springersrolla

i measured the sizes and got 32mm from the inlet port, 33mm inlet valve, standard looking exhaust port, exhaust valve 25.5mm this is what he told me. The inlet ports were opened up to the proper ratio for the larger inlet valves, the combustion chamber was reshaped for a quick burn, new guides and seats were fitted and it was shaved 30 thou. The standard k motor distibrutor needs stronger springs to slow the spark advance 'cause of the higher compression and quicker burn.. I did some research, picked the sizes for the inlet valves and ports and it turned out pretty good. head flows 139hp and should have 11.5:1 CR stock pistons.

hey guys hows it goin, ive just picked up a 5k head thats been worked, i was told it was running all standard apart from aftermarket pistons. the motor apparently was running 11.5:1 :blinks: the head has the 2 tabs under the 1 and 4 spark plug tube so I'm sure its 5k head, its running standard 5k rocker gear, head was skimmed apparently 50thou, but comparing my 4k head to the 5k, it looks like about 5mm has been taken off it. inlet ports have been opened and larger valves, ill have to check size, exhaust cleaned up, retaining original valves. the bloke it bought it off reckons it went like a shower of shit, and said he had to retard the advance massively to compensate the compression ratio, so now my question is.. if i run my 5k i just bought, lucky its had a fresh rebuild when i had bought it, if i cc the head, can someone tell me what the standard cc of the 5k head is?, i'll have to get the head off soon to work out the pistons in the 5k, see what size dish they are, and figure out a cam and intake setup to suit. anyone with a bit of help would be good cheers

hey lads does it fit?, I'm gonna have to scoot to the wreckers in the morning if not, i have a 5k in ke70 and dropping the motor into ke35. i think i have an old set sitting round, but before i try it would be good to know

sweet no worrys, ive just got a light rattle on start up hence the need to find a chain, but if you've run stock for years, don't fix whats not broke, ill chase a single row chain with slight grind and go from there cheers

f@$k yeah, well its gonna be cam out, head out, butvery nervous about standard carb for roadworthy, dunno if i should bolt my twin su's on or not, should be a bit of fun. all f@$kin out or nothing right, did the 5k ever come out double row, and can anyone confirm the distance between cam and crank sprokets are the same??, whats a good hydraulic g4rind, ill talk to tighe on monday when i drop it off

shes a bit noisy on start up, I'm changing the cam to a new grind next week, do i chase a single or double row from a 3k and was a double row standard in 5k?, if not theres no chance of buying new gears just find a motor with the doubles and the 5k chain will fit to the hydraulic cam with no modification?, looking forward to gettnig everything going sweet, please pm me if you have a half decent 5k and let me know what u've done and how it goes, I'm sitting back a few days away from swapping engines, and while shes out i know i should change the cam, quick head reco and go from there no 1. piston 185psi, no.2/3/4 piston 180psi compression ratio, bottom end good. whats the 5k gurus think?

hey guys, i know this is a common question but can't seem to find much info, it just seems to be "hey I'm looking at modding my 3/4k, everyone says go 5k" and thats it, so i just got this 5k, good compression, no idea whether is the shallow or deep dished pistons and will check tomorrow, so.....I'm chasing up a 32/36, i can get a set of twin 1 3/4british su's and chasing extractors, and I'm going to the flywheel lightened. what weight has been tried and true? ive read 7kilos.. is this acceptable for the 5k? I'm also thinking of getting a quick cam grind but leads me to.... solid conversion. am i really honestly gonna find a huge improvement and gain in power and rpm, depending to cam of course changing to solids? i have 4k rocker gear sitting here and have read of the 3f lifters. giving me the advantage of the options of solid cams, also do i need a solid cam in replacement of the original hydraulic or can it be ground? is it worth changing heads? shaving the 5k head? info seems to be limited any help would be good, I'm not chasing noise, just a bit of poke for my car that will become my daily bit of street, few hills, few highways so shed some light or please suggest a old topic that i couldnt find cheers

sold

how much have you got to spend?, how much experience do u have working on cars and tools?, how many wreckers are around your area?, 13" wheels will be all to easy to find the stud pattern is 4x114.3 take that figure to the wreckers and ask what rims they have. any old corolla, celica, corona, datsun. lowering could cost you $200- 1500 depending on how good u are with tools and who u know. call up a suspension shop, ask them what u want, get a quote, ring around and see if you can get it done cheaper, or find cheaper parts. its all pretty easy dude good luck

hey dudes ive got a good condition ke35 low kms, dint in the drivers door, stock everything and looks good. problem is i found a 3tgte, t50 and 9" to drop in it. all seems easy enough, ive got a t28bb for it manifold almost complete, got the engine crossmember sorted and gearbox crossmember sorted, diffs complete and shortened to suit corolla, got bigger brakes and shocks in the front already, motor and box sitting in. Now i need to change my brake master to stop fouling on the manifold, got one sitting here, drill holesaw into firewall for hydraulic clutch setup, pedal already modified, wiring complete just pretty much plug in looms and sort out a few loose bits. also need to run efi fuel lines and braze a return line into fuel tank, setup fuel pump My biggest drama now is, once everythings in and completed and the cars running, to get it road registered i'll need to get mod plates, not to include doing everything properly to make sure its all clear. I'm wondering if its gonna exceed the costs and be worth it. It originally ran a 5k and the cars still setup for it I don't know anymore i keep umming and ahhing bout it wether its worth it or not. I sold my old original ke35 for 3500 and saw it in justcars the other week for 6900!!!! this corolla is in the same shape I'm just curious to keep it running original spec or go all out If i do go all out, what is my chances of road legal, what type of fuel lines do i run?, is it worth running soft or solid fuel line whats the legalities, ive heard people have dramas getting brakes mod plated, what about the engine and gearbox, master cylinder for clutch?, diff. and at the end of the day is the motor 100% and not require me to rip it apart and find hard to get parts to keep it goin?, Ive gone and f@$ked myself cause ive bought another 2 projects since and i know i should just put my time and effort into 1 not 3. anyone know any suggestions would be good, cause I'm contemplating selling up. cheers

i have a set of what i can determine are ra40 struts, it has 260x21mm vented rotors with twin piston sumitomo calpipers that are running ra40/60/mx62 brake pads with ford corsair king springs. i never built this setup only found it in the ke35 i bought... what makes the ra40 setup unsafe?. the car has the ra40 lcas, steering knuckles and bolts straight into the strut tops

Name: Adam Car: 1978 KE35 Motor & Driveline: was 5k 5spd, soon to be 3tgte Suspension & Brakes: mx32 brakes custom king springs, ford 9" with ribbed xy rear drums reset leafs Wheels & Tyres: 5spoke style globe mags, 15x7 195/50/15 205's rear Interior: modded ke70 front and rear seats Body: Stock, looking at 1" flare on arches, maybe slight boot lip

http://www.classicjapaneseshowandshine.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=19&Itemid=27 http://www.qldraceways.com.au/index_flash.html

oi, lakeside is having a japanese raceday tomorrow, called late tonight and weather is no problem, whos goin apparently theres expected 200plus cars racing, 1/8th mile, sprints, time trials, its 8-430 tomorrow $20 whos down?

glad i read this after i bought a set of xt130 struts today for my ke35.... lucky I'm doin up the brakes. anyone want some xt130 lcas? :P

bump still for sale, got better photos if you want them emailed, come check it out its a tidy little car now $1800 its gotta go need more space cheers.

check out exotic exhausts at sumner park 3279 6355, awesome work and great customer service, i got some work done there, dropped it off, took about an hour and they were busy and was cheap.

bump :lolcry:

up for sale is a td gemini very good body for age with very small rust, awesome condition for a gemini of its age. Fitted with a g200 2.0lt motor, 5spd, new clutch, new oil filter,engine oil, spark plugs, gearbox fluid, new holden dealer purchased torque tube rubber over($250) new diff fluid, 15" mags, good tyres rear 80%, front 101% brand spanking new. stereo, good interior,seat covers, good carpet, sports air filter, extractors, 2 1/2" exhaust, newly reground tighe cam. Very cool, nice car, runs well with good power. Had the car for over a year and a half. Purchased for a learner driver who hasnt got there p plates in that space of time so the gemini must go. Not selling with RWC or registration. Please call/email to inspect the car or more photos/information. Thanks and give me a bell if your interested. Cheers Adam. 2200 ono.

Hi, up for sale i have a friends mitsubishi triton 2wd ute. Quick sale needs as owner has a new car, please call or email to negotiate. Power steering, aircon, ally bull ball, tow bar, ally tray, tinted windows, new tyres RWC and 6 months rego. Great condition 1 owner only 67000kms. Owner looking for a larger car. must sell, 10500 O.B.O. negotiable Cheers. Car is located in Jindalee in West Brisbane. Please call Adam on 0410315715 thanks

sold

gday lads, picking up a 3tgte in a few weeks, and ive been researching forums high and low. as far as i know without having the 3t infront of me, is it has standard computer, injectors, turbo. it has a 2.5" dump pipe and exhaust off a ct20 with small front mount cooler and bov. prior to dropping the motor into my car, its a ke35 with modded mounts, is there anything i should do or look out for, or drop it in and go from there?. i want to change plugs, oil, filter, any gasket that looks like its seeping, before it goes in, then i guess drop it in and run a compression test. i know the exhaust manifolds can crack, so ill mag particle test it at work. mainly with this post what I'm aiming for is a good starting project to get the car boogeying. ive got no drama dropping the motor in, but don't wanna pull it out in a week to find everythings f@$ked, but i guess its hard without it running to start with. are there any points/parts to look for with problems, onces its in is it worth converting to coilpacks and aftermarket computer and if so what is a suitable option? i know its old tech and there are some tricks here and there. i will be abusing the f@$k out of this forum once i get my hands on the motor, but lookng for a heads up. cheers and let me know what ever u know

it really all depends on whos gonna buy the car when you want to sell it. it might be original as but that means everythings 30yrs old, shocks sag, brakes go, balljoints, tierods, cooling system, engine, exhausts rust out etc.... if the car was regulary serviced and really tidy example like no rust, good paint, good interior your looking at around 3grand maybe more maybe less. i just sold my 35 hardtop and its funny when i tell people how much i sold it for and they laugh saying they bought and sold them back in the 80's for a few hundred.

bout to pick up a shell and i have the intentions of a track/dirt car, but registered. would it be cheaper and more idea to half cage the car, or to spot weld the body and chassis?? ive read a few links and posts, but they all refer to different cars. i saw the ke10 done up on this website with spot welding in the rear. has anyone had a crack at welding there body and where are some major spots to consider for movement and twist?, ive heard bout welding shock towers but ill need to look into it cause it sounds like they can stress out and crack. The car is a ke35 hardtop. what about re-enforceing the chassis has anyone had an improvement from that?

so whats the verdict everyone? majority leaning to sr? i;ll see if i can't find a cheap write off and start the project