springersrolla

i have a little cam and extractors, ive used a timing light when warm and the car sits happily at 10-12degrees on PULP with a good idle, but when suddenly braking the car will choke and then stall, hot or cold it seems to idle weirdo, i got a nikki in the shed should i try it on i guess no harm can happn

isnt a 89 626 front wheel drive?

i have got the shits with my standard carby, not so much me driving it but I'm sick of my misses up me for it not holding idle. the carb is a piece of shit, so should i a) buy another stock carb from the wreckers. b) put another kit thru the standard carb that was done about 6months ago or c) f@$king chuck that thing as far as i can or tow it behind me on a trip down the coast and find an alternative? I'm thinking about su's, downdraft weber, solex, dellorto, anything, even injection, i want the car to run well and hold idle, the timing is good, the carby is good just not around idle, ive changed the fuel solenoid twice, but i think the throttle shaft is cactus and its leaking air. what is a solution to my problem??? rollaclub help me

hey there quick question, read the faq,s and ta22 struts fit into the ke35s but wondering if there is any benefit with rotor size, thickness, or interchangeablity?, i wanna know if I'm better off swapping out the ke35 ones for the ta22 or go down the xt130 route? any help would be good thanks

f@$king magnificant car, went for a ride yesterday in it, blew me away, then i drove outta curlys place and couldnt wipe the smile off my face seeing the rubber run for about 300m up the hill from the corner, it just makes awesome power, very solid and driveable. well done mate its a great car, and I'm sure it would ruin some blokes nights racing against an old sleeper wagon that explodes with grunt.

thanks mate, yep I'm on that first one reading like a bible, ill just poke along with it, ill have to find some bits and pieces

yeah cheers mate ill keep hunting round, waitin to hear back from toymods moderator, ive been lookin a fairbit on there, ill grab those xt130 struts and size some shit up thanks mate.

so ive gone to the wreckers today and found some xt130 struts that need lcas, I'm assuming corolla ones work fine, who has cut there spring perch off ke35 and welded it to the xt130?? I'm just concerned about strentgh and structural integrity, by cutting and welding something getting hot spots, warping the steel etc.. ive been reading the toymods post and found silverra23s post on nostalgic japanese club forum, and pictures are helping, then i came across a bloke who just used the xt 130s with there original discs and calipers, is there a huge advantage over using the 10mm larger ra60 discs and making spacers for the mx62 calipers, or should i justr bung in the xt130 struts with lowered inserts, welded ke35 spring perches and lowered springs? any helps much appreciated cause i wanna get this off and running, ill grab the struts tomorrow and gives me incentive to pull my finger out, ive signed up to toymods for some help but still waiting for confirmation, thanks lads, cheers

thanks for the responses guys I'm looking at around $1g for the suspension, i got quoted round 180-200 for reset leaves so hopefully can pick up some sierra shocks, what year model are u looking for and how noticeable was the shorter stroke? was it really stiff or just felt nice and tight??, I'm thinknig of going down the xt130 road but if i can find a t18 ill go that way, I'm not too overly keen on cutting a spring seat and welding it on to another strut, i can weld well but i don't wanna f@$k with something like that, its got me thinknig anyway if the struts inserts are removeable ill look around and see what i can find. howd anyone go if the've fitted a rear swaybar to a ke35, or should i up the standard size at the front?? ill start hunting wreckers this week cheers lads

hey guys i need help here, I'm redoing my ke35 suspension, intentions of doing it all so i need to know what to look for and buy, I'm guessing monroe gt shocks for the rear with reset leafs, nolathane bushes, for the front ive been looking and sifting through forums on toymods, rollaclub, clubk etc.. found differnet combos but no real advice as to what works well, I'm gonna do street driving so i don't need a stiff ride, I'm looking at a write up of using xt130 struts, I'm assuming u cut the spring holder on the strut off the ke and weld it to the xt strut?? do u use lowered ke springs with this? can the struts be rebuilt, or should i just buy ne ke35 struts and lowered springs?? or use the xt130 so i can run the bigger brakes, sorta wanna get it done really soon, got the money and time, just not the right advice on what to use, any help would be f@$kin awesome cheers

hey hey, whats the go??? meeting at the servo at 7??? whats she looking like for numbers?

I'm in for this show lads, should be good, whats the go with it, are we just rocking up there or what?

you f@$kers need to chill out and relax, i don't need life storys i just asked how to lower the car cheaply not witty self opinions , thanks but calm the f@$k down. SLO-030 cheers for the tip mate

hey man yeah i know what your saying, one of my mates took 5" out of his falcon springs and it was on the bumpstops. looked really fukin awesome, drove like shit, scraped everywhere, couldnt take gutters or speedbumps, totally impractical, i just want a quick fix so the car looks alright, I'm happy to take 1.5 coils out

good stuff thaks champ ill see how i go, when u say flip the second leaf are we talking from the top or bottom??

hey lads, putting some hotwires and new tyres on my misses car tomorrow and I'm gonna have the shits and cain it with the grinder to lower it, I'm thinking bout chopping front coils, How much should i go along the coil, before i can afford new king springs, and how should i go about lowering the rear??? my mate has drop blocks for a hilux with the borg warner rear that hasnt been fitted so i can dummy some blocks of my own off his, or should i flip the leaves, is there a way of lowering the car for cheap until i can afford lowered springs, struts, shocks and reset leaves after i come back from my o/s holiday in a month??? the car gets driven bout 5k to and from work a day so I'm not overly concerned about dodgyness cause the new shit will be getting done asap cheers

hey lads, car almost got stolen last night , they f@$ked the barrel so I'm sitting here with it in my hand and i have the loom it says, : AM,ST1, ACC, 16,ST2 on the back of the barrel, question is how should i wire the ignition so i can control it by a switch, should i use the coil wire, or split a wire from the ignition to the switch?? whos had luck with what I'm pretty determined to prevent the car getting taken, or the switch being found, a mate used to run a pressure switch in the floor pan near the foot rest, hold it in when u turn to start to open the circuit, shit like that, any one who can decipher the 5 wires on the back would be a big help cheers,

hey lads over at a mates place, went to leave and walked outside, no little corolla in the driveway, they'd pushed it down the street tried to start it, bunnyhopped a few times, broke a key or something in the ignition, absolutey yanked the head unit out and piss bolted, now I'm left with a broken barrel, might have a broken steering lock, and an unusable car till i get the ignition sorted again, lucky that I'm only missin cd player and a broken barrel and not the whole car, what do u guys do to prevent this shit, steering wheel braces are shit cause there easy to break, i will put a kill switch in it tomorrow but anything u can think of? whos had luck with solex locks, ive been told u just pop them out with a screwdriver if u try. i hope these pin dick f@$kwits who tried to flog it get some proper karma, like STDs and such.

hey dudes i have found a potential motor, and after reading old mates post with the aqua ke35 with the turbo ca18 it sounds pretty good. what i wanna know is what is required in qld about fitting a fuel injected turbo or non turbo 1800cc in to an original 1200cc engine bay for registering? has anyone had a go or chased it up to find out if brakes, suspension, shit like that is needed, or is it adequate mountings for motor and box, custom tailshaft and then the mod plate? cheers

hey quick question while on brakes my pedal is super stiff in the mornings and takes a while then comes good, seems to be after lots of revs rather than hotter brakes, anyways is it worth adjusting the rear shoes or is it likely to be a master or booster problem, any way i could or should diagnose the problem in the morning

good to hear are u aware of the appropriate sizing of chokes, idle jets, fuel jets etc... I'm looking at a set of DHLA 40's of a 2000cc alfa giuletta and i was reading in the How to build a tuff k motor saying to run 28mm chokes?? is anyone running a 3/4/5k with twin dellortos or can recomend a good tuning book or site?

gday just another little problem to keep me on my toes, when the car is cold in the morning the brakes have a f@$kin solid resistance against them when braking, they seem to take longer to pull up because it feels like the pedal is pushing back at me. I bled the system on sunday and the fluid is clean and no bubbles, so I'm leaning towards a booster or master problem, a few weeks ago the main resevoir rose above its level, so i took some out but i thought it was very strange, ive been keeping an eye on it, the thing is, it only seems problematic in the morning when u just start to drive it, no dramas in the arvo... the booster was reco'ed in 07 but whos to say its not playing up now. Any one had similar problems or troubleshooting methods??? thanks

Felix, cool man cheers for the info and the tip on that sale, I'm actually looking at picking up a set of twin 40mm dellortos for super cheap so how do u think they would perform on a 3k or is it not worth it?? i also have a set of twin hitachi SUs 1.5" but got told there not that flash, i did unhook the fuel cut solenoid and nothing at all happened so i guess its off to a tuning shop, and i'll get an 02 sensor along the way thanks heaps for your info and responses guys

i never changed power valve or idle jet, just primary and secondary jets so its not an idle jet problem, plus 5k idle jet is about twice the length of the 3k one, the car runs fine with those jets, the cam I'm puzzled about, the bloke i bought it off had no idea, i got the reciepts and it says cam regrind, and he said it's a little cam, hard to tell if it was a 20-60 just by idle note just cause of idle, especially when its high, so i have no idea. i'd say coln72 that u might be right just with a higher idle, i had the intentions of getting the exhaust shop to put an o2 sensor but they had no threadolets so when there in ill get one and run a stoich mixture gauge to make sure the motors running well through the range, but for now ill take it to a shop with a gas analysier and find out whats goin on, thanks for your input guys

ok so thanks for the response jimpoole but the jets are fine in the car it does NOT ping at all through the rev range, and yes it does still idle, just high, theres no point in me trying to even retard the timing to 8 because it'll just die,or run at like 2000rpm to hold 8degrees , the revs in turn would end up being higher than what they were at the moment, as for me putting 5k jets in ive only gone from 100 to 108 on primary and 147 to 153 secondarys and the motor runs shit hot, its a big improvenment, i might just be enjoying a new motor, but i reco'ed the carb and put the bigger jets in after i had the car running and driving and noticed a drastic improvement. if your a bit undecieded you should definately try the 5k jets and tell me differently, as raven said, the cam was bigger and i noticed it with cam ad jet changed. I havent tried to ditch the fuel cut-off solenoid like felix has told me but i'll do that now, could be an issue as it seems to hunt or surge for idle, and revs fine, dies, then picks revs up again to where it was before, ive dropped idle now but my missues wont be able to drive it so i'll up it but just looking for answers or tell tale signs