caibs

that thing was dope, makes me want a rotang in mine even more. howd you go with your 5kz btw ? havent read your thread in a bit

update time; finally got around to lowering it. had the leafs reset 3" with an extra leaf added. didnt drop it nearly as much as i'd hoped so i threw some 2" blocks in it and now not only does it sit nicely, but i think the blocks give the shocks slightly more travel so its a smoother ride too. stoked. chopped the fronts and it doesnt bottom out whatsoever, pretty happy actually. rolled the guards a little and so far everything is gravy. some cheeky bastard broke into it the other night, pinched my emergency vb & ashtray full of coins. so if anyone has an ashtray lying around hit me up. picture time! excuse the crap phone pictures too

anyone got pics? was a cool show some really nice rides there.

the aleica's look better in photos than in real life i reckon. infact, i reckon you'd be better off getting new alloy outers spun for your current rims if you want them wider. look heaps better than rota's. there's a guy over east that does it. pm *E7* on ae86dc for details if you're keen

definately a wise choice to keep it mate, its such a sweet car. what size & offset rims are you running on the front btw?

supposedly the stock manifolds fit no worries in a ke3x, as written by rodi/curly himself.

bit of a speculative question but i was wondering what rough power people start snapping centres/axles? In imaginary world, it would be behind a stock as 3rz/w58.

still a bit of info on toymods re; 3rz intoi ke3x. flip and rebaffle sump is the hardest bit. one end mount fits straight in, the other needs 40mm cut down. Std manifolds fit under the bonnet. Mx5 mounts for the box. Cut hole further back for shifter. Then its a matter of converting fuel lines and pump to efi, pedal box converted to hydraulic system, tailshaft mod to fit whatever diff you want to use, wiring, etc. Havent don't it myself btw, just quoting from memmory.

both bushes in the photo are what was in the spring when i pulled them out of both of the cars. and yes, the i.d is way too big, what i've been trying to say from the start. anywho, its all good i'm just gonna go the blocks route now, i've had enough of messing with the springs. plus the blocks are easily removable.

the ke36 ones didnt actually fit, the bushes were too wide and the centre hole was far too big for the ke38 locating bolt unfortunately, i think it would've worked if i could have gotten my hands on the propper front locating bolt. i sat down and thought about it, ended up taking apart both sets of springs and swapping the top spring over. everything bolts up fine now. its not nearly low enough though, i asked for a 3" drop, with the extra spring added. came down maybe 1.5 - 2". it is a fair bit stiffer though, so i think i'll grab some 2" blocks.

so, i've just had a set of ke36 springs reset, only to find out that the eyelets are a different size. pic here; it would also appear that the ke36 springs are physically longer by about 2 inches, but i'm not sure if thats because they've been flattened in the resetting process. anyone got ideas on how i can install them? can i just use the locating bolts from a ke30 with the bigger diameter? i threw away the bolt from the ke36, assuming it would be the same. the only other thing i can think of, is swapping the top spring with the correct eyelet size from the ke38 onto the reset pack? help appreciated!!

why was this deleted man?

new updates! - wired up some spotties and hid them behind the grill - installed a ke30 centre console without drilling any new holes so my stereo doesnt look so out of place - i also wired up a piezo buzzer, which goes off when i forget to turn off my headlights so i don't get a flat battery. reallly easy to do and only costs like $4 if anyone wants to know how to do their own just ask! and finally, the widened steelies idea got scrapped when i got offered these rims for a good price. so off they went to get new tyres this morning. 14x7jj volk meshies, close to 0 offset, with a new set of 175/65's on them. and yes, i do realise that it looks like a 4x4. i still need to get off my ass and lower it. might go for a raked look and just drop the front. not sure yet. pretty stoked with it in general though, just went on a 700km trip this weekend and it didnt miss a beat.

i'd really like to 13bt my ke38. when i don't need it for a daily that is.

no skids, but pretty cool car http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJ_7xZfFU80&feature=related

also theres a ke10 on gumtree with a 3t and 5 speed for 700 bucks!

nice silver flat front ke70 today. i forget where though. pretty slammed tho

yeh thats killer mate, you have nice taste when modifying cars.

dude i sent you a message asking how much you wanted for the chrome ones for the wagon and you never replied!

little update; installed a cool little stereo so i can play some tunes - but left the original am radio in place and fully working. getting some steel wheel trims sent over from a member on here, really need to drop the stockies off to get widened & lower it in the mean time. the k50 was leaking from a few places and with a bit of research i found out that you need to dissasemble the box and pull the gearset to change the front seal. found a place in belmont to do it cheaper than the rest, at $220 i thought it was a good price. got it back last night and put a new clutch in it as the oil ruined the other one. fingers crossed it has no more leaks. i don't wanna fork out for any more clutches!

should weld flat sheetmetal in for a delivery style wagon, would be easier i think?

got a day off work today so pulled it off this morning. my new clutch is most definately rooted. the rear main looks to be leaking, which is no real drama however i'm not sure if its leaking from the sump & input shaft seal as well. bit of a dilemma i guess.

ahaha it certainly does.

car looked good man, was a good event. think i saw you but i wasnt sure if it was you or not

this is my 'good' car. its been a bit neglected since i got my corolla to fix up. infact, i should be pulling my gearbox out right now, but i got called in for work tomorrow so its a no go. 88 vl calais, rb25 conversion. i bought it with the motor already installed, unfortunately the wiring was rooted and a relay was hooked to constant 12v. luckily it was winter and we found it before it burnt to the floor. fixed a few vacuum leaks, the gearbox was f@$ked & it had an open wheeler that i blew shortly after and replaced with a 3.9 lsd. had a few snapped exhaust manifold studs so i pulled replaced them, faced the manifold and put new nissan gaskets in. put on a hiflow but wasnt very happy with it. so on went a hks 2835 (same as a gt3071) now it makes 315rwhp @ 18psi. best 1/4 is a 13.1 @ 110mph on very 205 average chinese tyres. 60' was a 2.2 so that, with the mph, indicates its a mid 12 second car with a good driver. i daily drove this for a good year and a half. it ran 18psi all day every day for about 7 months and is still going strong. i've started an apprenticeship now hence the need for a new daily (my ke38). recently did a comp test and all cylinders came up excellent. stoked. pretty simple mod list; rb25 s1 ems stinger xtreme motorsport clutch hybrid cooler nismo 740cc's walbrahhhh 3.9 lsd the beauty of this turbo, is that it has near factory response so you have such a huge power band. its a bit of a pig to drive, the tune is fairly average but its a menace at roll-ons, i love it. i think it still has another ~35rwhp in it with coil packs, revised intake & a retune. unfortunately, the diff in it is out of a vn (wider) so i can only roll on chasers. i have some gto's for it, just need to get a new diff built. time and money i guess. anywho enough talk here's some pics; and, what showcase of a bogan chariot would be complete without a picture of a skid.