ke71-rolla

I wasn't saying any of you were wrong in doubting thatt rear strut braces effectiveness, as i can easily see how putting a nice big fat piece of pipe at the rear of ones keto will make the driver feel race spec. But of course why the hell would a piece of pipe be stronger than the cars own chassis which is about 10mm below it!, but now begs the question, would any rear strut brace make a notable difference in a ke70 with standard rear suspension setup?......RedSpirit had braces all through his car didnt he?? Really enjoyed reading these responses :thumbsup:

Adding a strut brace to a boaty high car is like having an apple or a water with your maccas, regardless you've got a pice of crap in the picture which needs to go!!

hmmm, i would haev thought it may be of some use considering it is welded to the rear shock housing??, but i don't understand the complexities of strut braces apart from that they make awesome happen

oh wow, yeah thats much better tahn what the first pic showed!! From the first pic i thought it just went straight across from one side of the boot to the other, not those bottom supports, seems i might get one of those!!! Did that cost 180$?? thats what i was quoted anyways, i assume they only have one type of weld in strut brace

Sorry to hi-jack the thread....buuuuut I installed a tacho dash into my ke70 a while ago now, from memory the fuel gague never worked, never bothered me to be honest, although it would be nice to have. Replacing the sender is a 5min job?? Same deal with a ke70? Where abouts is it located or what does it look like?? Thanks :thumbsup:

Yeah buddy, no need to go chopping already stiffened springs. Consider the weight difference of a falcon and corolla??, then your gonna cut them, and I'm under the assumption they will just get stiffer!! One of my mates bought a ra40 celica, with chopped superlow king springs all round, and man, it does break your back!! (although it is super low and super stiff)

Hmmm yeah, is that welded onto a point of structural importance?, ive seen others mounted over the rear shock absorbers. So howd it make your car feel after getting it mounted? Thanks for the pic too hey! Currently I'm running new front inserts, and all round lowered springs; just ordered my rear shocks, also have a front strut brace. I seem to notice when coming into corners the car doesnt seem to be steady footed, the rear wants to move around more than the front. Ie: if I'm going around a easy wide corner at the speed limit, and just play with the accelerator taking it on and off, i notice the balance of the car is distrupted alot, more than what i would be expecting. Anyway after all that babble, I'm assuming by replcing rear shocks and adding a strut brace it will make the rear match the front, and henceforth tighten the car up.

Tears in my eyes seeing them kill the Jag :D

Hey man Just my 2 cents, but honestly mitsubishi, their later model cars i wouldnt say are the same as what mitsi used to be.... I know several people who own 6cyl magnas, treated them right, and they are a real nice car to drive; sure sometimes the window motor might go, or some of the trim might seem a bit tacky....but ur gonna get that from any Australian built car. Id say go for one of those camry's hey, theyre real nice to drive, HUGE boot...for example. Today at work putting a bbq into one of them, this box is massive, never seen it fit in a sedan ever. So we see the camry rock up, me and the other guy running the back dock look at each other, shake our heads. But to our surprise the box fitted in and so comfortably. Yes, i am posting pretty much to say that the camry has a HUGE boot, and it is amazing...buy one ^_^

Just wondering guys, e-mailed AJPS and asked about a rear strut brace, they said it was a weld in option. Where abouts does it weld in, i was under the impression there was a strut brace which bolted ove the top of the rear shocks?

women...wait no, partners :), farrrr out they can sure f@$king overreact some times can't they

Hey guys, thanks for the help. I ended up just taking the struts to the mechanics, got them to change the inserts and springs, only cost 50$ where a rattle gun hire was 30 ;) So after learning how to swear like a man, took a while to figure out the best way to install the first strut, after that the second was a breeze. Only have two problems, both related to the steering arm connection. On the drivers side i can't tighten the nut to the thread, ie the thread moves along with the nut :lol:, i tried getting a spanner and hitting it hard wioth the palm of my hand and then a hammer, didnt seem to work....any ideas?? And on the passenger side steering arm, the nut is in all good, but i can't get the split pin to go through the hole!!!! thanks again guys

I reckon i might try the tyre shop tomorrow ;) .....fingers crossed!! Thanks for the offer as well Luke!!, but wouldn't wanna make you drive out here for something small like this :lol:

Dam i was afraid of that haha, might now someone with a rattle gun. Thanks for clearing that up!!

Got the struts out and all that, now when trying to replace the inserts, ive installed the spring compressors, tightened them a bit so they are holding the spring captive but not allowing it to move freely. When going to undo the top bolt of the insert, the entire insert moves freely.....is there a good method which can be used to stop this, or would i require a different tool?? Thanks Guys

Hahaha, sweet. Just lubed up all the joints and got myself some kerosene to clean it all up so i can actually see whats goin on. Currently theres just crap everywhere. Thanks for the advice man edit!! So yeah cleaned it up and the clip was there, took it off, soooo.....in order to make the strut free of the break hose, which end do i loosen the hose from, am i gonna have to bleed my breaks or is there something I'm missing?

Oooook then, finally getting around to replacing my front strut inserts and springs. Now i know the general procedure to remove the struts, or at least what i think would be the best way?? 1) Jack the car up!!! 2) Remove the road tyre.....haha ....... 1) remove break caliper, hub and rotor 2) disconnect the steering arm 3) disconnect the LCA 4) support strut with a jack, and loosen bolts at the top 5) viola lower the strut out. Now i just have a couple of questions :jamie: To remove the LCA and steering arm, should i just knock them with a hammer or something of the sort? or is there a wedge that you can stick just above the busher and knock them loose? And also, the break line coming from the caliper, goes through the strut in a support; how do i make that break line free of the strut?? Cheers guys!!

Yeah i was thinkign they might be better for load carrying as i had seen them in a few utes.....well ford utes anyway

yeah man, piece of piss. Imagine removing ur original dash cluster, and then installing it again; thats how easy it is; EXACTLY the same enjoy

must be some advantage of leaf springs, apart from cost of manufacturing possibly

Hey there, just wondering what the difference is, what advantages does each offer??

Oooook; couldn't figure out what was wrong last night due to sleep deprevation!! Once i finished work tonight went had a look.....had a think.......looked at how many kms i had done....480, 50ltr tank yeah, i was outa petrol :) :jamie: Was thinking it was all because of my air filter, not a more basic problem!! Thanks anyway guys!

Hey had to get home from a mates, went to turn on car, hear something knocking on my fan, hmmm what may that be? Oh its my AIR FILTER? so its liek ok i don't haev bolts for it, drive home almost make it home and now car doesnt work at all, may have a little splutter of life but thats it, revs die no matter how much throttle Does the carby need a clean out with some carby cleaner? I didnt think driving 20mins would effect it this much......... Night guys

lol +1

Back to 30 on the weekend :no2: