy doing a water dance drying carpet with every square inch of towel in the house. Where do we go from here? What that in the back ground?