charlie835egg

VERY INTERESTED. Just got to town, moved from the Isa, previously In townsville. Been on the Old Corolla list when it was the Yahoo mailing list, man that was uni days. Looking forward to being able to do a cruise now I am in the SE corner, BUT... OK my corolla Gef/EGG is inbound on a truck from the Isa, BUT I have to make a few quick things happen, like insurance and getting lights working, and many other legality things. And on that point, someone got a car trailer I could borrow to pick her up with. She drives BUT mr. Police man would not have to look very hard to send me off the road. Oh also it is a highway run too, I have recently rebuilt and she has not even done 100km yet. mmmm 100km/hr in 4th gear, might not be that nice to her. COUNT ME IN, if my corolla is coming I will come in the Navara ute and be maintenance backup (we all know it is a possibility). Is the camp destination dog friendly? Want to bring my cattledog. Let me know. Later Charlie 835EGG

Thanks for that I'll go a searching. And yes Jamie, if there's a step by step out there who'd be stupid enough not to look it up before they attempt it. Who seriously wants to reinvent the wheel (might just be a bit hard to get a patent on :cool: )

OK see the sense in that. Thanks for the explaination Nick. Bit of history, thanks. Puts a few things in perspective.

I need a link to the blue plate thing I think. Have to have a search of Qld transport. But if anyone's in the mood what does LA1, LB1, and LD1 mean. Also haven't got the car to look at but was stanza a coil sprung. I don't remember seeing leafs, nor do I remember looking tooo hard either. Additiaonlly are Stanza's a slight bit wider on the wheel tracks?? I did look at the front strut towers (of Stanza) and they looked puny in comparision. Is this a optical illussion, or is this observation true. I really need 2 car's,; my corolla the Stanza a tape measure and me to be all in the same vicinity at the same time. I'll just have to hope for a bottle of spare time for Christmas eh. Later Charlie835egg I guessed it. Good. I did alot of guessing which ones true; Hydro clutch, shifter hole, blue plate....

Right this is irritating. I can't search L16 motor, because L16 is less than four letters. Was trying to avoid the inevitable "DATSUN in a TOYOTA" reply but I can't. And before any google freak say"Use google with wwww.rollaclub.com domain" swallow those words cos it don't work. I've searched datsun L16 and got 2 whole topics. Right how do you search it, anyone remember any other keywords for a good L motor discussion. Don't want to insult the person who set up foroum, but the search limit thing is annoying. Out of interest who did Pioneer the foroum. Later Charlie835egg

This topic is timely. I've just come into possesion of a L16 motor from my mates rustbucket Stanza (the front left tierod pulled out of the chassis). Its got the dog leg box too. (SWEET 2nd ->3rd changing) and it has 5 speeds ohhh ahhh! Nhillau can you please expand on the EASY slip in bit about the engine mounts and the gearbox mounts. Do you need to weld in datsun mounts? The gearbox cross member, does it need holes redrilling?? Is another hole need to be cut to pop up the shifter?? What did you do about the hydro clucth on box (looks at pic and notices dy clutch). And just checking, the tailshaft was the right length. No shortening? (crosses fingers.) I see you took the datsun throttle linkage. Sorry but it looks akward. Note your carby is chipped. Later Charlie835egg PS Do we "legally" need to blue plate this?

Thanks for the rundown Doug. Edit for my first message; the Weber is actually a 28/36 DCD. I was wondering why you were refering to a DGV for a while. So my wrong! I'm goign to take you up on your advice for all the headwork. Thanks for the advice for the 3bolt flange on extractors, but one question on the exhaust size. Why so 1 7/8". Sounds to be splitting hairs, so I'm guessing there is some calc behind this maybe, or just bit of gut feeling from experience between 1 3/4" and 2" setups you've come across? Any insight on this please. For the diff ratio drop, I've got the 4.11 ratio, which I thought was standard for a KE3X/K35X. so where do 4.33 for Borg Warner's hide. behind autos/stationwagons? Thanks again for you valuable advice Doug. I'm in Townsville Redwarf, so the Brisbane shop is not of so much use to me unfortunately. I think I have a good shop lined up in townsville here. touchwood! Don't suppose anyone knows of someone in Townsville who makes a Cams spec 6 point cage?? How's peoples contact's? That'll be next after I get the engine running well and front end suspension grounded. Later charlie835egg

Man holes in the floor. That's so simple it could work. Thanks for that gem of knowledge. This'll save cutting off the roof. Thanks all. Thanks for the link Toycrash, its handy. Will get some pics for you Ted. But basically its a masicured KE70. Later Charlie835egg

Hi all, First off I'm part of Rover Scouts and we have a amatuer offroad racing event called BASH. What you'll all find intreging is that we have an old KE70 with a 6" lift, Mazda VC engine and running gear. I'll have to post a pic of the view of the rear lift. It looks so wrong. We have stringent safety specs (its CAMS really) and we need a 6 point rollcage. Was talkign to chris the guy responsible for buiding it and he was saying we're goning to have to cut the roof to do some of the weld for the cage. I striaght off said BULLSHIT. then he asked how and I had no freaking idea. The weld I'm talking about is this one in the top of the pic of Fook's rollcage. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...opic=1564&st=30 HOW DO THEY DO THE WELD ON TOP BETWEEN THE ROOF? This has got me perplexed. And I'm sure the solution is not a hole saw. Later Charlie835egg

Hi all, Haven't been in the scene for a while but with the degree finished after a couple of exams it is time to blow a bit of money on my beloved KE55 corolla and get it on the road in good shape. First off I HAVE a bigport head (bought from Brad Mav a while ago) and I'm going to use this on my 4K. (so no discussion about waste of money on bigports Jamie) I've come to he realisation that I'm going to have to get a head shop to port and work the head. No home porting like Stew does, I'll try it some other day. The valve seat don't look crash hot so I'm thinking a bit bigger valves with a double angle job will be in hand and valve stems. So the purpose of the topic is to ask firstly what bigger valves people have used in their 3K/4K heads in particular kangaroosa, Xany, and especially RedDwarf. I don't want shrouding, and I read that there is a nice guide in one a book by David Vizard (i've never seen one of these books yet). Anyone got one for sale?? Of course I'm going to be ask what cam I'm going to use, and I'm not 100% yet but I'm just going to get a Tighe regrind. So lets say the Tighe cam profile 104: (25-65 270 degrees adv dur, 0.398" lift) on Jamie's FAQ advice. Now comes springs, I don't need doubles for under 0.4" lift, but would doubles not detension and valve bounce would be a non-event with much higher resonance?? This will probably come down to a $ thing, so I might be sticking with a single spring. And anohter "What exhaust?" I'm thinking 2", but I don't want a blap blap so maybe a 1 3/4" for better flow and bit more ground clearance. Just be a pipe kink system with a straight through I think. Already got a set of cheap hurricance extractors running at the moment. And maybe asked "What carby?" Weber 32/26 which I got in a box. And of course the question of "What do you want to build the car for?" will arise. So in list of priority; -Amatuer Rally, hill climb and motorkana. Mind not overly competative, jsut wanta have fun and live. -daily drivable, so that's why no SILLY ARSE cams and blap blap exhaust systems. -good handling, that's why I'm sticking with a 4K. Thanks in advance to the community Later Charlie835egg PS pity to see the death of the Yahoo Oldcorollas. Its easier to search. But its move with the times I guess.

Anyone gone/thought of going dry sump setup?? Bit of a challenge.

yep 4k, Have not really noticed this much blow by before at low revs. Does it noticeably reduce blow by when you warm up the engine?? Is a K engine crankcase in vacuum normally at least with standard carb. Got a weber now so that may have been it, though compression is still down. Can't remember pressure values, will need to do again, and with the oil sealing test. Just need to find a mate to crank it over for me while I do it. Another question, Don't you blow smoke when there is bad blow-by, as you get a bit too much oil in the chambers. Oh by the way the plugs were clean when I took them out to do comp. test. later Charlie835egg PS not expecting anyone to tell me the exact nature of my problem. Just like some people to bounce things off and provide suggestions of issues I may have overlooked.

First post here, but not a newbie to corolla on the net. Looks like this is the reason for oldcorolla email list's quiteness, so I'll move with the times and with a bit of luck I won't get nazy moderatored either (ah), Now I've had my bitch, I'll continue on. Got an engine that has low compression in all cylinders, but even in all. its got a good bit of pressure on the oil breather into the air filter. Idling you can cover oil breather and get a good hiss of build up. To give an indication, I reckon I could blo up ballons on oil breather ( not that I've tried, yet). The enngines an old toyota push-rod, so could it be blow through from the rings? Before you ask, now I haven't tried oil in spark plug oil then try a compression test. Or is this problem a valve guid wear prob?? One other point no blowing smoke out exhaust. any good advice is apreciated. Later Charlie835egg