KEI069

1.5 inch pipe is to small. If your trying to gain a little power you really need 1.75 inch pipe with a good straight through sports muffler and resonator.

To try and eliminate some of the noise use a rubber mounting. I found the little rubber blocks used on vl commodore airbox mounts to the body to work quite ok.

Wow thats awesome! Would you have any before/after dyno sheets of your extractors for curiosities sake? Unfortunately i don't have any dyno sheets, it has been a cuople of years since ive made extractors but i was working closely with the Alfa club backe then when i came across this information. The Alfa guys started a budget race class for members where only early Alfa boxers and Alfettas with the 1.5 litre flat four engines were used and only modifications allowed were intake/exhaust and suspension/tyres, to try keep it fun and competitive and most of all cheap. We had two cars running 4-1 design pipes using the formula and four cars using 4-2-1 design pipes using a slightly modified version of the formula. The rest of the exhaust sytem was the same on all cars which was 2" with one straight through muffler and a resonator. Both cars with the 4-1 pipes were the leading cars during most races (when other problems didnt arise) I'm not saying this is the only method just one i found that seem to work very well. Another industry guru is DiFillipo who also supports this theory or similar and he does do a lot of dyno work. All the best guys, i hope the info helps someone a little at least. cheers Justin

surely that must belong to humphrey bear

I know everyone has their own opinion on this topic, but i have run my own exhaust shop for about thirteen years and have proven many times that 4-1 extractors work. The formula for working out the extractor design is quite involved. I will do my best to explain. as the exhaust valve opens- just comes of its seat- it generates a pressure wave in the manifold itself. This is a positive wave which travels down the pipe- it is not exhaust gas, but a wave travelling within the gas, at the speed of sound.When it reaches the end of the pipe it suddenly expands and as it does, by the laws of physics a reverse wave of negative pressure starts to travel back up the pipe. that wave travels up the pipe back into the cylinder and arrives with a certain amount of withdrawal power because its pressure at that point is considerably lower than existing cylinder pressure. The art of tuning or designing exhaust manifolds is to create a length and size of exhaust pipe so that this negative pressure wave arrives back at the combustion chamber just during the point of overlap- just when the piston has come up on its exhaust strokeand has finished pushing the gas out of the cylinder. So the basic formula for choosing first of all the primary pipe length is 5100 x ET primary length = RPM x 6 ET is the timing in degrees of the exhaust valve from when it starts to open up to TDC - the amount before BDC plus 180 degrees. RPM is the speed at which you wish to tune the engine, in most cases the point at which you know the engine is going to develop maximum power. This is the primary pipe length in inches form the exhaust valve head, so don't forget you must subtract the lengthof the exhaust port from the actual pipe. The primary pipe should contain twice the swept volume of the cylinder with which we are working. Suppose cylinder volume is 500cc therefore twice swept volume is 1000cc Divide 1000cc by 16.4 to bring it to cubic inches Divide by 3.14 to find the square root. multiply by two This gives us the internal diameter of the pipe. Always work up to the next available pipe size to allow for bends in primary pipes that create a restriction. All four pipes should join into a collector. the finish of the primary pipe should be as sudden as possible so the pulse wave itself knows where it is finishing. In summary if you can be bothered workin this out you will have a set of properly tuned extractors that work. Have fun.

although that has to be a one off custom job is it based on an early corvette?

Ok, I'm sure some people will disagree with me here but the only extractors that work properly are 4 into1 design pipes with equal length runners. Power and torque will both be gained across the entire rev. range. the 4-2-1 style pipes referred to as tri-y's are mainly used to replace broken/cracked manifolds or when space it at a minimum. Although these pipes do give an increase over a standard manifold they wont out perform a properly made tuned length 4-1 set. There is an equation to work out the length of the primary pipes which i don't have handy at the moment but i will try to find it for you. Cheers Justin

if its an early 1980's its probably only a 4K and it wont even have an electronic dizzy

I'd be looking at your leaf spring shackles, not real hard to bend these.

Seeing as though you have already removed the cylinder head, you can't do any tests for the cause of the problem. Your best bet is to take the head to a reconditioning workshop and get them to pressure check it, may have a small crack somewhere. Be worth throwing a new thermostat in at the same time Good luck with it.

Gday Ken, I used KE70 discs and calipers on my KE10 using the KE20 hubs and KE30 backing plates/caliper mounts. The KE70 backing plates don't bolt straight on although you may be able to redrill the monting holes(not to sure). don't know about the master cylinder but i use a RX4 master cylinder which fits in quite nicely with very little modification and gives good pedal feel. cheers Justin

I currently have two 13x4.5 steel mazda rims getting widened to 13x6. I supplied two complete rims and the wheel repairer is removing the outer rim from its centre and replacing it with a wider outer rim, which he keeps in stock. Most widths are available.This is costing around $60-70 each

Id be checking the thermostat to make sure its opening all the way and check the opening temp, mid to high 80C should work fine. When the engine is hot leave the car running and see if both the top and bottom radiator hoses are both really hot to touch. If not you may have a water flow problem. Hope this helps

All Corona's had solid front discs. I think the tie rod end holes are differnt between corolla and celica . hope this helps a little.

spot on man perfect old school style.

I wouldn't be expecting to remove 4 inches of ride height without the diff hitting the floor. Plus the rear leaf springs would be inverted and give a stiff as ride with no handling capabilities.

I'm wanting to upgrade the brakes also - would be ideal to have something that goes onto the struts but not priority I would rather upgrade the brakes to something a little bigger than ke20-ke30 etc ive heard of some using rx7 brakes? - if so what master cylinder set up was used for the system? How ya doin, nice to know another ke10 is still on the road The ke30 brake upgrade onto the ke10 is a popular option as you can use your original struts and keep the tens 4x110 pcd. you need to use ke20 hubs with ke30 discs and mounting hardware and the ke55 caliper(girlock) works quite well. this is more than adequate of stopping a ke10. A good master cylinder to use is a mazda rx4 which will fit with minor modification. This is a dual circuit and has the reservoir mounted onto it, new steel brake lines will need to be made. With the front suspension i personally don't like the transverse leaf, so get rid of it. By using a heavier rate front coil spring, handling will be much improved. Ke20 suspension components are commonly used on the 10s strut hope this helps a little

Surely not. Corvettes are fiberglass and all those Cobra replicas are fiberglass and the new Nissan X-trails have got plastic front guards. Whats the world coming too if you can't have some fiberglass guards on ya corolla

Theres also a couple of oz guys doin a mag called chopped, mostly oz cars but traditional style rods. Nice tech write up inside back cover of painting techniques. only two editions so far but a good read if your interested.

gday philbey, that is one awesome project man. i love that stuff. hope it all goes to plan for ya and can't wait to see build pics. I'm currently putting together a KE10 for the missus but after that ive got a 36 dodge pick-up cab to turn into a rat style truck. Those american mags are such a cool source for inspiration. quite like ol skool rodz too. anyway good luck with it all.

the whole point of having bigger ports is to flow more air/gas, so you put a bigger cam in to hold the 'same size' valve open longer and TA DA , more flow

borg warner has a removable backing plate and jap diff unbolts from the front, has a smooth housing when looking at it from the back of the car.

A scan tool plugs directly into the cars ecu (computer). Having it plugged in cannot make the problem worse. The scan toll should also be able to give you live or active data, and this is where you should be looking for the problem. Drive the car with the scan tool connected and when it stalls see if you can locate the missing input.

Your idle issue will more than likely be an issue with leaking or incorrectly set up carbs. Did you have them balanced correctly? I agree with with this, it sounds like you have an air leak somewhere. The vacuum pump is used mainly to supply vacuum to the booster in engines operating with low vacuum conditions such as wild cams, boosted situations. Dragcars are a different setup altogether.