springersrolla

Cheers man can I leave the blues?

Hey guys want to know what and where the 2 invidual blue wires and the joint red wires do and go? I need to hook up to a ke35 wiring loom. Any help would be f@$kin awesome thanks

need to wire up my ke35 loom to ke70 spd gearbox. does anyone know what colour to what? i have nothnig to run off and no wrecker cars to use. all i need is the 2 colours running to the gearbox and i will sort out the rest cheers

that photo is f@$king awesome, imagine how well it would drift. more power is needed, chase up a flux capacitor. wreckers should have them for cheap

who wants to buy one $150

3.9:1would be ideal but i don't know if i could get up to speed in traffic if i needed to, would definately be worth tryin to see how it drove. its a huge jump in ratio

altezza my fuel method is identical to how u say, fill it up, drive 100km see how much ive used. i can only fit 37lt in my tank before the fuel comes out the filler, i couldnt get more accurate each time. first time i ran 100km i got 8.18lt, probably 40% highway/60% street. it now runs dominately highway drives and i think the 4.3 is giving it the dramas, sounds painful as sittin at 110 but happily sits there all day. ive heard about hyrdogen but couldnt be f@$ked i;ll keep driving it and see how it goes. the auto is no doubt the problem, but its advantage is it wont let it rev

correct u are. need to work on my maths obviously, still curious to see if i could get to 500km from the tank at least

it runs like a bag of shit on/and e10 kills cars. not concerned on the cost, f@$k 10c a litre is 3.70 down the track, I'm chasing more mileage. also the tyres are 175/70/13's I'm guessing a set of 15's would help

Gday, probably not the most common question on her cause its got nothing to do with how to get more power, just how to get better economy, currently running ke70 auto, totally bog stock, fresh service, all new fluids, plugs etc.. head has just been fully reco'd just got 413km from 37lt. this is pretty consistant running on 98 octane, 12deg advanced timing, majority highway driving with diff gear singing at a nice 4.3:1. averaging around 11lt/100 ---- corrected to 8.95/100 any advice on what will help reduce consumption?, not interested overly in changing gearboxs or diffs, exhausts as a mate drives it,just wondering if anything can help lower consumption cheers

pacemaker used to. you can now get redback i believe. last quote i got was 220

at the end of the day tig will far outperform any visual appearence. if all u got is a stick at home the job is still acheiveable. play around, practise on scrap. f@$k after the first few welds you;l know if your confident, capable and ready to do it

dude cigweld weldalls. thats what there called, designed for stainless 2.5mm low amps job done

use cigweld weldalls. should be able to pick them up from bunnings or a half decent hardware store, go 2.4mm and run low amps, 40-60, see how you go. most of the pipe i weld is stainless or cast iron, perfect and airtight. Just go slow, practice, if you burn thru its too hot. how thick is the stainless pipe your welding? most of the biggest pipe weld jobs in the world are done by stick you should be right welding bits of little bits

just curious to know if there are 3/4/5k extractors that come in different sizes?, primarys secondarys etc... ive just picked up a set of pacemakers which apparently arent made anymore, and i could buy redback extractors new, i only know of 4 into 1's, but has anyone played around with different primary sizes to see if one makes more torque than the other, horsepower. was on this site the other night and just got me thinknig, http://www.minimania.com/web/DisplayID/1892/SCatagory/ENGINE/DisplayType/Technical%20Information/ArticleV.cfm well worth a loook, except i think hes got a bit of time on his hands cheers

yeh no dramas mate cheers, ive been driving the car all week, it works no worrys just probably 10mm diameter too large. spun me out when i saw it, but yeh, wanna get the right one on there. was gonna check the wreckers out tomorrow so may head out ther thsanks

gday lads i have a 4kc slant front ke70 with an unknown dizzy, not sure if its bosch or denco, because the labels worn off, and i can't tell whats what, anyways ive discovered theres around 3 or 4 differnet types of distributor caps. ive grabed a bosch **366 cap off the shelf, it is a touch to small, and doesnt have the notch in the cap that the dissy needs. The cap that is on the dissy now, is much to large for it, and just manages to push down with the clamps. ANyone got a dizzy picture, or what cap theyve found works? cheers

the tierod fork came to the rescue for me tonight. ive used the 2fingered tierod breaker with the wind in thread before, and broke one of the cast iron arms and sent it flying past my head when it snapped. of course i had all the p.p.e. on when that happend. problem was where the thread was it was practically resting fingers width from the engine crossmember so i had no room. i still find that if i do 4, and the first 3 will be easy as pie, and the last usually takes me an hour or so. ive been meaning to try that Freeze it in a can, but yeah its great to hear all the tips and advice. I've been lucky with good existing ones, usually put a bit of antiseize on the taper and it comes free with ease. Thanks for the options but lads

Ok, ive done alot of tie-rods and ball joints in my time, and wether its the first one, or the last one i do,i always get a stubborn one, i wanna hear your options or opinions on how you go getting that one annoying taper free i've used tie-rod/ball joint fork separators, the fork setup with the wind in thread, hammer on one end of tierod/ball joint - wind the nut out until i hit the nut instead of the thread, drive a chisel or wedge between the taper and the fixed part its stuck on weight or long bar putting weight or strain on the arm to give it something to help loosen it heat on the area to free it yet I'm still getting times where I'm stuck. Ive broken forks, broken the fork with thread shit, just wondering what you guys use as a method??? I'm currently doing the relay rod, next to the pitman arm, and stuggling to get an accurate hit of my drift onto the thread. whatever goes ive got it coated in penetrene and will see how i go tomorrow cheers

yeh man figured the same, leak between water and oil galleries, hopefully its not badly corroded. i guess change oil a few times and see how long i get out of it. cheers man, no dramas in trying a few flushes

ok, so if you check your oil and theres a sweet looking milkshake on the underside of the oil cap, and dipstick the headgaskets no doubt blown. compression reads 175, 175, 115, 150. oil is f@$ked. now my question is, is there a somewhat safe method of using the same bottom end without ripping it apart??. heads coming off to get skimmed and a quick reco/re seat, drop the sump and give a good clean. now if the gaskets just blown, am i able to run new cheap oil in the motor, drain after 10mins, new oil, run again, drain then drive it again?, or rip the motor out, sump off, timing cover off mains off and give it a freshen up?. not inclined to spend money just want it back on the road. motor still runs, drives, turns just bit of milky milky goin on in the sump any hot tips on sorting this shit out cheers

bump

i'd love boost, but the head was built soley na and if running 7cc pistons ill have something like 11.5:1 compression! i have to pull my finger out and get the valve springs sussed so i can decide what cam. once ive got the cam spec sorted i'l have to really pull my finger out, get rwc, rego, pull the motor out, sus the dish on the pistons and start spending some hard earned, its difficult at the moment so comeon everyone buy my shit!!! i need to know if the 4k motors ran a sandwich style intake/exhaust manifold setup and if it ran a straight 4-1 exhaust manifold with the 3 bolt triangle styled exhaust pipe. i bought a 5k in a ke70 and the original exhaust cleared easy for the rack and pinion. on the ke35 it rubs on the idler arm so I'm thinking of a clean cut and welding some flex pipe to the original exhaust so i can get the damn thing rego'd. then I'm off to get new extractors, cam, elect dizzy recurved and sort out intake. i have a nikki setup perfect and ready on ke30 pre polution manifold, but i'd at least like a 32/36. i wanna make it to jap show and shine in july but need to flare my guards and quick paint job. might roll there in matte black before sorting out the body;) see how she goes

yeh cheers for the advice, ive read everything 10times on here, but its better to get real advice from real rolla drivers with what setups they ran. I'm heavily persuaded to the hydraulics as they are already there, and i don't have to adjust them as soon as i hear a rattle. i like the fact that its a quieter k motor than solids also. coln72 what sized cam were you running?, i have to check the springs i have for tension but id like to just work out a nice cam, bolt the head on throw a weber on and then down the track look for more power thru twins

gday gday. ok so here it is. i have a ke35 with a fresh bottom ended 5k. up top ive bought a worked and flowed double valved spring 5khead running approx 150cfm. i need to determine a cam, and in theory need to determine valve springs to suit the cam. i am in the process of checking spring pressure, bind and closing load. but as it stands. DO I???? choose solids or hydraulic lifters.? Tighe has told me to straight swap my 5k valve train for 4k solids. everything is a straight swap. lifters, rods, cam and rockers. how true is this and is so, what is my benefit? i am close to purchasing a single 42DCOE weber and am wondering if I'm going to lose power and will it be a worthwhile swap ideally i am looking for a motor happy to sing to 7 occasional 8thou rpm, lightened flywheel, freeflowing extractors, 2" open exhaust i just need to decide cam, induction and lifter spec. i will be getting the dizzy recurved to suit the cam. the head has been skimmed 30thou, and i have no idea of compression ratio until i cc the slugs in the motor. any help would be fantastic. i can only take so much info from cam grinders/engine rebuilders until i get real corolla driver info cheers adam