ca18 bluebird

how hard was this to do? and whats the going rate of 22r dizzys?

suck through and water meth injection easiest way.

i have an autronic smc for sale pm me for details $1k ono

what are the rose joints worth?

well the car is now defected :dance: :) (not for any of the above ironically, think its fraid seat belt so i will be selling as a cheap defected padoc basher ot whatever ya waqnna do with it

so yeah obviously something is not right. For now i have the coil and headlights hooked straight up to the battery just to get me to work, but don't consider tghis a long term solution. just wondering if anyone has had this prob before on a ke70?

ok found out today that the engine got cassified as dangerous goods and had to be shipped by sea insteed of air. So there is a little set back, but should still be here around friday/sat monday ish. i have tacked up some engine mounts to the crossmenber, i just tried to mimic the ones on the s13 member i have here, but couldnt get the best reading so want to test fit before finishing the welds off. also found out the 16ve i got is a late model one, my mate in nz goes "great news buddy the engine is mega clean its a 2001 version" i was like oh yay but gay. but meh no big deal after all they could have changed the castings just on the 20ve for emmitions/economy (as the 20ve was mated to a cvt auto) or what ever and not the 16ve i don't really know tbh. so will post some updates when i have some, but for now ill have to play the waiting game.

tough

Another reason i choose to start with the 16ve is because what what i have found in my research of these engines is that there is a bit of difference in flow between heads. Now the sr20ve and sr16ve heads are identical in everyway but cams, but there is a big variance in flow figures from standard flowed heads, the earlier castings have seen figures in the high high 270cfm@ 28 inches where as some of the poorer examples are as low as 240. Now that there is the difference between a decent port and polish. Most the sr16ves where made earlier than the 20ve's and therefore seem to flow a bit better, i haven't yet seen a poor flowing 16ve doesn't mean it don't exist but i just haven't seen it. This could be because the head molds weren't replaced regularly/at all and just got sloppy or it could be because the molds where changed to suit pollution standards each year i don't really know its all speculation, but the earlier castings flow best and the later ones flow worse oh yeah the manifold will be taken to my mates work who designs and puts together semi trailers for a living, so i will have more faith in his welding skills and equipment than a zorst shop. In saying that i wouldn't mind a zorst shop to do it

yeah i know its got noting to do with the bore, but i just posted the bore as well as the stroke and knew off hand that the rod length was mid 150's but didn't know the exact measurement so didn't post, but i have looked at it before and knew the f20c rod ratio is closer to the sr20 than it is the sr16ve. But yeah you are right the sr16ve is a stupid rev monster would go nicely with a big turbo and 13,000rpm. thing is you are 100% the sr20 wont like having the absolute crap revved out of it like the 16ve, this is why i am setting it up to make the power a little lower in the power band. However in saying that people in the states wack a set of valve springs in the sr20ve's and rev to 10,000rpm+ with their less balanced 4cw crank. (the sr20ve used a 4counter weight crank to save weight and have it rev up a bit quicker, but at higher rpm it will munch your bearings a lot quicker). There are plenty that rev to 9000rpm all day and have lasted a long time, but the sr20 WILL need a rebuild quicker than a 16ve will simple. Great info dude keep ya posts coming today i swapped my ma61's for a set of wantanabes so the car no longer has the wheels pictures, but i think i will buy another set as i love those rims

oh yeah and does anyone know a mandrel bender in adelaide to make a custom header to my specs? i can weld it all up myself, and even source the tubing if need be but i need mandrel bends made. If i can't find anyone ill just go down to aussie discount mufflers and see if they can make it to my specs

the f20c is an 87mm bore and 84 stoke so the rod ratio of the 16ve is better as it has a 86mm bore and 68mm stroke. In fact its closer to the stroked 2L version of the engine than it is to the 1.6. people often run sr16ve cams in sr20ve's as an upgrade and the sr16ves have more lift durration and overlap. The cam of choice is the n1 288deg 12mm, but i choose the 16ve cams over the n1's becuase of 2 reasons. 1 power from 4500-7000rpm is better with the 16ve's and 2 price. tbh i don't think i need to rev 10,000rpm to make the power i want, but more importantly i want a good midrange and i will not sacrafice this for a few extra kw's. If i fall short i fall short, i would rather the car be fun than be a dyno queen. also there is a lot more to the 280deg than mets the eye, you can't just compare the cam without knowing its ramp angles or overlap. The sr16ve cams actually run 70deg of overlap which helps up top a bit. just as a reference i have seen 110rwkw's out of the standard 16ve with just tune, intake plenum (itb's) and header. thanks for your comments though, great contribution, and you are right i am a bit ambitious but i will post my results either way, but as said earlier i wont be dissapoited if i don't make the power, but will be if it isn't a fun car. also just found out engine should be here next week

tough as car! love the progress and really love the itb manifold

oh yeah of course, forgot the axles would be reversed, i knew my brain wasnt working

but running it upside down.....that wouldn't even change the way it spins would it? i don't know maybe my brain isnt working, but it would still be spinning the same way in my head just starts spinning 180deg before hand

here is the mock up shell

^^^ bingo buddy! and for everyone else that isnt familiar with the engine it has 129kw's standard in 1.6l form it runs vvl (nissans vtec) 280deg 11.1mm lift cams standard i will be running custom headers and intake plenum, as these are the 2 weak major points of the motor and i will drop in a sr20 crank (i still need to find one in good condition so if ya have one shoot me a pm rwd or fwd doesnt bother me) i have figured out a way to mount the rwd box to the fwd engine and there are also some other factors i will have to deal with such as dizzy on the back of the head and so forth, I have a defected and rusted mock up shell here i can hack to get things up and running. to start with ill just keep the dizzy at the back of the head and cut a hole in the firewall. Once she is running good ill convert to cas and probably have to a stand alone ignition comp to run individual coils. If there is a way to run individual coils from the standard ecu easily i would consider this as the timming maps for the sr16ve ecu are quite aggressive.

the only problem i see with e85 in drums, is that due to the high ethanol content it can absorb moisture, so unless it is being kept in a air tight drum it will go off in a few weeks and you will be running a fair amount of hh20 through your injectors and fuel system. 2jz's make enough on pump anyway, combine that the the ke20 shell and i imagine you have a very stupid car. i owned an aristo with all the basics done to it (bout 230rwkw's), the 2jz is a very smooth torquey engine yeah the standard 1.6 runs 11:1 so with the 2L crank it bumps it to 13.5:1. The heads on them are pretty detonation resistant and people have even run 13.5:1 on pump gas, however this will give no extra power and commonly less than 12.5:1 due to the amount of timing retard needed to keep detonation at bay. E85 should solve this this and hopefully run it quite reliably

want to start asap, however the engine wont be here till at least next week. the donk came from nz and i am located in adelaide well ill just send a pm.

ok the engine once stroked will be 86x86 so 8200rpm should be fine. Anyway i will post my results whether i am dissapointed or not. TBH the figure really means nothing to me, its just a goal. If it drives great and is a fun car but makes lss than my goal i wont be dissapointed. bingo there is a enfuee around 5-10 mins from me i was ver very close to buying an f20c, they are a great motor! i have a conection in new zealand that could have got me one here with gearbox, diff and dash for just above $7k nz landed so that would have been a very cool option. There is a reason the japs drop the f20c's in the ae86's cause it would just be soo much fun.

the motor in question is not a 4a. and yes there is a relationship between stroke and revs.

ok i have plenty of reasons: 1. i think high na power really suits the light weight and wheel base of the ke70 rolla 2. high reving na sreamers have a different type of fun than turbo 3. i am no stranger to turbo the amount of turbocharged cars i have owned is into the double digits and i currently have a r33 and a very worked 180sx 4. 150rwkw's in a ke70 should be plenty why would i need 200, also the low down torque of a turbed 4age is pretty substandard 5. i have had this build in my head for a while, so now finnally going ahead with it. 6. how cool is a 150rwkw light weight na rolla! 7. less things to go wrong, don't have to stuff around with blown wastegates, turbos, cracked manifolds, overboosting, all the high heat issues, routing fmic piping yada yada yada 8. well its something different don't see many 150rwkw's na rolla's around but there are plenty of turboed 4a's also to stir the pot a little..... the car will be running all oem parts from rocker cover to sump! so cams, pistons, crank etc

capacity will be 1.6 stroked to a 2L, compression 13.5:1 and revs will be 8200 for now. I am operating within a budget, but obviously something like this wount be too cheap. ill go into more detail when when a bit more progress is made with pic

yep you read correctly should be fun

big difference between the 2 answers here