Old fella

Mate, my daily s a petrol Landcruiser and I never had a tank pressure problem until I started using the cheaper fuel with Ethanol added. Now it pressurises all the time, but has no ill effect other than a faint fuell smell from time to time. Just to demonstrate what happens to fuel inside a fuel tank, grab a plastic soft dring bottle and put a little bit of your fuel in it and shake, or even leave it in the sun for a short while. You`ll be amazed how much pressure it builds up all by itself. I`m not sure if corolla`s run a vented fuel cap or not, but that is worth checking also. See ya and good luck.

Mate you can get away without cam bearings, but just remember that the cam travels at twice engine revs. I was suprised with mine to find that one bearing was nackered and they have to be fitted with the correct press. For just a freshen up of your existing motor, go to your local super cheap or equivelant and ask them cost for a re-ring kit. I did a 4G32 Mitsubishi recently and the re-ring kit for that was only about $200. I`m pretty sure that they will be able to do a 4K kit on request. All the kit has is head, manifold and sump gaskets, rings and big end bearings. Valve stem seals were extra, but not much. If your valve faces are not burned, you can buy a valve lapping dolly and lapping paste for about $25 from Repco. Extractors and weber make a huge difference to the little 1300, as does a mild cam. Stay posted and I will have a 25/65 for sale soon. It`s just a mild street cam giving best results from 2500-5500 revs. Or keep your eye out on gaybay. They come up all the time. There is actually a very good thread about building a tuff 4K and it is well worth a read if funds are a bit iffy. Again, god luck.

G`day again, I am in the process of rebuilding my 4K at the moment so I can give you some idea of costs. Workshop manual. $10/$40. Rebuild gasket set, $120 plus. Pistons. $160 Big end and main bearings. $100. Cam bearings. $ 35. (instalation $80) Cylinder boring. $100. Cam regrind. $150 Extractors. $ 250. Weber adapter plate. $45. Head shave. $60 (just a skim to ensure straightness) Head shave for higher compression. $75 plus. Then you have to decide whether the valve guides/ valves are up to scratch or not. Add $200 plus for valve work to standard condition. Talk to your local engine builder for price on mods. That is a basic rebuild and you can bet that there will be hidden costs when you get the engine apart and start looking at corrosion in the likes of the water pump/ cylinder head etc. You also may have to look at a reco radiator and hoses. Oilpump??? New oil and filter etc, etc. As you see, it is not massively expensive to rebuild a 4K but you will still come out with an engine that was originally designed 40 years ago, to drive little Japs to and from the sushi bar and not to race commodores through the streets of Newcastle. Do some homework before you start and you will be able to increase horsepower to an acceptable level without spending your life savings. Then compare the price against dropping an A motor in. You decide. I personally wanted to rebuild my 4K because my car is being done "old school" and it just wouldn`t look right to me with a twin cam. Good luck with the project anyway.

Mate, there`s a gozillion things in a 4K that make noise during operation. Always tappets, timing chain, valve guides, cam followers, piston slap, possible cracked pistons(not uncommon) and general wear and tear after being thrashed for ever trying to keep up with traffic. The only real way to cure the problem is to pull it out and rebuild. Too expensive???? then install a quality stereo system and turn up the volume, that fixes most 4K noises instantly.

G`day mate, have a look in the yellow pages for any spring works. They`ll all do the job for you. Price?? dunno.

Mate, I just had a look on ebay and there is a brand spanker for starting bid of $90 out of Melourne + freight to your door. Thats a bargain for a new item. Have a look under Corolla Motor. Mods, sorry if I have broken any rules here, just trying to help the young bloke out.

I`m pretty sure that there is one on ebay at the moment. If not, I`ve got. a spare in Toowoomba, if you drive up, you can have it.

G`day mate, it sounds like the starter motor brushes have worn out. They are the little black things attached to a short copper wire inside the starter. They transmit charge to the commutator and when they wear out, nothing happens when you try to start. There is one way to test this without pulling the starter out. Get a peice of electrical wire and hold one end on one of the starter terminals (ignition switched off!!!!!) and brush the other end over the other terminal. If the brushes are worn out, nothing will happen. If you have some mechanical experience you may be able to pull it apart and repair it yourself. If not.....auto leccy or wreckers. Good luck.

G`day mate, I had an incidence years ago where I inadvertantly over tightened the bolt that holds your air cleaner on. That tends to slightly warp the top half of your carby and it runs like puss. Worth a try.

G`day mate, have you checked your thermostat. It`s the simplest place to start. Simply take it out and place it in a container of fairly hot water and see if it opens. If not, replace. One of the 4K`s that I pulled down recently had a blocked by-pass hose. Undo the clamps, flush the hose with water and replace. Also check the small pipes where the hose attaches. If you are running a lot of timing advance can also cause over heating. Check that the distributor is not stuck on full advance. Take the vacuum advance line off the carby and suck the end of it while the car is idling. You will notice a change in engine revs if it is working ok. Grab hold of your fan while the motor is stopped and see if you can detact any excess play in the water pump bearings. To check for cracked head/head gasket, take the radiatot cap off when the engine is stopped, top up the radiator and start the engine. In some cases the pressure from a blown head gasket will make coolant gush out of the top, or in some cases bubbles will appear as the engine idles. try to avoid using radiator flush type additives coz they are all caustic and can result in your alloy head being eaten from the inside out. Same goes for coolant leak stoppers, they can sometimes block and ailing radiator and cost you bucks for a replacement. Hope this helps.

G`day mate, sure sounds like axle bearing to me. There`s no short way around the problem, you just have to replace the bearing and it is best to do both sides at once, coz the other one won`t be far off knackered. Method. Jack the rear end off the ground and remove wheels and brake drums. Remove the bolts/nuts from the bearing flange retainer. This is where it gets tricky. You may need a puller to get the axles out, but try using two levers first. Sometimes they will come out easily and sometimes they are a real b*#@ch. Once you have the axles out you then need to get the old bearings off. This sounds brutal but is the accepted way of removal. You need to place the bearing on some sort of anvil( a flat really strong surface will do it) cover the bearing with some sort of bag like material and then belt hell out of the outer bearing race with a big hammer.(no joke) Be aware that at some time during the process, the outer bearing will shatter, hence the bag like material to keep schrapnel to a minimum. (keep the balls to use in your slingshot lol) Once that stage is reached, using the same anvil and hammer, use a cold chisel at right angles to the inner bearing race and belt it until in cracks on top and then repeat the process on the bottom. This method(cold chisel) is also used to remove the bearing retainer collar, but the material is nowhere near as hard. To replace bearings. place the axles in your mums chest freezer for an hour or so. This shrinks the axles slightly in diameter. Then place the nice new bearings in mum`s oven for about ten minutes at around 100gegrees c. This expands the bearings. Place the bearings over the axle an allow them to slide down to the bearing surface and then using a peice of pipe the same diameter as the inner bearing race, gently tap the bearing until it seats properly. Repeat the heatin process for the retaining collars. Allow to cool/heat naturally, don`t use water. N.B. Clean up the braking area really well if there has been any oil leakage and always check your diff level. Never overfill your diff as this will result in oil getting past your axle seals and it will very quickly destroy brake shoes and wheel cylinder rubber dust covers. I hope that this is of some help to you, but if you don`t have the gear or are not confident that you can do the job, get a proffessional to do it for you. There is nothing worse than having a rear wheel bearing seize because it often results in a broken axle and the rear wheel will depart the vehicle rapidly.

Thanks mate, as soon as I get a chance to catalogue and photograph what is there, it will be open slather in the sales forum. The 3K boys will go nuts!!!

Thanks mate, I`ll give it a try. My mate also has a smith load of KE 20 bits that have been stored for years. He and his sons used to race them in hill climbs and local sprints. I haven`t had a chance yet to go through what is there, but I will as soon as I get the chance. I know that there is a KE 20 roller amongst it all and a heap of interior stuff that was taken out prior to conversion to race cars. Again, thanks.

I`ve been given a few 3k/4k hotty cams, in real good condition and am looking for info as to their specs. I have two that are marked CE 657, one marked CE 701 and one marked LM 298 S. I`m aware that the CE stands for Camshaft Engineering but that company has now shut down in Brisvegas so no info is to be had from them. The CE701 gets a mention in the how to build a hot K motor section but the others are completely unknown to me. Can someone out there help please. p.s. also scored a real nicely ported 4k head with 3k big port manifold, a set of balanced conrods with new 1st oversize pistons and a balanced crankshaft. A bloke that I know is having a clean up of his farm and was going to sell it all for scrap.

G`day again and thanks for all of your valuable comments. What I should really have asked in the beginning is ,has someone actually done a 4afe into ke70 conversion and can they comment constructively. I don`t just have a motor "laying around" so to speak, I have a complete ae 92, running and in very reasonable condition for its age. That car only owes me a couple of hundred bucks and it seems a better idea to me to transplant that motor rather than rebuild my 4kc and still wind up with less horsepower and reliability. I am approaching 60 years of age and am retired so time is not a problem, I have a well equiped workshop and really enjoy modifying/manufacturing stuff. The ke70 is a project that I have waited a long time to do and has taken some 6 months so far, to get it to the stage that it is. It will never be a show car and was never intended to be. Just something to have a bit of fun with and to break the boredom. Again, thanks heaps, but lets keep it relevant to the original question.

Thanks for that mate. I`ve had differing opinions and I`ve almost decided to put it in the too hard basket and rebuild my 4k.

It is without doubt either a 32/36 dgv or dgav weber. The only difference between models is that the dgav has auto choke and the dgv has manual. The choke assembly is often removed to give better breathing and is not really neccessary unless you live at the north pole. The ID marks are on the aluminium base at the opposite end to the throttle linkage. Hope this helps.

G`dqy all, can someone tell me for sure whether a 4afe can be fitted into a ke70 please. My 4kc is just about past its prime and I happen to have a 4afe at my disposal. I have had a look around thenet and it seems to be a possible swap except for the dizzy at the back. I`m aware that there will have to be a cut and shut on the inlet to get it facing the right way. Any info will be appreciated.