Gavclassic

I'll get some pics this weekend. The car is stored at my parents place, so i'll post them ASAP.

You can just bolt on any K series manifold and carby, to keep it economical stick to a single type, twin webers will suck the juice! :)

Basically bolts straight in, need to modify the sump to suit. 7K has heaps of torque, you won't need to use 1st gear. My KE18 runs a 7K efi, no broken boxes or diffs yet, but then again i drive fairly sedately. :)

Welcome aboard!, I can probally help with a tailight, also have a complete brown/beige interior to suit your car if interested ( 4 door trims + front & rear seats ) :)

Good looking ride, a set of 14" Corona steel wheels, nuts and center caps ( look the same as the Corolla 13's but 14's) and lower the car and it'll look great without spending heaps! :)

I have a passion for all old Japanese cars but especially Toyota Corolla's. The ease of part replacement from newer models to older models, Eg 2000 model Townace 7K bolt straight into a 68 KE 10. Tell me another car manufacturer that has used basically the same motor for 33years? Basically if its got the same engine code it'll bolt straight in. :)

I just payed $150 for one for my 7K, $128 seems fair! :lolcry:

I agree with all you're comments, the point i'm actually trying to make is that if you've never removed an engine from a car before, don't think an engine conversion is an easy way to gain more HP. Remove it, rebuild it, put it back in, its easy and straight forward. Lets face it, a workshop manual will tell you how to do it! Oh What A Feeling!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lolcry:

Monster port job, bigger inlet & exhaust valves, double valve springs, lightened flywheel, balanced, decked block, big cam and 12:1 comp. I payed $1200 for this motor second hand 8 years ago complete with twin Webers and manifold. JTS has just finished building me another motor but this ones a 7K. After i get the sump modified i can do the install myself. Hope to get around 100bhp at the wheels. In my 740kg KE17 Sprinter should really fly! :lolcry:

Don't see to many stock 4AGE's with 135+ bhp at the wheels, there usually around 100bhp. If you've done the conversion and its all running well and its cost you just 6K, you've done well. KE 25 Racer has undertaken a 4AGE 20v conversion i believe, lets see what he estimates its going to cost.We won't know for a while what the final real cost will be or the hp the motor puts out. :lolcry:

I owned my first car some 19 years ago and since have had nearly 180 cars of all makes and models. Never have i lost money on one, worst case i broke even. A wise man told me when i was young " dollars spent has to justify performance gained " For those of us who arn't engineers or fabricators, its much easier to remove the old 4K from the KE70, have it fully rebuilt including twin webbers, bigger valves, a big port job, balancing etc and then just put it back in and go! Compare this to converting it to a 4AGE, first find the good motor that dosen't need a rebuilt ( you now won't find a RWD version ). Then you'll have to get it modified to run it as a RWD engine, fabricate engine and gearbox mounts as well as an exhaust manifold, wire the whole thing up, the list and dollars keep going. In the end you list it for sale as an unfinished project. The initial cost of the import motor is cheep compared to a good modified rebuild on your 4K, it getting it in the car and going well that costs. Don't get me wrong, if i had heaps of $$$$ i'd have a 7AGE with quad throttle bodies and Motec, but i don't have 16 odd grand to throw at an engine for my Corolla. Most of the younger car enthusiasts would have never experienced the buzz of riding in a car with heavilly modified " Old School" engine running multiple Webbers. :y: My Datsun Sunny Club Car: CA16, aftermarket cams and EMS, 110bhp at the wheels, total build cost $35K+ My KE 70 Kahanacross Car: JTS 4K, twin Webers, 75bhp at the wheels, total build cost $3K I have just as much fun in both!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lolcry:

Looks great, there's something about KE 10 race cars. This used to be my Club Car but sold it cause i really luv my KE1# Corolla's.

Looks Great!, Hot looking front spoiler!

When you give a potential buyer a price you give he or she something to work with. They can decide straight away if they can afford it or not. The other benefit is a person may not be looking for that specific item, but at a price will pay just to have it for a spare. I do it all the time on ebay, I must have bought about 8 KE series water pumps and paid no more than about $15, i'm not needing that many right now but at that price I buy them for spares. Example: Seller wants to get rid of a KE 10 corolla, he really wants about $2500 for it, he lists it as a EOI. A potential buyer might think the cars worth $3500 after everone on the forums talked up the car but really only has $2500 to spend. He may not wan't to insult the seller by offering him $2500, both seller and buyer miss out. State the price and this clearly brings out the genuine buyers!

Why do people insist on advertising their car for sale as an Expression Of Interest. If they really wan't to sell the car just list it with a price, if they really want expressions of interest list it on eBay. I personally think its just a way of getting people talking about your car and hopefully push up the potential buying price to some rediculous level. If you just want people to talk about your car just list it in another section of the forum, eg: Rides an Projects. The For Sale sections in a forum should be for cars actually for sale with a price not ones that are only really for sale when some one offers a stupid amount. If you're just wanting to check out what the market might pay for your car the answer is eBay. List your car, set your reserve, if it makes it great if it does'nt make it you'll know roughly what the markets going to pay. The point i'm trying to make is don't clog up the For Sale sections on a forum with you own ego trip about your car, there are more appropriate sections for that, i use them all the time!

Thanks guys for all the positive comments, here's a couple more pics i took today. The seats are away having some repairs done and the carpet is out being cleaned.

Conversion was nearly bolt in, had to make 2 extra holes to bolt in the cross member and weld on front tie bar mount points. Mazda conversion was a bit more effort. I had the stud pattern on the wheels changed. Those wheels actually came of my first KE10 which i had some 12 years ago.

I don't think they were ever released in Australia. At this stage its going to stay a stocker. I've got a couple of things to do to it then it'll be up for sale on ebay. Here's a couple of pics of another KE1# than i've got stored at a mates workshop. Its got a KE25 front end with Mazda front brakes and struts and a full chrome molly cage. The JTS built 4K motor thats in my Kahanacross KE70 car came out of this one.

This is my KE 11 4 Door which i've had stored for over 2 years. Just a new battery and of she went. Carby needs a overhaul and the front seal in the box is leaking, other than that everything else seems fine. This car is a 1970 model, 1200 3K, 2 speed Toyoglide, factory tinted glass, front discs, stainless roof gutter trim, fully reclinable front seats ( same as KE 15/17's ) and a small rubber trim that goes around the headlight surounds which i've never seen on any other KE1# series Corolla. Also the car has never had a heater fitted which tells me it was most likely imported not sold new in Australia. I have been able to trace back NSW registration to the early 80's. Sorry for only one pic, camera went flat. Will post more tomorrow.

Problems logging on both at home and at work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :dance:

I'll follow him up and try and get his contact details and get him on, thats if he's not on already!

Its white, off white and a very good car!

A friend of mine just sold his hot little KE25 to someone in Tassie. It went on the boat last Saturday. Its an immaculate little car running a hot 4K with twin webbers, 5 speed box and 15" Superlite Alloys. Those in Tassie won't miss it!

Front tyres 175/60x13, rears are 185/60x13.

Trying to keep it as original as i can, i know the 7K isn't but still looks original. I've got a lightweight KE10 with KE25 front end, Mazda RX7 SII front struts & brakes and RX7 SII disc rear end which will end up being the all out race car.