KEI069

You’re right it was bloody difficult to sign in. nice starwagon, spent my apprenticeship working on these. its funny, I keep checkin this forum every now and again, mainly reading banjo’s posts about efi and there is very little activity from anyone else. anyway hello rollaclub, hope everyone is well!

Here is a hot K engine from Warspeed, it is an awesome build

Holy shit, that will be a handful

Agree, can’t wait too see more

At least there is progress mate 👍

That’s awesome man, good to see a proper k powered project. I'm about to fit a trimatic into my thing aswell, did you have to massage the tunnel at all?

It should all go together without any dramas, you’ll laugh when you drive it and find second and fourth gears in the k40 identical to the toyoglide

Gday mate, welcome to the club. such a great little car, many fun times ahead . reckon your first thing will be an engine and you may was well grab yourself a 5k, and a 5speed box to suit if you can still find one. happy hunting and enjoy. cheers Justin

You could try the guys at Shockworks in Monbulk, not sure if they can rebuild your koni's but worth a phone call, they are super knowledgable. I think their phone number is on their Facebook page.

Nice work, looks sweet!

Really, that's a lot of coin to throw at a k engine and so not necessary. if run suck through you can use almost any carb you want as long as you can find the right tuner, or go blow through and find the right carb for want you want to achieve (dedicated blow through carb or seal the whole carb in a box) Just for your information I run standard cast Pistons, standard rods and standard head bolts with a genuine Toyota head gasket and 8psi of boost

A 7" rim might just fit on the rear but it will be out the front guard, a 6" rim sits flush under the guards edge regardless of offset, which means you won't get it low. I ran a 15 x 6 on the rear with a 205 tyre and a 15x 5.5 with a 195 tyre on a previous ke10 ( don't remember offset) and the didn't rub at all.

Ok, where to start. So like everyone has said about the rear, reset leafs work well, but, if you want it low the springs will be inverted and the ride won't be the best. (Who cares about ride quality anyway, it's all about the look) Now the front. Coilovers are a good option although all the ones I have experienced have been harsh and decent bumps feel exaggerated through the steering. Most shocks are to 'heavy' for a lightweight 10. I haven't found a great setup yet, although I am looking at going back to an oil filled shock (feral4k might chime in here) after a few years on the road, I've managed to bend a strut tower and its support that goes to the firewall. My opinion on this is that with the leaf removed all force is put through the strut towers and not transferred through the front crossmember. unfortunately when it comes to ke10s there really isn't a lot of good info around and its pretty much trial and error.

That looks badass, nice work. quick question, are you using a quick steer knuckle (shorter steering arm)? or is that just a roll centre adjuster.

Not sure if it would work but look at a TA22 celica front, it might go close!

Clive cams in ferntree gully will do what ever you want with a hydro cam, they did mine and even sourced a replacement when I gave them one too far gone. All the power for k engines hides in the head, so port it properly. with the comp and carbs your planning you should make good power, 90-100rwhp should be achievable and be fairly streetable

I completely agree with coln72. There is no need to convert to solid cam. i turn my 5k to 8000rpm regularly without the need to adjust tappets (bonus). and although I'm using a supercharger I still only need a 32/36 weber so twin side draughty wil be more than enough (it's only a 1500cc engine) . As for the comment above about torque, I'm making 359nm

Yep, that fits. Nice job mate!

Only just seen this thread and don't know why they said it can't be done. I run the same diff with l.s.d But drum brake setup, shortened to suit my KE10. The work was done about ten years ago. I remember The diff place having dramas cutting the splines cos it wasn't a common spline count Can't for the life of me remember what axles were used though! Glad you got it sorted, I reckon keeping the Toyota diff is the right choice, it just looks Correct installed

So where are these photos of the Rolla in its finest wedding attire? Traditional white ribbon or colour coded orange?

Now that's a worthy update, nice going, looks like a very cool setup!

Always up for a good read mate, let's see this update! Hope there's pictures

Toyota winterfest is on Monday at sandown racecourse

^^^ I think you've got your info a bit mixed up. Tri flows are empty at the ends and glass packed in the centre around the baffle tubes. Straight through are the only sports muffler I ever use, on everything! It's a misconception they're too loud, it All depends on muffler volume, the bigger it is the quieter it will be. All reputable brands are dual skinned Canons are a different thing all together, most are cheap junk with little internal packing and thin walled stainless Making them noisy and generally sound crap. To the OP, if it sounds alright now with no muffler just weld a straight through resonator into the tailpipe, it should sound good With little drone in the cabin.

Yeah just checking out the Boogaloo Invitational hotrod show