springersrolla

just check out everything thats gonna cost you money down the track. everythings probably stock if its standard, so wear and tear will hit all tierods, balljoints,bushes, brakes, suspension, tyres etc... id check the boot, pull out the boot seal rubber and check the tracks for rust, also take the spare tyre out and check for rust. dash's crack, seatbelts fray 3k is a good motor just service it and itl be good for another hundred thou. you shouldnt have much drama finding a nice car good luck

Hahahah cheers Jason, Yeh that's it! Turbo or nothin!! Need a few bits and pieces but shouldn't be to much work now. Just stoked to have the old one out and new project in

Everything fits!!!! Bolted the 3tc home on the crossmember I modifyed at work and the home made manifold sits pretty under the bonnet, not much to play with but who gives a ʞ©$ɟ its a big enough turbo anyway. I'm goin down the turbo weber route asap so whoever have a adaptor plate for sale help me out!!!! Hydraulic clutch is all sorted, and got the solid lines from the t18 to slave but I will buy a new slave also. Stoked about having a clutch that doesn't use a circlip on some ally grooves to hold it on! Now just set on chasing a radiator and should be right to start, also gotta braze a sump drain. picked up braided stainless oil feed for free:). Have extractors and twin 40mm webers sitting here and don't know whether to bolt all in na and drive or just go whole hog on the LSD 9" t50 turbo 3t path. Everything is ʞ©$ɟing sitting there screaming for me to use it. Also found a cool mod plate guy that said he would do turbo, brakes, diff, engine on the one plate. Anyways it'll come out again this week for me to play around and then ill just stuff stupid boost in it then blow it up and stuff stupid money in it. Feels good to be proactive occasionally!! Excuse the half cut phone photos!

I don't reckon uve got much to lose, I've just finished modifying my crossmember to suit 3t from t18 with ta22 engine mounts, apart from hydraulic clutch it should be pretty easy, I've been meanin to fit the 3t and t50 into my ke35 but work shit hours and haven't had the time, nothing to lose if u can do it for cheap, and then turbo down the track

what exactly are you trying to achieve?

ill check for you tomorrow whenever i get the ʞ©$ɟ out of mackay, but i have rt132 struts and i believe i have rthl-13 king springs..... something like that, that should be from i was quoted a ford capri convertable. if this is the case, i think you could still find a captive shock for the length of the lowered spring. if anything i may pull mine out because they are gettin slightyl soft, but really reset rears and lowered front my car shits all over standard

quote Just buy it and use it... That's about what I'd expect to pay for an average one, in all honesty youll never know, check for shaft play, free spin in both input and output shafts. all you can hope is that the person selling it is honest. if i have a diff or gearbox thats too noisy why keep it and sell it... if only people would think the same way as me. if you trust the seller, at least you have half a hope of a good buy. a noiy box isnt an indication of a dead box. if it throws itself out of gears, doesnt shift welll etc well you know you've ʞ©$ɟed up. just bargain. its a second hand box, youve never driven it and its gonna be a ʇ~~ɔ to fit to find its ʞ©$ɟed. have fun

does it run 1 stud with a s shape? I'm missing that i think its my problem, thanks mate

hey guys trying to get a part number for weber adaptor plate from redline, i think i have found that one bolt has a S shape to sit the carby on to, can anybody confirm this and a part number>?? i don't have the bolt, only got the plate so i may have to bend some booker rod. i have a 10-220 is this the same at what others are running?>>> cheers

hey dudes been a while since ive updated, i picked up a 4.3 diff cause my 4.11 was whinging like a poofta, got my rear springs reset and new superpro bushes throughout the rear end. bolted it in and has been great. no more tramp and sorted my koni adjustables out in the rear, still got a bit to play around with. i got the shits and couple of weeks ago i picked up a ke55 engine cross member and remade mounts to suit my new 3t. i made a turbo manifold from 1 1/4 steam pipe with a t3 flange reasdy for a 38mm gate, running a t04e and picked up a 32/36 weber with blower hat ready to turbo.. still unsure on the direction but ill put up some photos. started a new job this week so my time is now non existant, but am aiming to put the 3t in and get everything mod plated before i start diving in to the boost realm, stand by in the next week or 2. what do ya reckon cheers

grab a long length of hose or a long screw driver and at least try and centralise the area the sound is coming from, does it click click click faster or louder with rpm?

i put sigmas in mine, got the wheel alignment and i think there was around -2.2degrees, it has a noticeable stance but as K&S says it handles heaps better, wind a die nut down your castor rods and off you go. Its not overly difficult, i had to grind down the lca bushes and filed the taper on the ball joints. would definately recommend doing it to upgrade the handling http://www.reocities.com/colosseum/4883/ and check out handling mods johnnys the man

you pretty much answered your own question

i'd be inclined to change the sender/ run an aftermarket electric temp gauge, its cheap insurance irrespective and it doesnt sound like it can be much else

swapped my points dizzy for electric one to kill some time, all sorted in about 1hour, good time well spent

Is this a bit of a swap meet aswell// I'm down but wanna know if the rolla boys are meeting beforehand?? What's the admission fee and when do i have to be there by?/, please let me know I'm leaving ippy round 8

As for cas check out megasquirts and 32:1 wheels, heaps on info on US websites and toymods. I would lean towards a Ford efis??... Run a sensor of the crank with a sensor to determine engine rotation/degrees, have seen many sweet setups in 3ts. Are you goin turbo or just standard

WANT!!! man I have a 3tc I'm looking at turboing and want efi, 2tg will work, but an adaptor plate needs to be made, you will find this irrespective of whatever plans you have, manifold width, port size, injector size, everything would be a contributing factor. I know www.brdracing.com have manifolds, but yes I'm in the same boat. If I can find something with similar port distribution I could adapt a 3tc flange and run that I would be better off price wise. Let me know what you find and I will, the furtherst I got was comparing 2tg to 3tc inlet manifold gaskets. Maybe all I need is some encouragement. Pm for more insight cheers

What's your float doin? Is the needle and seat installed right?

I guess first thing is to check/ test thermostat, and possible replace with a colder one if nescessery to ensure its working right, I didnt get it over 70degree on my gauge last night so I want to remove the fan to help warm my engine up. I'll give it all a try and see what happens, Ny guidance to set on/off temps for my switch? I don't want the engine unnecessarly hot or cold, really just optimal operating temp. Cheers

i read this again, my question is, i will buy a thermo fan and thermatic switch to suit, but waht temp is ideal to my situation, i don't even think i'd get the blades to turn on the drive home/ which isnt a bad thing.... but when it heats up i will need it to be reliable. what temp do i set my measley motor to??? many thanks

9gday lads, currently I'm running a 5k ke35 corolla with stocko engine fan, ive been finishing at 11pm every night and outside temps are approx 10deg, with thermostat, recoed radiator and standard fan, I'm running aprox 70-80 degrees through my stock fan(sender built into thermostat housing) running aftermarket gauge, so what I'm thinking, is not only help the motor spin quicker/less drag/less restriction when not needed, what is my ultimate running temp i should be aiming for???? when i get home, and on the drive home i never reach any excess temp, i watch the gauge regulary and nothing ever exceeds what it should, ive read a few forums about fords/chevs saying they make more power when there colder, but ʞ©$ɟ I'm running a 5k corolla engine, surely theres a average engine temp i should be aiming at good old sunny qld wont give me 10degree nights forever but while its here i may aswell bolt a shroud and thermo fan with a thermatic switch but I'm just wondering do i bring it on early in the cooler months, or a set range is fine or what???, i know that a engine fan is useless in temps this cool whats everyone think??? run it cold or at a set temp?? I'm open to ideas cheers

I'm down, whats the details?

search

biggest things i would look at are general age of everything in the car, are the shocks standard, brakes, tierods, bushes, tyres, service history, rust? is the car auto? manual? things like this all vary a price, and then at the same time who has the money to buy a car that needs/or doesnt need work. they are all the things i look at and factor and budget when i buy a car, and ive bought many. the old corollas arent as common anymore, especially in good condition, but yeh it really depends on all those things above. and i hate it when I'm selling a car, and someone will offer me money without even seeing the vehicle, that statement - i can't tell you, without seeing it hope it helps and goodluck