bluterus

Done some more work. Bought a Kelway Strut Brace and painted the end's anodised blue. Polished my Intake manifold and painted the throttle body. Cleaned up the TVIS fitted blue silicone vacuum lines. Got my New flywheel. Got my Braided turbo lines. Got to rig up the oil drain in the sump then fit the flywheel. Also I painted all my water pipes silver and pulled apart my windscreen wiper motor and painted that and a few other things.

Never even thought of one. I have soo many different ones made up. Cause I work in steel fab I just make them out of pieces of rod and pipes.

Cheers man. Just find a cheap 4AGE and rebuild it. If you're gonna rebuild it and replace most things then the cheapest one you can get will do.

Me too but hey I really really wanted to do a corolla anyways and the rolla is going to be 100 times better. I wasn't upset at all when I pranged it. I jumped on the net and started looking for corolla's the next day lol.

Yeah I was amazed I tried it and was like wow took me like 5 mins and saved me $50 on a tool I won't use much.

I know this is an old thread but thought I'd would list the easiest and cheapest way to do this. Things needed: 8mm Socket to Suit 1/4" Drive Short 1/4" Extension 1/4" Wratchet or one of them screwdrivers with magnetic bits. 2 A4 pieces of paper Water What to do Soak the two pieces of paper with water Rip small pieces of paper up and shove them inside the bearing. Will probably get a whole sheet in. Once its full hit it in with the socket on the extension till the socket end is even with the bearing then put the wratchet on and twist and pull it out. Pack more paper in till it is full and hit again. Repeat till it comes out. Thanks goes to a guy on youtube I found this on there and it works easy as took like 5 mins. Pilot bearing removal

So I didn't get much done over the weekend as I had my Sister down from Newcastle so was entertaining her on Sunday and Saturday helped a mate move house with my truck. But that's worked out good because as payment he's going to help me with the body work. All I got done was pulled the alternator apart painted it aluminium silver, Painted the rear cover high temp gloss black and the pulley anodised blue. I think it came out alright.

Cheers man! I was originally going to go red and black but thought not many are blue and I like blue. I got a Kelway strut brace the other day so going to anodise blue the ends like the pulleys and have the polished bar. Probably will leave the intake manifold the plain silver.

Cheers man. Will get the brake lines and fuel lines out tonight from the front to rear as they are rusty as hell. Going to get all new ones. I'm busy this weekend so not much will happen but the following weekend I should have started on the body work. LOL surprisingly not. Isn't a Lucida a Toyota aswell? Saw some great cars at drift attack on Saturday. A FWD Celica with DRIFT across the windscreen and a Prelude with Gran Turismo The Real Driving Simulator across the top of the windscreen lol they also were covered in other stickers and had terrible body kits.

Ok so on Sunday I did some real progress on the rolla. I trial fit the engine so I could weigh down the front and finish bolting up the swaybar and tightening the LCA's. I Also pulled out all the trailing arms, painted them and replaced the bushes, installed 18mm rear adjustable swaybar, adjustable panhard rod, lowered springs, Boge turbo shocks. I gave the diff a quick hit with black paint since it was all rusty but don't care too much about it as Ill be pulling it out for another diff. Just gotta body deaden the wheel arches, fuel tank and area around the tank then bodywork can commence. This car I saw the other day for shits and giggles

Yeah it fully dries but like you said because it is of a porous nature and it is very soft dirt and anything sticks to it. So yeah you could wash it clean. My new XR8 use to look like the corolla in the arches now after 110,000kms it looks greyish coloured and a lot has come off from being sandblasted with rocks and road grime. It would be easier spending the $25 and redoing it. Anyways update time. Got my new bearings packed and rotors fitted will be lowering it today and bolting up the swaybar. I'm using the crappy looking AE86 discs I had for sale just to get it registered then going to throw on my FC brakes. Reason for this is the 86 ones look stock whereas the FC's certainly don't and I would need it engineered. This thing will be engineered once the brakes are on but I really don't want to have that hassle before I get it on the road.

For the guards man I didn't do as much prep as the steering components. I just washed them with soapy water as you would wash the car. Then sprayed them with good degreaser in a spray bottle like a concentrate you mix yourself not that cheap export can stuff that stuff is crap. Then I used the guerney and washed the degreaser off then just wiped it down with prepsol (wax and grease remover) After that I sprayed the guards using K&H spray on body deadener and a body deadener spray gun. The spray gun is a special gun designed for spraying things like fish oil and body deadener. I didn't bother with fish oil as a ute I had and sprayed I fish oiled the whole entire thing interior and all and it still rusted. The way I see it is if its got rust no matter what you do its going to come back eventually oh except if you use stainless panels. Mine got rust back in other parts though. This is a body deadener gun This is a similar product to what I used same can but different label was just called spray on body deadener. I found the can didn't fit my gun like the thread on the can was too small but it didn't matter I just held the can with one hand and sprayed with the other and it worked fine. The body deadener is black How its sprayed is how it came out of the can you use a fair bit though as it doesn't cover very well at all. The first coat looks like you've put hardly any on. I'd say it wont stay that nice glossy shine for long though as shitloads of dirt will stick to it. You could prime it I guess and put a 2pac black over it.

Everything was prepped by degreasing, Rub down with 400 sand paper, clean down with thinners then clean down with wax and grease remover. The steering components were painted in VHT High temp gloss black its from autobarn like $15.99 a can. The arches I used K&H spray on body deadener from autobarn in a can $25 for 1L and used a spray gun I have here specifically for spraying that and fish oil. 1 can would do all four wheel arches and guards.

Sure did! Last night painted them and put them in got the shocks bolted up. Just put some grease on them. Painted the hubs just got to pack new bearings in then throw the hubs back on. Look at it its like brand new!

Yeah non adjustable will be fine if you already have the TRD just run it and see if your happy if not later on go bigger.

Yeah i got a full superpro kit too they're good stuff. I'm running an 18mm on the rear. I got them adjustable so I can change them both stiffer and softer and I want the rear stiffer if I'm going to drift then softer for track racing. I'd be going an 18mm at least but it all depends what you're setting it up for. I don't know what the stock is but it wouldn't be far off 16mm.

Sounds like you are around the same with yours. Fortunately for me it was still good weather when I did the engine bay. Bad thing now is its all cold weather so even though I have a booth i can't paint cause it will blush. What sort of swaybar are you running? If its a non adjustable swaybar it should be fine as the 24mm bit fits in with plenty of room but because mine are adjustable the end was really wide and flat.

Found some 86 arms just waiting for postage now hope I get them for the weekend so I can get this front end done. I hate when one little thing holds you up. All in all though it is so good to see it coming together I just keep waiting for each weekend to get more done. Missus is getting angry though. Some of her quotes "Always spending time on your bloody cars!" "Car's are more important than me!" "Aww, Shutup I don't wanna know all you talk about is cars!" I see her everyday and spend about 10 hrs tops on the car per week and about 40-50hrs with her so don't see how I spend too much time on the car. Might start on some body work tonight just remove the old pinstriping down the side, double sided tape and the chrome rail above the doors. That will take a good hour or two I know it took about half hour to remove the pinstripes on the rear 1/4.

I measured it roughly with a steel rule and it is damn close so that's probably true. Really really annoying as I wanted to get the front end finished. I'll have to dummy fit the 4AGE so I can bolt up the swaybar and tighten the LCA's. I really didn't like hacking up the caster rod mounts as I hate doing dodgy stuff but there was no way the swaybar's would ever fit. Are the holes on an AE86 bigger where the swaybar goes through? I might look at grabbing 86 mounts if they are. Also used all new high tensile bolts in the mounts instead of the rusty old bolts with spring washers that have become flat washers.

Got the steering rack and crossmember back in. I got the swaybar in but had to cut the mounts a little for the swaybar ends to go through as they were way too big. Then as I was mounting the sway bar on of the bolts snapped off which took ages to get out. Got the guards and arches sprayed with body deadener. Got as far as mounting the struts but can't get the locating pins to go into the strut bottoms. Being AE86 Struts do I need to use 86 steering arms? I measured the hole centres roughly with a ruler and they look right but I tried for an hour and couldn't get the bastard on.

Got the steering rack done last night. All painted with new Tie rods and ends, rack boots, LCA Super pro Bushes and ball joints. Today putting it all back in the car.

Man this thing is awesome and that colour on the lexus looks tops. Do you really think you'll get it ready for January though? Are you doing most of the work yourself? I work really slow and so it makes it look like everyone else works quick lol.

Got a bit more work done tonight. After stuffing around with the LCA's trying to remove the ball joints I worked out that the ball joints had a circlip. So I took that off and they came straight out. Used the porta power to push the bushes out then painted them up and my steering arms and repainted the castor rod mounting brackets. Just gotta change over the tie rods, tie rod ends, rubber boots and then paint the rack and then start throwing everything back in. Friday will get the steering rack done and all the bushes and ball joints fitted up and on Saturday the whole front end will be back in.

No worries man. I just used a 400 grit sandpaper Definitely use an etch primer as it will make the paint hold much better and will make it much more resistant to rust and corrosion.

Yeah just painting all the suspension bits as they have to come out to change over the bushes anyways. Also painting all the wheel arches in body deadener and maybe even the under carriage if I can be bothered. Prep wise I was going to sandblast them but I just want the thing on the road so to get it done quickly I just cleaned them down with a heavy duty degreaser, Then a rub down with sandpaper, wipe over with just some gun wash thinners then wipe down with Prepsol. After that I undercoat it with grey etch primer then I paint them with VHT high temp engine enamel in gloss black. I'd use 2 pac but I'm saving the black I have left for the spoiler and the underside of my new bonnet.