caibs

why?

I can do some more accurate measurements for you when I get the car back if you want. Try using www.willtheyfit.com for rim/tyre/offset comparisons its quite useful.

well its definitely more than 10mm. i got the verniers on it last night and it appears like theres about 26mm clearance now at the narrowest point which is the lower spring locking rings to the tyre. the tyres are a 195/55/15. I dropped it at the shop this morning. i had issues with one side of the ajps caliper brackets sitting too close to the base height adjustable locking ring. it required either a smaller bolt head (18mm bolt heads were supplied) or no washer. strangely enough the passenger side is fine, with about 1-2mm clearance, just the drivers side is out.

Quite a bit now, it was around a +12 before and the tyre just touched. Now it's +0 so I'm guessing around 10mm clearance I'll grab a photo for you tomorrow when I put the wheels back on it. The nuggets who swapped the tyres over dropped a valve in one of the tyres so you can hear it bouncing around, will grab it back off them sans extra valve tomorrow.

Had to get some new wheels made for the new coilovers, went with a 15x6 +0. Had a few setbacks, hoping to get it into the suspension shop this week or Saturday at the latest. Drove it down the street, suspension feels much, much more suited to the car. I look forward to having it all dialled in. The rims will be going silver soon.

Matt, could you tell us about your bearings failing and whatnot ? How often, how many etc ? I don't care about the right/wrong argument I'd just like to hear about issues you've experienced ? Chestikoph, can you update your build thread its been ages ! You ever decide on a tubular front end ?

I was thinking about possibly ditching the fc setup and splitting shipping but seeing as we're on the opposite sides of the country its probably still cost prohibitive. 1800 landed is a bit much for me right now I think. I'd be pretty keen to see how bolt in it is on a KE though, along with wheel selection possibilities and your review

taz have you already ordered the wilwood kit?

Yeah they have the kits made in Korea so they don't sell front / rear separately unfortunately. Bit of a gamble but from the reviews I read they really are that much better. We will see I suppose. When I had my steel wheels made I had them with quite a high offset so they could stay in the guards, I thought the ae86 struts' would increase track alot more than they did. I had 15x7 +10 mesh rims that fouled on the calipers and hung out the guard ever so slightly but I couldn't get a proper measurement on how it would sit. I think I went with something silly like 15x6 +37 to be safe. Was way too safe. The tyre was very close to the old coilovers. They now touch on the lock ring of the new struts. So I'm yet to drive on them (away for work as well) So when I get home I'll have new rims made, I think 15x7 +19 will keep it in the guards and away from the strut. As far as the fc kit, the calipers were the cheapest part at like 80 bucks and 30ish for a rebuild kit. Everything else from ajps was overpriced and took months to arrive. I do not rate his customer service either.

You are indeed right. I did not look closely enough at that. Delete please !

Found this whole browsing the net. Looks pretty good for those people who persist with the k series ! http://www.pro-jay.com/K-series-Rear-Wheel-Drive-Intake-Manifold-PJ-KS-X8-RWD-INT.htm

I've just bought a set of shockworks ae86 gear. I had a mystery set of 10kg heavy ass coilovers which were not base adjustable. The base adjustable thing is really convenient, change the height really really easily. Just jack it up, loosen the lock ring and turn the shock body essentially. The damper adjusters are at the base but there's a notch behind the stub axle so you can adjust it in car still, just slightly inconvenient. Brett has been very very good with customer service. I just researched what the general consensus was for the best setup for an 86. Cost a bit more but hopefully worth it. I like that it's an Australian company as well. side by side theres no comparison. Even the shockworks ae86 cambertops are much higher quality than the Cusco ones I have to use (te37). It was expensive but hopefully I can sell the cambertops and rear shocks/springs to recoup some money. As far as brakes go I have the ajps rx7 upgrade. It was quite expensive in the end and I'm not sure I'm super happy with it. I will fit a bigger pulsar booster to attempt to get the correct pedal feel. I think rx7s had a 9 1/2 inch booster so its way bigger than ke. Theres also the issue of wheel fitment, many rims don't fit due to the calipers protrusion. This is well documented. I would definitely go the wilwood setup but the grass is always greener I suppose. Hope that helps.

Haha thanks man. Yeah I've always been a bit like that.

Had dramas putting in a couple sets of cams so stuck with the stock ones. Exhaust manifold was replaced with a factory cast unit and a gt2860rs was put on. 3" exhaust as well with a single muffler. Quieter than before! Boost up to 18psi and it happily makes 270rwhp and feels stronger throughout the rpm range. Looking forward to the track opening again in September.

Stoked you're happy with it & planning on keeping it original. Would be gutted if it got chopped up. Gonna keep an eye on its progress for sure.

You should be proud dude, its a pearler! I wonder if I would fit in a ke10 better than the 17. I honestly prefer the shape in the 10/11s. Anywho enjoy the day tomorrow, I look forward to seeing pictures

Awesome rig man. Great attention to detail. My friend will be taking my ke17 tomorrow as I'm away with work. Wish it was as tidy as yours haha.

well she's for sale. the money is needed elsewhere unfortunately. I'm sure ill regret it later but thats life. anyone interested can pm me or check the gumtree ad.

Shit yeah. This is cool. The Buicks respond so well to boost as well, it'll be a weapon.

It's hard to say if its blue or clear, its got these terrible strips of tint over everything. Unfortunately that guy sold all the blue glass, but he has clear which will do for the time being. Perhaps ill have the whole thing tinted. Thanks though, it looks better in the pics than real life. The paint job is pretty terrible, its presentable but there's alot of runs. And the interior is a bit cactus from the heat. But most importantly it is all there and complete aside from the passenger glass. Just needs a whole lot of time and loving.

Yeah I did mate, I forgot to thank you again! I need to call him again and get it shipped, i wanted to wait till i got the car and have a good look through it to see if theres any other bits i need. The window in there is perspex and native kids have scratched tags into it. They're pretty ruthless. While it is in good nick, there is still a lot of work to clean it up, but I really like it. Gives me a corolla to drive while my ke38 is off the road haha

Hey guys. Found this one owner ke17 SL in Carnarvon, far north w.a and met the little old lady who owns it. Negotiated a price and its now mine. Original 3kb twincarb motor, 58xxx miles. Good nick, has been painted at some stage and interior reupholstered. I assume because the heat up here ʞ©$ɟs everything. But its solid, and will come up a treat with some love. I'm up here at the moment, will ship it back to Perth very shortly. Quite happy, though at 6'3" I don't fit in it very well.

i bought a chinese kit off ebay i wouldnt recommend it. all the instructions were in chinese so i kinda forget what i did. i distinctly remember it being neutrally switched though. anyway so maybe don't buy the cheapest kit you can find and the instructions will be in english. but basically, you'll need a keyless entry kit which will give you 4 solenoids (only need 3 if its a pano or coupe) basically they come with little mounting rails and the ke30 doors are practically made for them. you attach the solenoid to the locking rod in the door skin. the tailgate pop is a little trickier, theres a vertical locking rod so i had to trim a bit of metal to get the solenoid to fit. but still pretty easy. i think i had to fit a $2 return spring for some reason. this is all a few years ago so my memmory is a bit hazy. but its pretty wicked when it works cos you can leave your tailgate locked and still pop it with the remote. then when you close it, it stays locked. but yeh, just follow the instructions, its pretty simple, theres a master solenoid thats on the drivers door, all the slave solenoids are just a 2 wire (active which goes to the central control box that you wire in to the car and a neutral which you just ground) i just installed gas struts last weekend cos the tailgate linkages ʞ©$ɟed out for the second time. the only crappy thing is the struts place a bit of force on the tailgate lock so the 'pop' doesnt work as well as it used to. anyway, a minor problem, still well worth the trouble.

duuuuuude i used to hate wagons ey. i got a ke38 pano and its the tits! useable space for sure. the back is 1.3 long so its not massive, but i can fit 2 full sized pushies in if I'm careful, 1 is a breeze. i use mine as a work car, have a gorilla extendable ladder that fits in the back and its super easy to rig up central locking with a little solenoid that pops the rear hatch with a remote. as for being underpowered all k motors are underpowered they're no different to sedans or coupes at all. they can keep up with traffic and a 5 speed makes life easier. as cool as the coupes are i think i genuinely prefer the wagons. and they look killer when slammed! heres some inspiration: