springersrolla

5500!!! tell him hes dreaming!! i have owned a few 35's, they come up occasionally, and usually good examples for resonable prices, if its not complete, and had rust and your unsure whats under the paint, theres no way id pay 5.5 i sold an absolute mickey mouse 35 about 4 yrs ago for 3g, months later i saw it in justcars and ebay for 8grand. it never sold. luckly they don't have the big price tag that some datsuns/mazdas are fetching. id keep looking around but make him a offer and let him know where you stand and why. he may find hes being unrealistic. remember for a price that high id be wanting a rebuilt car. not needing to put any money into it and everything fresh. each to there own but yeh incomplete, bit rough round the edges, rego $1000-2000 good luck there cool cars

http://www.atscables.com.au/ there at coopers plains. made my mates 60 series landcruiser cable to suit turbo engine in a day, under $100, i now have it and will use it for my twin carbs, if i didnt need it i would give it to you, its absolutely perfect. identical and works great. the old dude there was really helpful, see how cheap he'l do it for. couldnt recommend higher

hey mate ill have to have a look when i get home but i run xt130 with ford capri springs????? and gh sigma lcas. that and castor rods. handles awesome

well motor is 11.6:1 and big cam lightened and balanced hoping for 100+hp. just throwing ideas around. i have read it doesnt like alloys but yeah might talk to carb builder what he reckons

I'm pretty sure the ke70 strut top bolts are wider spaced then the 30/55 so no wont fit. id need to measure. put sigma arms in its like -2 camber, nothing severe, tyres last don't worry about that shit. get a die nut and wind more thread onto the castor arms and bring the front tyres forward more. http://www.reocities.com/Colosseum/4883/e3-sus.html

yo doods, getting my twin 40mm dcoe rebuilt and walked out the door before i could ask the carb guy about rebuilding to suit e85. ihave read positive things in regards to power but uses more fuel, its a stinkin weekender with no consideration for the environment, is it worth setting the car up for e85 as the servo all of 200m from my house has just started selling it?? interested to see if anyone else out there is running a k series or old carb motor for that matter with...., stock/warm/hot engine and how they have found how well it runs, power and efficency. cheers

i did a 35 with a 3tc. it had extractors and a 32/36 weber. it hauled ass and shit all over the 5k i had, it was a solid bit of gear, i still got the crossmember somewhere and the tail shaft bolted up with t50 behind it. 2t's are still good motors,i had a mate who bombed out his 2t, then put in the ducksnuts 2tg with solex's standard, i still reckon the 2t went better. go youtube and check out the dudes in puerto rico pulling 7's with the 3t, also Nme_308 has a good thread on toymods of a 3t hes redoing. there a good motor, just don't seem to have a cult following like the k motors. i never modplated mine just did the conversion and drove it. probably a different story if i had an accident but. it shouldnt be much drama to certify, i have no idea on sa requirements but maybe just brake upgrade?

seriously ive been lookin for another sad sole who rides xvs to hit the qld virago club. ill do some investigating to the next one and meet u half way or so and head in for a few rides. mate honestly they reckon round aust and back on the motor no worries,. i love mine, it will take everything i give it and ask for more, we should meet up for a ride, i love the power of the 1100 and i bet u will. heres some sweet photos to work towards

nice rides bro! i picked up a xv1100 for 2000 last year, wicked bike with heaps of go,. just feel i wish it had a 6th gear. they love it, ride well, go hard and look nice. bit more practical anyways than the monkey bike! ride safe!

love this, nice build, i had a mate with a b230 in a volvo wagon, it was nuts!! love seeing one in a 70

the cam bearings need to be pressed out, not sure if u need a drift or what, i can't comment on the scratch, you know its always there if u leave it but, i had my camshaft reground and it was originally a 5k hydraulic, its been ground for solid, no idea what was done

I'm at this stage in my build also. i have sourced 3f lifters, and have the twin squish 5k head/bottom end, the pushrods you need are 179-180mm long. 4k rocker gear will work, pushrod needs ball end for lifter cup end for rocker. good luck with it all, i don't think toyota make 4ke/u rods anymore so probably custom. check out toyodiy.com to wig out a part number, just make sure u cross reference them as theres 3-4 diferent rods available

Breaker bar and rubber mallet give it some good solid strikes. Let it sit at your 9oclock when facing the balancer and strike down. Should only need 2-3 good blows. don't use your palm unless you want to end up crippled. Its just habit for me thats been hard to stop

After doing a bit of searching i came across recarbs setup to suit 3-4-5k. Settings look a bit different and pretty broad. Surely theres some theory behind choosing correct jets?? Carburettor jetting: * chokes 32 * Main jet 138 * Air jet 190 * emulsion F64 - F47 * Idle jet 59F21 * pump jet 35

Hey thanks for the response Rob. Ive checked over the idle jets and they are the performance style like you have explained. Ill try and chase up some larger mains and different e tubes. Keen on hearing what else anyone out there is running in theirs. Cheers

Hey lads, been a while since ive posted on here, been buying motorbikes and riding them instead of playing with the poor old corolla in the corner. Anyways wanna beat the rego running out on july and have the car back up and running and on the road all sweet. at the present the bottom end is sitting on a stand wrapped in glad wrap waiting for me to install the pistons, rings, and rods then slap on the head, all balanced, blueprinted and ready to go, was just waiting for my cam. Engine is setup with 40thou over 5k. 11.6:1 CR, 5k worked head 1mm Oversized Intake/Exhaust Valves, Port work, Approx 6kg flywheel, 284 Duration 495 lift cam. Twin 40mm DCOE webers, i have just obtained 32mm chokes but also have 27mm that came with the carbs. The webers specs i have are - 40 DCOE32 no. 109114 & no.107111. 27mm chokes, 4.5 F9 45 idle jets f9 air drill 170 air corrector f9 emulsion tubes and 112 main jets IS there any one out there that can help drop some suggestions into a setup that will suit the run-in of the motor - not wanting to be too lean, and not wanting to tow it to a tuner when it needs to be run in to start with. I know that i could slap on the carbs as they are, but i bet i can get closer to start with. Ive found some info online and some lost programs that suggested what jets but I'm at a dead end. As for the assembly of the engine, I'm hoping to assemble bar genuine toyota head gasket, 1 piece manifold gasket, and the correct length pushrods this weekend. As for tuning this will be once my engine bay is painted and i finally pull my finger out to drop her back in, All achieveable in a short timeframe,. Any info into my final stages would be good,. I'm all ears and keen on finishing this old girl off and spending some time on the road with it Cheers

get your leafs reset. i asked carrolls (QLD) to reset my 35 leafs 2 inches and add stiffer spring but didnt want it to tramp. Unsure what spring was added or what stiffness but it sits nice, not too low, handles really well and its takes a heap to get it to tramp. as for front, I'm sure king spring would do a spring to suit your strut, the come in a range lowered springs. can i ask why 1in? i reckon they look good with 2, still legal, no unwanted attention handles well.

xmember . gearbox crossmember modified. t18 or similar radiator, i used longer throttle cable to fit on weber.ke30 tail shaft bolted up to t50 with my xmember mounting. pretty easy really. i still have my xmember where u live?

what lifters what head whats pushrod length in mm???

diesel alternator and mod up bracket to suit

mazda steelies are usually the go, don't know bout fitting your hubcaps but

its a bit messy but you could probably get away with it. i take no responsibility telling you to but. i would clean it up with a tap, make sure everythings clean loctite 243 and correct torque. it might never have a problem. then again it might

its a tough one depending on how damaged the thread is. i think by memory there m10x1.25, if you buy a tap set it will with come with a starter intermediate and plug. it will get your thread started and then finish on the plug tap. i can't comment on using the crank because i can't see it but if you found you had any slop with the bolt or loss of thread id scrap the crank. i wouldnt recomend helicoiling the crank either. the fact your going from auto to manual means your going to rev it more and that could mean a flywheel cutting off your ankles. put some pictures up to show how bad it is

updates???? been too long!!

go to wreckers, steal big jets, put big jets in. profit