Old fella

G`day mate, when I put the weber on my 4k in my ke70, I was able to use the standard cable. If you are mounting the carb with the fuel inlets at the front, you should only have to make a cable adaptor that mounts on top of the tappett cover where the standard cable holder clip is now. If the ke30 cable is actually too short, maybe a ke70 will do the trick. Good luck and cheers.

G`day mate, got a couple of ideas. First of all was the car sitting for a long period in one spot? (not jacked off the ground) If so the tyres may have developed flat spots. Not a big deal and they will cure themselves within a drive of a few kilometres. Wheel balance. How long since you had a wheel balance? (instant cure) Loose wheel bearings combined with the above. Front discs surface rusted except for the spot where the brake pads were resting during the rebuild. ( not likely to cause wobble but worth checking) This will cure itself after normal braking for a few k`s also. Front wheel alignment combined with the above can also cause wobble and wandering. Shagged front tyres that are worn unevenly will do it every time. (replace tyres). All of the above will seem more apparent if you have recently replaced front end components such as rubbers etc. Thats my two cents worth, so good luck.

You`ll need a peice of fuel line about 200 mm long to replace part of the one from the fuel pump to the carby. Just blank off the second fuel inlet on the weber, you only need one. Cheers.

G`day mate, mine is a Redline adaptor and looks the same as that. I had to raise the carb 6mm higher to stop the cable linkage from touching the manifold. Its not hard to do, by using a steel /aluminium plate or a couple of the compound bases that come standard on the 4k manifolds. The bit with the larger pipe sticking out. Other than that it shouls be just fine. Cheers.

SLY-55

G`day mate, thats an age old argument and is sure to raise some emotion with the purists. My two cents worth is that I`ve had both diesel and petrol engines in 4wd vehicles and they both serve their purpose. I currently own a petrol Landcruiser, but have had diesel landcruiser and both diesel and petrol Nissan Patrols. What I found after all the years is that I can service a petrol engine at home. I can make repairs whilst on the road/track and I can generally diagnose a problem. The diesel engine these days is a very specialized engine. Although they are made to last (and they do) they are fitted with ancilliaries that only a specialist can repair/replace and that comes at a price. Most are turbo`d and there is another part to wear out/require rebuild regularly. The performance of both current types of engines is quite comparable, with the "off the line pick-up" being a little better from the petrol engine, in my experience. Mind you, there are 4cyl turbo automatics that will blow me off at every set of traffic lights. Fuel economy is definitley better from a turbo diesel, but you need to do the sums and include the much higher servicing costs or you may find that it is just false economy. Rebuild cost. Diesel,,,,,,unbelievably expensive, petrol,,,,, substancially cheaper and that goes for second hand used engines also. Its a hard call which is better but at the end of the day, you may find yourself doing just what I did. I bought the one that looked best. Good luck with your purchase and make sure that you do a few test drives to compare brands/models. Cheers. p.s. please punters, don`t hang me for my simle opinion.

g`day mate, with a bit of inovation on your part, you could use Dzus fasteners. It would mean possibly manufacturing the reciever plates or modifying what you can buy and then using double sided tape to attach them to the windscreen. Cheers.

Check your points gap

G`day all, I live up here too. Stock height Beige 83 KE 70 with black GT stripes. Can`t miss it. Gold 14" Performance meshies, slightly warm 4k and a note that sounds like a mini cooper S. Happy to catch up with anyone local. Got a 5K for sale too. and a few other bits. Cheers. Trevor.

That should be noted on your compliance plate. My ke70 is only a 4 seater.

Nah mate, just stand hard on the loud pedal and enjoy.

G`day mate, I`m running a cam with almost identical specs to the one you have. It is a mid to high range cam 3000 to 8000rpm. The 4k that I have it in has mild head work, extractors, balanced bottom end, 32/36 dgav weber and 1 3/4 exhaust. It is quicker than your average 4k but very dissapointing in traffic. Its got nothing until 3 grand and then pulls strongly through 7 grand. Not practical for a daily. Of course, it depends on what you want to use your car for, so the cam will either be just right for those weekend things that we all do, or a real pig as a daily. Oh, and its as lumpy as hell too. Great stuff for a while but you may find that you soon get sick of having double vision at traffic lights. Good luck with the build.

G`day mate, I replaced my points in my 4k recently and ended up with a squeeky whistle too. It turned out to be the distributor shaft. A couple of drops of engine oil allowed to dribble down the shaft through the hole in the middle of the advance plate fixed it up. Don`t forget to put a tiny drop on the points rubbing block too. (where the brown bit rubs on the centre bit to open the points) A quick squirt with a bit of water on your fan belt will tell you whether thats the problem there or not. Hope that helps.

G`day mate, I was obviously wrong thinking it was the locking mechanism. From memory the hinges are attached to the rear parcel shelf or there abouts. Can you get inside the boot with a torch or something and see if the part where the hinge attaches is bent upwards or not. Or remove the parcel shelf cover itself. Its possible that the hinges are stiff and the boot has been pushed down with a bit of force thereby bending the mounting area. That would put the hinge geometry way out. If it is, I guess that its big rubber hammer time from the inside if you are game. Dunno how else except to take it to a panel beater or something.

G`day mate, its hard to tell from the pics but its worth checking that the latch isn`t actually in the locked position when the boot is open. When you look at the latch it should have a gap that fits over the locking bar on the beaver panel bit. If that gap is not visible, grab a screwdriver/ pliers whatever and simply return it to the open position. Might take a bit of muscle coz its spring loaded. Cheers.

Mitch, my apology fro the language if you are offended. You have obviously been reading all of the comments made on this thread by myself and many others and you must agree that some good stuff has come out of it. Yes, I am unsure but I am willing to share what little knowlege I have on the subject. It might save a car fire sometime. The original builder of the setup in the thread that I posted could have easily shared his wealth of knowlege with us earlier and saved us all a lot of time. He chose not to, except to come back at me, who is really just here to find out answers myself, with a scathing verbal attack that I take exception to. Cheers.

Thanks for the really uncalled for rude comment. Your a big bastard on the other end of a computer aren`t you. Go f@$k yourself wanker.

Thanks for the reply mate, it sure is a sweet setup. I ran home made fuel injection many years ago on a speedcar and suffered delays because of the length of the manifold etc. I just made the assumption that your set up might cause the same. I wasn`t having a shot at you. Is it a sc12 or a sc14 by the way and is that a 40 or a 45 weber? See ya, Old Fella.

G`day again mate, There`s another thread going at the moment that has a nice draw through setup pictured. I`m no expert but I think that the sc pictured is an sc14, probably from a holden. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=40370 I`ve never had an sc12 apart or an s14 for that matter, but my son works as an apprentice mechanic in a well rpected workshop in our town and the info about not doing suck thru with an sc12 came from his employer. It has something to do with the materials used inside the supercharger that make it only useable one way. Just a comment on the lovely job that the fella with the picture has done. There seems to be a hell of a lot of fuel still in the piping once the weber butterflies are closed and its my opinion that it could and probably would cause delays in both accelleration and decelleration. Don`t hang me if I`m wrong, its just my observation. Theres a sc12 on ebay at the moment if your interested. Anyway, cheers mate. Old Fella.

Angle grind a hole thru it and get a bit of chain and a padlock. BAHAHAHA!!!!!!! :( :wink:

G`day mate, I`m thinking of using a sc12 on my 5k, but the word from all the so called experts where I live is that the sc12 is not suitable for a draw thru setup. Something to do with the innards of the sc not being able to cop it. I`m now thinking of a blow thru setup, which in itself is a pretty simple way to go. If you get any positive answers to your question, be sure to post them here so everyone can have a look. Good luck. Old Fella.

G`day mate, lotsa years ago a mate made a buggy with two gearboxes in line. He used old holden three speeds but you could use anything. Picture a four speed k box in tandem with a three or four speed. It will give you the lowest gear range you have ever heard of and for cheap as chips too and you will still be able to select high gears for the mandatory donuts in the dirt.. You might want to lock your diff too. Good luck with the build, Old Fella.

Mate, regardless of what EVAN-G has to say in the next useless post, I am considering the same thing. I have narrowed it down to an sc12. Can`t remember what model toyota they come from but for street use thay should be just the trick for a 4k and cheap too. I have considered the turbo/supercharger question and have come up with the answer that a supercharger is much simpler and much more streetable as far as predictability goes. You make your own decision which way you will go with carburettion, but I am thinking of the 32/36 weber that I already have fitted. With the sc12 you have to run blow through coz the innards of it won`t like suck through at all. Anyway, good luck with the conversion and keep us posted. Old Fella.

My KE70 is fitted with a weber and extractors and has had all of the pollution gear removed ...with the exception of the PCV valve, the charcoal cannister and the crank case breather (from the tappett cover). I put it through a roadworthy inspection like that and had no problems at all. Mine is an 82 and the sticker under the bonnett stated that the vehicle was pollution complied to meet California laws, so I peeled it off. I don`t live in California anyway. Don`t make the mistake of venting your crank case breather through a filter attached to the tappet cover outlet, the gasses cannot be vented directly to the atmosphere and you will get busted. Don`t loose too much sleep about it. Most members of the constabulary wouldn`t know shit from clay about pollution gear, let alone cars in general. Cheers.

It doesn`t take the Japs long. Here`s a street race version already. http://images.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=...%26tbs%3Disch:1 :S :D :P