Gavclassic

Some actual pics of the car for those who haven't seen it before.

Best you learn how to drive first before making the car go faster. Join a car club, do a kahanacross or supersprint learn to drive first then work on going faster!

Looks like the first upgrade going to be 14" wheels with 185/60 x 14 rubber. Also RX 7 S2 front brakes which are nearly 30ml bigger in diameter and are vented. Stage 2 upgrade most likely the S2 dics rear with 3:9 and LSD. If anyone out there can help with any of these bits let me know. :lolcry:

Just spoke to a friend who put a Tercel diff into his KE36 wagon which i assume had a 4:4 diff, dropped staight in and bolted perfectly up to the tailshaft. Now when his speedo reads 80kph he's actually doing 100kph. He's wrapped considering his old girl is still a 4 speed. Apparently a KE10 diff would have also fit but the tailshaft bolt pattern was different. :lolcry:

You probally right, KE1# sedans both auto and manual are 4:2 and the wagons are 4:4. Mine must be the 4:2 cause its the original item. Also heard that the Tercel diff fits the KE1# housings but not sure about the splines, there're apparently a 3:9 or 3:7 depending on model.

Thanks heaps! I've actually got a S3 RX 7 thats basically a rolling shell that i bought for the disc rear end. If i was going to use it i also intended to use the front brakes as well, then front and rear would have the 4 x 114.3 stud pattern which is a bit easier to find 14" alloys in. My S3 RX 7 is an auto, but i don't know the ratio yet. If i could find a S2 disc rear and front brakes and struts for reasonably money i'd consider using them instead.

Thanks guys! At the moment my KE17 runs the original Jap dif, 4:1 is standard, 4:3 is what comes out of the KE18 wagons. My other option is to cut down and RX 7 S2 or S3 disc rear end. If i'm going to go down the Mazda option i need to make sure i can get an LSD for it with at least a 3:9 ratio. :lolcry: I'll also be using the front brakes of the Mazda just to keep it all balanced.

The 4:1 ratio in my KE17 is way to short. Looking for a bolt in replacement thats about a 3:7. Otherwise what ratios can yoy get for a KE30/55 rear. Any advise would :) be greatly appreciated!

Only got one pic, car was corner weighted, Koni adjustables were matched to som Ebach coils on threded tubes grafted onto the original struts. Also an of set top bearing plate was made to give more castor and a little more neg camber. Next will be a brake upgrade with disc/lsd rear.

Motor was built by Jeff Taylor, big valves, big port job, cam, lightened flywheel etc. He also buit the 4K in my Kahanacross car which made 75hp at the wheels. The 4k need about 8000rpm to get that power compare to about 6200rpm that the 7k needed. The transverse spring has gone, now has adjustable coil overs, also moved pick up point for the lower control arms.

Just got of the dyno and after an hour of playing around we were able to get a little over 103hp at the wheels. Motor went fine, made good torque all the way through the rev range and made good HP from about 2500 up.

Finally after nearly 3 months and heaps of $$$$$$$$$ my Sprinter is back home. All that is left is to run it in and a tune on the dyno.

Nothing wrong with a rusty Motokahana car, just means its lighter. Hope you've taken out all the carpet, heater box and controls and everything else thats not needed. Also cut a coil out of the rear and longer front lower arms will help. Here's some pics of my KE 70 i use for kahanacross work, its soon to be re shelled into a 2 door KE30 to reduce the weight. Good to see you out there having a go, any by the way where are you located? :poke:

This ones for curcuit use, i've another car i use for kahanacross work.

More pics of the exhaust, did you see the stainless heater lines that are being made!

Some updated pics, engine in, extractors and exhaust system done and sump modified. So far its taken about 80 hours!

Check you points in the dizzy, they could have closed up!

Usually better to buy a car thats done! Most mods will cost twice as much as you think and take three times longer than planned. You'll then have to buy another car to get around in while your modifying the first one. Buying the second car will eat into the budget for the first car meaning the mods on the first car will now take five times longer to finish! FOLLOW !!!!!! :hmm:

My Toyota Dealer got sick of me chasing old bits for old cars, making them go find part numbers in old parts manuals. They ended up giving me all their old genuine manuals and now its up to me to find the part numbers and call them with exactually what i need, though these days most bits are no longer available. :(

I'd think the "hm38" will be 1' 3'8" in pipe diameter. Just gone through the exersize with my 7K. All the extractors available seem to be this size, i guess just for 1200 & 1300 engines. :)

Spent half a day cleaning the engine bay and blasting and paint some suspension bits. Hopefully by the end of the week the engine will be in. They still haven't started on the extractors. Will be having it on the dyno when finnished. My 4K in the Kahanacross car has 75hp at the wheels hope to get a bit more out of this one and a heap more torque.

Try some of your old wreckers, you can be surprised what good seats and trim are sitting in cars. Usually not that expensive either! :)

It could be done by just modifying the sump and using standard carbs and of the normal extractors at home in you own garage. The fact that i wanted to get the most HP out of the motor meant we needed to give the webers more room to breath, hence fabricationg an enging mount to upright the motor and to get all the gas out quick also means hand fabricated extractors and exhaust all mandrel bend of course. Cost so far have been about $4000 for the 7K engine and rebuild, $1000 for the twin webers and a rebuild. The extractors and exhaust will be about $2500 and there's still more to go. But thats just the way i do things, never by half measures!!!!!!!!!!! :)

A couple more pics, one of the 7K the other the engine mount mod to stand the engine a little upright to give the twin webers more room. Once welded in and painted will look factory. Also sent template of to the laser cutter to have a new exhaust flange made to suit the 1800. Unfortunatly all " of the shelf " extractors are only 1,3/8" in pipe diameter, the 1800 needs at least 1,1/5" pipe diameter so its a hand built set thats being made. I'll post more progress pics ASAP.

I know i had the car looked at and was going to have a go at buying it on Ebay but he sold it before the austion ended, obviously to you. Was a pretty tidy car with the conversion being done from an AE 101 import, thats about all i know. :nervous: