Old fella

G`day mate, I`m starting to think that you may have a crook ballast resistor. The white porcelane thing beside the coil. Did you change the coil or are you still running the factory one. They are rated at 8 volt and most aftermarket coils (bosch gt40 ???) are rated at 13.6 so you can wind up with probs there. Also, if you happenned to put the dizzy in 180 degrees out, try swapping spark leads 1 and 4 and then 2 and 3. That method is not a cure, but the engine should fire with that lead configuration. After using a bit of petrol down the carby and the engine not firing, you can bet that the plugs will be really wet. It could be a good idea to pull the plugs out and dry them and then wind the engine over for a minute or so with no accellerator to blow any loose juice from the cylinders. For safety, disconnect you coil lead during this process. Check that the plug gaps are around 30 thou or about the width of a hacksaw blade. Its also worth checking that your contact points are openning correctly. They should also be around 30 thou. Have a close look at the rotor button to see if it has any sign of cracks or burning where you wouldn`t find it. And while you are at it do the same with the dizzy cap. There are heaps of things that will stop an engine from firing but the things that I have mentioned would be the most common. Good luck and feel free to ask more questions if need be. Best wishes, Old Fella.

G`day mate, I worked in the motorcycle game for a number of years and it was commonplace to have to have keys made. The biggest problem is that you can`t get the ignition barrell out of the column without a key, so I would suggest taking a door lock out instead, pretty easy, and take it to any locksmith in your area. They will be able to make a set of keys for you within a day or so. They can quite easily change the innards of a boot lock for you also, giving one key fits all. From memory it didn`t cost too much either. Certainly cheaper than buying new secondhand stuff from a wrecker. Good luck, Old Fella.

Maaaate, its a pretty old car, has a few faults, probably got a busted furkinator,,,,,what else can I say. I`d probably take a huge chance and offer you $50 bucks if you give me 12 months warranty and deliver it to me. Now to reality, its worth what it is worth to you. I`ve seen ke10/11 bring some pretty good prices lately depending on what their basic condition is. I kind of get the impression that you don`t really want to sell it, so, if it were me in that position, I`d put a higher than normal price on it and see what happens. I`m thinking around the $1500 to $2000 mark purely because they are so hard to get. Good luck with the sale, Old Fella.

http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/resources/...r_vehicles2.pdf G`day mate, maybe in NSW spacers are ok, but here in Qld the RTA is very specific about their use. They state that no wheel spacers other than those supplied by the manufacturer shall be used. Check the website attached. See ya, Old Fella.

G`day mate, I personally think that for a junior speedway sedan either radiator type will do the job, but, the copper variety will be a bit stronger as far as being struck by stones etc from the track and are readily vailable. Copper is also easily repaired with a soldering iron too, whereas the aluminium variety can be quite expensive and usually requires an expert welder to repair. Good luck with the build and what about some piccies.

G`day mate, I`m not familiar with the model number that you mentioned and have searched the Weber North America website for schematics of same, but with no joy. Because of the venturi size, I can only assume that it would originally have been used on a motor of similar size to yours. My suggestion is that you simply by an adaptor and bolt it on and see what happens. Weber is not a carby that can be tuned properly in a "backyard" , so I suggest that you do all the basic mounting and stuff yourself and then take it to an expert for final jetting and tuning. Most reputable engine tuners will be able to help there, but ultimately a dyno tune is the way to go. Th weber in question is a better fuel delivey system because both butterfly`s open at the same time and unlike the standard aisan carb, don`t rely on progressive vaccuum to become fully functional. Just changing the carby will not make a whole lot of difference to a stock motor, but is certainly a good start if you intend to modify in the future. Keep us posted with your progress and good luck with the conversion. Old Fella.

G`day mate, from memory the easiest way to tell the diffrence in ke10 models is by the difference in grille. It took about thirty seconds of searching Google Images to find various photos. Sometimes you just gotta do some of the work yourself. P.S. compliance plates were not fitted to vehicles in australia until the early seventies. Good luck.

G`day mate, its always worth checking your fuel for contaminants such as water. You say that it was going ok after the transplant and then ran rough and then died. They are typical symptons of water in fuel. Try disconnecting your fuel line and allow the fuel pump to squirt some juice into a bucket or the lke and simply have a look. Petrol being lighter than water will stay on top and water droplets, if any, will appear on the bottom. It`s worth a try. Good luck.

G`day mate, your problem sounds to me to be either a dirty fuel filter or a fuel pump that is on its last legs. Pretty doubtful on jets or the problem would be there city an highway driving. I`m not familiar with suzuki, but some cars run more than one fuel filter so you may have to consult a manual or a dealer to find out where they are. Some fords run a pick-up screen in the tank, then a line filter and then a filter where the fuel line joins the carby. Even though dealers charge for cleaning/replacing them during services, they sometimes don`t do the job, if you catch my drift. Anyway, thas my two bob worth, so good luck.

G`day mate,my opinion of your problem revolves around the actual condition of your car. You have to ask yourself if it is actually worth spending 3.5 k on a 1982 motor car, even if it is a rolla. If the answer is yes, then it would be my decision to go for a 7k for simplicity alone. You will come up with extra neddy`s and torque that you won`t get from a 4k and then you have the option of working it mildly for a bit more grunt. Anyway, your decision. Good luck either way.

G`day mate and congratulations, although twin webers are a lot of fun and sound bloody delicious, they are not a carby that can be tuned in the back yard. I suggest some time on a dyno with someone who knows what they are doing. The following web address will no doubt come in handy in the future. http://webernorthamerica.com/pdffiles/40DCOE151.pdf Good luck with the fitting etc and if you havent already got a manifold to suit, look on gaybay. They are always there from a dealer in north Qld.

G`day mate, nice work so far. Being as old as I am I thought that your comparrison of Triumph to Yamaha was a bit tough. Yes the japs saw a market and, as usual developed an already popular design and vastly improved it. I`v had both brands over the years, along with a lot of others and I personally would have an XS before any of the Brit oil leakers anyday. Anyway, having said that, I used to use an xs650b motor in my compact speedcar back in the early eighties. Because there was no such thing as a big bore kit available then, a mate of mine and myself started searching the parts books and discovered that, with a bit of modification we could use 500cc speedway Jawa/Eso pistons and liners. The gudgeon pin and deck height are the same and it takes the sedate little 650 out to an impressive 903cc. It didn`t need a huge cam and the stock valves are big enough to handle the job. There should still be stocks of these pistons/liners available because people are still riding the old speedway bikes at vintage meetings etc. Anyway, good luck with the build and I hope that my info is of some use to you.

G`day mate, its worth a look at the FAQ page to set your mind at ease on crankshafts/bore sizes. http://www.superjamie.net/oldcorollas/engine/blocks.html If my memory serves me correctly, the original 1077cc k motor only had a 3 main bearing crank. I think that was changed to 5 in the later 1166 2k motor. I am building a 4k at the moment and was given a balanced 3k crank and rods and thought that I would use them and save a few bucks. As it turns out, the centre main thrust area is totally different to the 4k, so for that crank, no go. You are doing the right thing by doing a bit of research and homework before laying out a whole bunch of bucks for nothing. Mate, my original ke10 (I owned it back in 1972/73) was heavily modified and I continually revved it to redline and it never looked like letting me down. The car would go off the speedo by about half an inch and was actually faster than some of the rally datto 1600`s of the day. Please consider using the K motor that you already have. You`ll have a heap of fun with it. Anyway, good luck with the build

G`day mate, its not impossible that your amp is helping to drain your battery. I`m assuming that you are driving a Corolla and if it is an early one it will only have an alternator that provides about 45amps in pristine condition. The manufacturer made these things to "just " do the job and no more, so maybe a bigger alternator is in order, or a trip to the local auto leccy to see if yours can be given a bit more oomph. Its worth checking that your fan belt is tight also and while your in there clean your battery terminals. Anyway, I hope that is a help.

G`day mate, I have both 3k (so I was told)and 4k flywheels here also but my 3k has 5 bolt holes and my 4k 6. I`ve never weighed either but I seem to remember a thread somewhere that tells the weight of 4k. Good luck with the build.

G`day mate, you have to remove the original studs and then use allen screws/bolts to bolt the adapter to your manifold. If you know someone with a tig welder, get the adapter welded to the manifold and cut out the risk of another air leak. Anyway, good luck.

G`day mate, that sounds like a classic throw out bearing noise, but similar can be caused by a number of parts down there. Best bet is to jack the car high enough that you can get under it, start the car and, using a large screwdriver as a stethoscope (hold the handle end to your ear) and place the other end on the bellhousing and then the outside of the box adjacent to where the input shaft bearing is located. With a little patience you should be able to hear which bearing is the crook one. Sorry, but regardless of which one it is(and i`m betting on the "chuckaway" bearing) it has to be replaced sooner than later. Anyway, good luck.

For street use a locked distributor is not really a good idea. You need to have the distributor advancing the spark timing as engine operation requires it. Use of a locked dizzy is common in speedway/drags/competition, because it gives the engine the maximum advance from the moment your foot goes down. In racing situations it is common that an engine is just held flat out and making maximum horsepower as soon as possible. Bear in mind that although that sounds good, race engines are prone to failure a lot sooner than street engines. It is not uncommon that a locked dizzy will be delivering around 40 degrees of advance all the time and causing all sorts of extra stress on pistons and rods. It will also make your engine run hotter and so the chain goes on. If anything, and depending on your bank balance, get another dizzy(or repair the old one) and have it graphed by a reputable tuner. You will notice a significant difference straight away. Good luck.

Mate, it might be worth giving the ferkinator spring a bit more tension while your at it.

G`day mate, I would personally be looking at the needle and seat before any adjustment is made. You say that the carb had a chunk of poop in one of the jets, so that means that it had to have entered past the float needle. If it is a neoprene tipped needle it may have been scratched or split. If the needle is just metal, check it for signs of wear and replaceas neccessary. There is always a chance that there is some warpage to the top section of the carb too. When you have the top off to look at the float needle, check the top with a straight edge. (steel ruler or similar) If it is warped slightly, come back to me and I will explain how to fix it. Good luck.

Mate, follow the link and read up before you go any further. http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...a_tough_K_motor

G`day mate, I am also doing a mild 4k and have had a read of the building a tuff 4k thread on this site. It states fairly clearly that a 32/36 is too big for the 4k. I happen to have a stock carby that some kind person has converted from vaccuum assisted secondaries, to constant dual throat. It was run with the same cam that I am using (31/70 )and with the same 3k head. I`m gonna give that a try and see if it comes up trumps. If you still have your stock carb, why not give it a go. Its only an hour or so work to find out. P.S. I am lucky enough to have two dgv webers and one of them has had 28mm venturies fitted. Maybe you should check what yours are and maybe discuss with your local dealer the availability of them and whether it will be worth your time changing. You didn`t mention extractors and exhaust system. They make a pretty big difference when you start playing with a 4k. Anyway, good luck.

G`day mate, check this site and maybe contact them. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-WHEEL-HUB-SP...%3A1%7C294%3A50 Just remember that by spacing your wheels out 25mm+ you are placing enourmous extra strain on your stub axles and pushing your wheels further toward your mudguards, possibly causing another set of problems. It`s also really illegal to use the spacers on the road. Anyway, good luck.

Mate thats a strange one. One would normally associate creamy oil under the 710 cap with a blown headgasket/crackedhead. Have a look inside the top of the radiator with theengine running to see if there are bubbles forming. If so then it is probably one of those. Also try parking the car nose up on a steep driveway/hill and see what level the coolant is inside the radiator. A slight possibility is an air lock inside the head. It probably wouldn`t hurt to re-tension the head either, if you can get hold of a torque wrench. If it does turn ouy to be a head problem, please don`t try to fix it with a chemical additive to the radiator. That is only a stop gap and will lead to bigger problems down the track. Anyway, goodluck.

Sounds more like an air leak of some sort. All you can do is check that the manifold bolts are all tight, that the carby nuts are tight and that none of the pollution hoses are leaking. The latter could be a long process but the first ones that I would look at are the vacuum advance one and then the one to the charcoal cannister and then the one to the pcv valve. Sometimes the gizmo that sticks out the front of the thermostat housing with the 4 hoses to it gets bumped and the little plastic fittings get broken off. Same with the temperature sender unit. The other thing that it might be is a blocked/dirty idle jet. Try taking the air filter off and the long stud down the middle, start the car with the bonnett up, manually accellerate the engine up to around 4000rpm and then shove a big peice of rag over the top of the carby to completely choke it. I know that sounds like crap, but the vaccuum at those revs will suck small particles of dirt out of jets sometimes. Have a listen around your brake booster for any signs of a vaccuum leak also. anyway, good luck.