Captain_Fantastic

yes the test drive was at night. once we went over the bump the lights became much brighter the engine would rev again rather then just splutering from lack of spark and we could use the radio again. since the battery i was using was getting very low it was quite easy to tell when the alternator kicked in.

Hey guys. This is the issue. The car has been munching my battery. after about 3 seconds of fault finding i find that the alternator is in fact not charging my bat. First thing i check is the fuse able links. which were stuffed. so i fix this. Buuut issue is still there. So i get my batt tested. In case that is the issue but its fine. Then i realize my charge light doesn't come on. So i look over the alternator and turns out the wire for the exciter circuit isnt connected to the plus anymore. so i crimp a female blade onto the wire and connect it back up. This seems to fix the issue as the charge light came on when you put the ignition to on, but stayed on after you started the car. i thought this might be ok and i would just have to deal with it but after going for a test drive it became clear that it stil wasn't charging. on the test drive we went over a bump, then the light went out and the charge circuit started working. but abruptly a little while later the light came back on and the car died I am racking my brains trying to think of what to do. need the car for work so i don't have time to strip the loom and find out or do days of fault finding. and atm gunna have to be a bit of a backyard fix till next week. I'm thinking maybe a switch on the wire for the excite wire. turn it on to start the car. then once its on turn it off? i have no idea here. ;) any help would be very much appreciated. Cheers. Jack ps sorry for the fail typing i have been awake for ages. very tired :)

lol I'm pretty sure your cage is gunna weigh way more then the seat. I have always wondered though. looking at the shape of a coupe cage, would you be able to feed the bars down through the speaker holes in the parcel shelf? prob not but i think it would be close.

ah yes of course. *facepalm*

ran like that for 7 years since it was built. easily pulling up to 9, i had it at 9500 once getting 2nd instead of 5ht at the local race track. Still ran sweet aside from carby issues was the only thing. wish i hadnt f@$ked the valves by being a noob now :y: i would agree, but this is on 3 differnt tachos, two stock tacho dash clusters and one after market tacho (unsure of make) edit: stroke in a 5k is 73? and in a 3k its 66? I'm confused?

yep, till it finally died from f@$ked valve stem seals it reved clean past 8, up to 9 sometimes cold rofl. and it wasnt balanced huh? if it 6m shorter then the 5k crank then why would it stick out of the block?

Ok so I'm not actually thinking of doing this, but figured i would put my idea up for scrutinizing by other corolla nuts hehe. Does a 3k crank fit into a 5k? Assuming it does, when you did drop it in you would have a stroke of 6mm less correct?. Now i know what your thinking. "what is he thinking? it wouldn't work because your combustion chamber would be too big, cos of the piston being at 6mm lower at tdc" soooooo, the obvious answer would be to shave the top of the block 6mm. Hahaha, now i know what your thinking now, "what an idiot" But think of it this way, if you pulled it off, you could have a 5k with a bore of 80.5mm plus however much a 60" boreout would add in mm, and a stroke of 66mm Have it Balanced, add a massive cam, pair of sidiez, custom dizzy/advance curve ect Would it create a super high rpm monster or just a shit 5k? if done well? p.s. don't hate tooo hard please, its early in the morning hehe

man it still hits 9k lol, but only 1st gear stand stills now, doesnt have the tork to get into second :)

Yeah I was originally planning to rebuild this motor. But it was a speedway motor, then flogged for about 7 years before I got it, so its well tired. Its hard to decide what to do. but I guess it wouldn't be to hard for me to strip down the motor and give it new rings and a freshen up. Its got some really strange problems thou, like it gets realyl severe detonation randomly every now and again, and cutting out at 120kmph. The biggest problem i have is that the valve train sounds like a bucket of coins falling onto a metal bench between 1.2k and 3.5k rpm. Once I get an engine stand and another car sorted to drive around in ill strip it down and get working on it. Apparently ACL make a race rebuild kit for the 4k motor. comes in 20thou and 40thou oversized for about 500 bucks. Might be worth looking into.

so I have found a high ace parked in a paddock quite close to where i live. I'm thinking go and offer them 200 bucks for it, tow it away, rip out the 5k, stick my cam in it and then into my car. bit more tork down low and cheap replacement until I finally figure where I am gunna go with my car. I assume that there is no such thing as 4k and 5k cam? but just k motor cams? Also, do I need anything special to run the 5k or will all my 4k ancillary's do fine?

Ah yeah i was forgetting about the Rwd problem. so with the 7k, you need to modify the sump, and there is a problem with the gearbox? can i just use my 4k clutch to mate it up with a ke70 5 speed? is this all? 7k seems the best way to go. easily modified to fit in the ke70 and still easy to work on tune ect. How much more powerful then a 5k would this be? is it worth the extra effort? and matt, how well does your rev? still want to confirm they arn't to much of a truck engine.

hmm 7k seems an option. anyone actually used one in their rolla? i have been told that they are a bit of a truck engine? and i know what you mean about a high reving street car. its annoying enough to drive at the moment. you simply can't drive it down low. that being said i do want to be able to wind it out a bit every now and again. what did the 7k come out in? so if i can pick up a ae82 its got pretty much every thing i need for a 4age install? or did some of them come out with 4ac's? thanks for the input guys, very helpful. hadn't even thought of a 7k.

Ok guys second time corolla owner first time modifier here. bit of a lurker when it comes to rollaclub. Basically i want more power. At the moment I have a 4k High comp extractors and zorst 32/36 webber oversized pistons big unknown cam had a custom re curved ice dizzy but it broke so its got a standard one on atm. After having some HUGE problems with the car for about 1 month of it not running or running but shit or whatever i replaced before mentioned dizzy, the leads, the coil and the plugs and then it started working. buuut must have stuffed it up because it ended up pinging like a mofo. wondered what it was for a while but didnt know. then clicked too late. damage was done. it now has completely stuffed rings and blows more smoke then an old diesel. If you take the oil cap off after running it for even like 30 seconds you get bulk oilly air and smoke coming out :wink: anyways. sooner or later it will need a freshen up. after thinking about it a LOT. i am completly unsure of what road to go down. i have had an engine builder up here quote me 3500 for a worked 4k with 5k head. ACL race rebuild kit (pistons rods bearings ect) 40 thou oversized Balanced Big cam Lightened flywheel. Will rev to 9k and make power till its stop reving they say. The quote was for me taking the car to them and picking it up finished. BUUT i think that is a hell of alot of money for a k motor. even if it does crack 100hp. thats not 3.5k well spent at all. Building it myself is the next obvious option, and i read Tough 4k but tbh I'm not very confidant in my engine building ability's. I am looking for other options. the next thing would be to go 4age some might say. but then i think. if i am going to be changing gear box engine cross member peddlebox prob diff as well.. i might as well go bigger then a 4age. maybe something like 13bt? done alot of searching around but it made things worse knowing there are so many options! basically i have no idea where to go from here or what to do. just wondering if anyone has come across a similer situation and wanted to go something other then 4age? cheers! jack

http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1467&st=0 ^^^ this is definitely my favorite corolla build of all time. should be able to get some ideas of what to run from that, he has a sr20 with custom solid mounts, s13 box with hole in floor and a blue bird diff. some of the fabrication in that build is amazing. good luck on you drifter build mate

man if you are keen to keep her (she sounds like a nice little wagon) maybe its worth getting one of those rust prevention modules that they fit to 4WD's that go to the beach. I'm not gunna go into how they work, (you might already know, if not google is your friend) but they should do alot to stop any more rust from forming. they work great on 4wd's that are frequant beach visitors. i have always believed they would work well on a sedan/wagon too. might be work a look into so you don't have to sell her other wise id probly agree with these other guys we need photos, but probly be looking above the 600 mark, if the rust isnt too bad. hope i helped at all! good luck

well the carby it's self is insulated by the intake manifold, so it doesnt actually get that hot compared to other bits, and the standard set up doesnt have special a special heat shield there so i figured that the webber wouldn't either. from memory doesn't it actually have like a mechanism for heating up the underside of the intake manifold using the exhaust from stock? and even if the heat insulation of garden hose might not be great, its definitely better then nothing. after doing all this the car seemed to be running a bit better now. however still getting the problem every now again. i still hadn't got the new leads yet though so i headed around to my mates house where there was a wrecked Nissan bluebird. apparently the engine had been rebuilt arround 10 000k ago so i assumed that meant the leads only had 10 000k on them. this was alot better then the amount of k's mine had on them so i swapped them ovre and honestly the car hasnt run this well since i put that motor in. seems to be fixedzored now so i am really happy, thanks for all your help and suggestions guys :cool:

hmmm yes what your saying is definetly plausible i guess. but yeah mine happens suddenly. i don't think the temps could drop so suddenly that they freeze up like that. i would seriously never even have thought of that hey. i put some poor mans heat shielding on the fuel hose today. (some of that coiled plastic stuff and them a bit of garden hose lol) and i checked the fuel pump. it was barly even pumping. couldn't even draw fuel into the filter. so i swapped that. i also swapped the coil back to the standard coil. after this it seemed to be running really well. but then on the way to my mates house to drop off some tools i borrowed it did it again. well, not nearly as bad. wound out in 3rd it seems to just loose power. not violently just felt like as if you suddenly took your foot off the peddle. but the peddle was flat to the floor. let throttle out then after a bit it seemed fine again. did it twice more on the way to my friends house so we did a bit of fault finding while i was there. we checked the plugs and they were a really light brown, indication of running really quite lean from the color. so we wound out the mixture screw a bit (:cool: it was already a fuel guzzler) then re adjusted the idle. i was really happy at this stage as it was idling better then ever before judging by the feel of the rev and the sound it was making. so i headed back home and same thing happen. the mixture didnt change anything. so after today this is the plan. new leads get the dwell tester out and do the timing and do the spark gaps see how ti goes. if all that fails i guess it truly is time for swapping back from the 32/36 to the stocko carb :D at least it is driveable now and it isnt trying to self destruct anymore. so much better behavior then before ill keep you guys posted

wow i would never have thought about i icing up. ill definetly have a look but I'm very doubtful. my engine bay gets realllly farking hot lol. and i live in darwin. its unusual for us to get temps below 30 degrees.

standard carby goes back on tomorrow. i was talking to someone today and they said that if the fuel line is too close to the engine, (since its a flexible hose to the carby not the original copper line) that the fuel might be boiling in the line? and the spluttering is when you goe only spurts of fuel going into the bowl. and that once the revs drop for whatever reason and the line cools a little bit, the fuel pump can regain the pressure and then its all fine?

The problem has only recently come back and it is doing it randomly not when flogging it. it didn't come back while i was doing a burnout or anything either. i don't think the way it gets driven is directly the cause of the problem. i took it to a mechanic and he told me that it has a vacuum leak around the throttle shaft on the carby. but he also said that it would only bother it at idle. thinking about putting a standard carby back on and seeing if it has the same problem. after i change the leads and the plugs. to answer kiahn it has newish leads not the stock o ones

which fuel line? do you mean from the tank to the engine or from the filter to the engine? the same problem was experianced with this engine in another corolla. so i believe that the problem is to do with things attached to the engine. like the fuel pump or the catby or the leads or somthing i am going to replace the spark plugs and leads and see if this makes a difference. then take the fuel pump and the carby to a specialist.

yeah i have noticed that if i douse the outside of the carby in wd40 or rp7 it runns much better for a very short time. everyone has told me so far that it is fuel or ignition or both aswell. but i tryed the electric fuel pump and i have replaced the coil twice. still happens :dance: i can't afford to go 4age this is shit. sigh

Ok guys i really really need your help. I have a ke70 with a 4k. it has over sized pistons, ice ignition dizzy, large cam, a 32/36 webber and it is balanced. lately it has been having an issue which is causing it to... do stuff. i can't explain it. Every now and again it will suddenly die in the ass. Like when you run out of fuel it will jerk along. It is always at completely random revs/speeds and sometimes it doesn't happen at all. some times if you back off the throttle for a bit it will stop and you can drive along without stopping. other times its a lot more violent to the point that it almost feels like its gunna break something, and you have to pull over. You can wait for a bit then drive off as if nothing happen. everyone who has been in the car believes that it feels like it is running out of fuel. It has been happening more and more frequently. I figured the fuel pump must be on the way out, so i installed an electric fuel pump. This didn't help the problem at all and now it wont even idle. If you turn it on it will go from about 50 rpm(no joke, each time it feels like it actually has died) back up to 1000 then back down. I have no idea what could be happening and this is my only mode of transportation. i realise i havnt explained myself very clearly so please feel free to ask more questions but i reallly need to be able to fix this in the next day or so. Help me rollaclub, your my only hope.

Name: Jack Car: '82 Flat Front keto Motor & Driveline: 4k with a couple mods. big cam, 32/36 down draft weber, ice ignition dizzy, high comp bottom end, extractors with 2" pipe back to single muffler with dumpy and engine is balanced for revs. Suspension & Brakes: Pedders lowered springs in the rear and sock in the front, got some lowered pedders to go in there too but need some spring compresers. breaks are so stock it hurts. Wheels & Tyres: 13x5.5 performance challenger globes up front and 14x7 performance challenger globes up back. not sure on tyres? Interior: Tacho dash installed, Luigi steering wheel, jvc head unit with 3" pioneers up front, with pioneer 6x9 up back with a 400w rms pioneer sup in the boot Body: Straight except for a dent in rear left passenger door. Other: got a pair of Cobra Classic Clubman bucket seats to go in too. *Put pictures here* <- pic is of when i first got it. so back wheels are different now