oldeskewltoy

A bit of of anticipation is a good thing, but.......... A few more modifications.... this time on the interior. When I got the car the interior was actually pretty good... quite a bit dated.... but for a 26 year old car it was fine. The dash had a few cracks... that would require either a replacement... or something a little custom ;) Rebuilt with a hand stitched cover... Oh... and why not add a nice Nardi flat spoke to jazz it up just a bit :thumbsup: Now... besides the new dash cover... and the vintage Nardi... on a vintage potmetal hub - (very old... these were outlawed and the collapsible type was used there after) I also had my friend David... remember David? Anyway David is also into building custom guitars... and so he knows woods, and inlays.... With David's help we built the only real wood dash veneer in an E7 Corolla in existence... (at least as far as I know) The piece in front of the driver has gotten a tung oil rub while the piece in front of the passenger side is prior to tung oil. Interior continued.... ;) Although the original seats were in decent shape... 30 year old Corolla seat offered little support for any kind of "spirited" driving.... so I was on the hunt for a set of Recaros. Why Recaros?? Why not some cheap a$$ seat? I have a fair amount of experience with driving, and seats... I've had a few cars with garbage seats (70s Capri... 67 Mustang... 66 Shelby... and a few others) and I've had cars with great seats.. (85 VW GTI, same Capri, but now with Volvo 242 GT seats, 1980 Capri RS w Recaro interior) So I was on the hunt for a set of Recaros I could slip into Surreptitious... My first choice.... :wootjump: period correct Recaro.... To borrow a quote from Maxwell Smart... " I missed them by that much........" I saw them and inquired about them about 45 days after they sold.... Oh well.... :oops: My next option came from a craigslist search... down in San Diego... a decent set of solid blue Recaros.... They needed cleaning... but that wasn't the biggest problem... it seems that someone was selling another persons stuff.... long story short... I didn't lose any money... but I also didn't get any seats from San Diego. :(( With San Diego a failure.... I next found a set locally.... an odd set too... This set of Recaros I've nicknamed "CCR" - Cop Car Recaros.... it appears that this set of Recaro seats likely were originally fitted to a mid 90s Lumina Cop car.... The top half is unique, not nearly as aggressive as the typical Recaro. Not only is the top less aggressive, but I've retro-fitted a set of Corbeau air bladders to improve lumbar support. Here is the driverside installed... with the original Toyota seat on the passenger side. Although looking quite similar... the Recaro supports the body far better then the soft OEM seat. Now with both seats fitted... LEARN about Recaros from someone who worked there!! - http://www.toymods.o...-Resource-Guide More interior to come....... :D

I try to make sound decisions based on over 30 years of automotive experience. This was a good one.

As far as the oil cooler, the stock cooler (imho) isn't much of a cooler since the "cooled" oil is dumped back into the HOT oil pan! As far as enough oil pressure... I've put over 11,000 miles on her so far with no oil related issues.... but in the same breath, I've yet to take her to a full track day. She has been "tuned" on 3 different dynos... and dyno tuning can be VERY hard on an engine, especially if it is a load-able dyno - meaning the operator can increase the load while "driving" so the engine can be forced to hold an rpm even while at W.O.T. There are no larger pumps for the 4AG... Toda makes a harder set of gears (for use @ and above 8500-9000), but the only way to get MORE oil... is using a dry sump. The fuel line sizes are likely ok... the AE86 EFI tank also has baffles inside, minimize fuel being drawn away from the pick up. Also I'm using a fuel pump from an Acura(American Honda) Integra (mid 1990s). This fuel pump delivers about 20% more fuel, enough to supply fuel, yet not so large as to overly circulate fuel like a Walbro 255 would. The car now has an engine(with oil cooler), wiring, a fuel system, a management system but as of yet there isn't a driveline - transmission... :hammer: Both the AE86 and the AE71 came with Toyota's T50 5 speed transmission, so whats the big deal in the driveline you might be asking? For now the big deal is setting up the hydraulics for the driveline. In a later(still too come) post there is a LOT more change. The Ae71 comes with clutch fork access on the driverside of the bell, while the later GT-S used the passenger side of the bell. The factory switched sides because the engine went from the exhaust on the passenger side for the single cam engine to the exhaust on the driverside on the dual cam one, so Toyota switched sides. I now had a dual cam and so the exhaust, and clutch slave are on the same side All I had to do was swap to a GT-S bell and change the plumbing to GT-S type... BUT.... the entire engine management wiring is now roughly in the area that the new clutch line would need to follow... not desirable. ... LESS desirable... a hydraulic line touching the exhaust! (similar to this) :wtf: Another full custom solution.... :thumbsup: I retained the 4AC slave cylinder, but changed the clutch plumbing. Instead of crossing from the frame rail, I re-designed the lines. First I went and got new hardline and bent it similar to the GT-S line, but stopped it on the driverside, and dropped it straight down. Above photo shows the original soft line line attached to the new hard line. Once I had a hard line, I contacted Stuart @ TechnaFit. I asked him if he thought I could change the soft line from a straight thread in to a banjo type mount. He saw no reason I couldn't mount the soft line with a banjo bolt, and so I had him make me a custom soft line This is a great pic because it shows the line actually runs behind the bellhousing, and so is far away from interfering with anything.... Even down here... there is nearly 3" of room between the headers and the top of the banjo bolt The rest is just getting the clutch installed and aligned... and install the transmission and driveshaft. More to come...... :D

If you looked carefully at this photo you'll see an oil cooler placed directly in the center opening. That oil cooler was just a prop.... It doesn't fit because a flat 2 row cooler interferes with the center hood support. What I needed to find was a curved cooler... something like this Above is an oil cooler typically used on motorcycles. I called Earl's and asked them if their curved coolers would work in a car' date=' they asked me for the engine size... and placement on the vehicle. Once they saw where it was going, and knew the engine size was 1606cc, the Earl's rep saw no reason it wouldn't work.... he was right it has worked beautifully for the past 3+ years. So now that I had a cooler... brackets are needed. Using aluminum plywood edging cut, bent, doubled up.... Some parts you get at the dealer... some parts you get in the aftermarket.... some parts you get at the junk yard, or a friends.... but some parts are just not available unless they are built expressly by, or for you. These are one of those parts... weighing in at under 4 ounces!!! [img']http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j143/oldeskewltoy/ae71/coolerbrackets.jpg[/img] The welding could be better, but they are structurally fine - and free beats paying! Oh... the holes(down on the bent end) are purposely shaped the way they are. Each allows some adjustment so that when I install the rivet nuts*, machine perfection isn't required. The holes, all of them, are designed to accept a 6mm(10mm wrench size) fastener. * - Rivet Nut... self-explanatory ...and here is the finished job. I forgot to take pics as I was doing this... and I wasn't going to disassemble it just to take pics! What you see in the above photo is one of the brackets double bolted to the front cross member. Here is the cooler no longer "supported" by lumber, or shop rags, but fully mounted with the brackets. Note the cooler hose is routed thru the grill support - can you see the custom grommet?? The hose mounted through the grill support will help somewhat in minimizing any frequency vibration that may occur, it is a nice snug vibration free mount. If you think the routing of the one hose is creative.... the routing through the firewall, and how that was finished goes a step beyond. Many cars of that era might be manufactured for many markets, and so some parts might be universal, and made to fit. The front radiator support is one of these parts. Note I used an unused pass though to get the oil cooler lines from the engine compartment to the front of the car where the cooler resides. What is unique, and creative.... I used a common sway bar bushing, split and carved to allow for a custom plug to isolate the cooler lines from any chance of rubbing on the radiator supports sheet metal. The tap off the engine is at the oil filter housing, I'm using a thermostatically controlled Mocal adapter. The lines "jump" to the inner frame rail... mounted with a "P" clip Along with the cooler the engine management monitors engine oil temp... and can shut the engine down if the oil temps get too hot :thumbsup: Now for the fuel system...... In 1983.... the only rwd Corolla with fuel injection... was not sold in the USA. Surreptitious began life as a carbureted 1.6, and so the fuel system was designed to accommodate carburetion... NOT efi. More luck... the AE86 GTS was the first rwd Corolla to have fuel injection, and as with quite a few other parts the fuel tanks are VERY similar to the earlier E7 cars. Surreptitious's original fuel tank A replacement/donor from an AE86 GTS Why did I do it this way? Why not just mount an inline pump and be done with it? The original fuel system was designed for an engine producing 80hp(+ or -)... not more than twice that much. The fuel system was going to need more than an inline pump, it was going to need a larger diameter line. If you look carefully at the top of both tanks you can see the efi output line is more substantial then any of the carb based lines. Now for some "bad" luck. As much as Surreptitious is similar to an AE86... I bound squarely into, "Nope... not quite". The fuel lines, along with the brake line run the length of the car. All the lines are bound together inside metal clamps. Since the cars are so similar just swap them all............ Nope... not quite. The brake tube terminus for both cars is on the fire wall... but for some reason, the E7 tube mounts in 180 degrees differently then the AE86 tube. We, Jeff the shy guy from earlier, and I disassemble the line assemblies, we remove the AE86 brake line and incorporate the AE71 brake line into the AE86 fuel lines, then mounting them all where they were mounted originally. That wasn't the only problem to overcome... the original tank has a flexible filler neck, while the GTS tank has a hard pipe filler.... and since this is the bad news section of this post... the two filler necks are NOT swappable... the bolt pattern and overall diameter just don't allow swapping the necks. So... some "neck surgery" by David... ;) The filler neck was cut across the underside of the curve, and it was "opened" up and a small wedge of steel was welded changing the angle of the filler neck so it would fit.... Once the original filler neck upper mount was cut away... the EFI cap is neatly nestled behind the fuel door and now that the AE86 EFI lines are incorporated, a slight change in the pressure line terminus allows for a "floating mount" away from the inner fender allowing more space for other needed components More to come....... :D

BUT... that allows you to use any header available... those of us in LHD land are stuck trying to fit a header between the steering column and the frame rail some easy... some hard.... what is that old adage... "grass is greener on the other guys lawn" Ohhhh... I forgot... I promised a photo of David..... remember ALL the body modifications are his handy work..... Speaking about David's handy work.... I haven't yet shown you the rear end modifications. As I've already noted... I did have some luck with this project.... the replica FOHA spoiler on the front (remember FOHA, the Austrian aero company?). Well I managed to score(lucky part) a genuine FOHA rear lip(aka "ducktail") spoiler. and then you look at the behemoth bumper :yak: :yak: (sorry that ugly ass bumper requires 2 sets of barfers....) David took care of that as well.... utilizing the original bumper, the 6" padded extension(about 35#s) was removed to expose the steel structure underneath. He then made filet panels to enclose the original steel structure in a more tailored fit Before.... After.... Also worth noting the blacked out license plate lamps... chrome before, matt black now. More to come.... :D

The engine is in... the wiring is coming along well. Its time to begin to locate the other engine compartment components. Along with running sequential injection, I'm also running a wasted spark ignition. For the unknowing... "wasted spark" refers to the fact that each spark plug "fires" twice per 4 stroke revolutions, once at the typical time - when the air fuel charge is compressed, BUT also when the exhaust valve is open and the piston is coming up to expel the exhaust charge. Since there usually is nothing happening at this time the system is called "wasted spark" Here are the massive coils... GM type... but reworked by FJO it is placed in the first version of my handmade coil mount... ORIGINALLY... I had planned to mount the coils where the wiring harness came through... I'm glad I changed my mind... it is so perfect for the harness pass through.... so with the harness pass through now using the original idea for the coil mount, I had to find another location for the coils. The intake side of the engine is substantially cooler then the exhaust side, this small fact lends itself to not only the coil location... but ALL vital bits are on the passenger side (intake side) note the mounted MAP sensor behind the coils, and the custom placement of the fuel filter. The ignition wires are Magnecor 8.5mm resistor wires, the loom holders are from SAAB. There is even room for the charcoal canister What to do about air filtration? More friends... what else??? :thumbsup: This one is Kris... he is also an AE86 guy... but he is also into off road stuff and had this V6 Ranger that he no longer used the original air box... The Ranger uses a 2.9 liter V6... so from an air volume POV I should be ok using it for my 1.6 Not only does it fit neatly, but it also has a perfect location for the FJO air temp sensor. And with a little bit of Home Depot thrown-in... ....so the air box can collect the cooler air from directly behind the passenger headlamp. spark... MAP sensor... fuel.... and filtration.... Sharp of eye?? Can you see the radiator overflow port? See that it is pointing to the airbox? The only problem with using that airbox was I lost the original location for the overflow' date=' and washer fluid reservoirs. [img']http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j143/oldeskewltoy/ae71/overflowandwashertanks1.jpg[/img] At first I tried to separate them and find alternative locations... but that just didn't cut it..... so... upon another offer from my boneyarding friend... Johnny, I stumbled upon the solution... another Honda part... again from a Civic... Apologies in advance for the following photo... it was cobbled together and blown up a bit too much for clarity... but if you look closely you can see a bracket in the upper right fabricated from the Civic overflow mount and a bracket found at the boneyard... then welded together green arrow on left view, and upper right inset, and then purple view in right, and upper right inset And when fully plumbed in.... More to come...... :D

Post up what you have, ... and if you know what they belong on... and what market they came from.... AE71 - GT badge, and "DOHC" badge. Neither originally available in the USA Condition on the GT badge 7.5-8.0(slightly faded and a few tiny flecks of paint missing) , condition on DOHC badge 10 Inquiry..... the side moldings behind the door on a frameless door E7 model - on my car says "COROLLA". Do all of these moldings say Corolla, or do some markets say "LEVIN", or "TRUENO"?

agreed.... BUT... to ACCURATELY measure those clearances... the common(under $50) micrometers, and calipers can be just as inaccurate. This is why I don't usually do my own bearings... but I have a shop I know/trust do them, they have VERY accurate equipment (to .0001") and I just triple check........

Ta64 Group B Celica :bounce:

assuming you kept the factory management... and then fitted to your E7? So with the cooling system well in hand and now requiring an electrical supply for that Sienna cooling fan... Mark begins to wire in the engine managment.... FJO Racing WAS a small company in Canada that built a mil spec management system known as the 341b.

no problem.... I thought you might want it done sooner.... I expect to modify the zenki cluster sometime over this winter... I'll make sure I do a write up....

So... back to the build itself.... the body is mostly finished, and I have Mark, who is far more "electrically" inclined then I am doing the re-wire.......

Difficult is a tough description... in reality... no, but it did take all kinds of changes... and it took destroying the E7 tach assembly for parts to allow the newer tach to fit. BUT no re-wiring was required. **IF** you want, I can also do the swap for a small fee ($50 US) Since my friend has sent me the zenki cluster I've been debating re wiring that one as well... If I do the job again, I'd be happy to document it. In the mean time I did modify the AE82 tach face to fit inside the zenki cluster....

clutch can be bled... but it might need either the master cylinder, or the slave.

Hmmmm, have you yet enjoyed the trials and tribulations of Yahoo Japan? I've let you in on my excursions to Europe to find replacements for the Hella driving lamps, and to get the zenki cluster, now let me share the story of the wheel search for Surreptitious......... :popcorn: The wheel search begins in the winter 2008/2009. I have a friend.... (yep... another one, this one is named Jack aka "towat168") He told me that he had an account on YJ and that he bought and sold items from there often..... still does. The first set of wheels I found that I REALLY wanted.... I was outbid for.... SSR Air Stages... a staggered set no less :thumbsup:.... 15x7 +15, and 15 x 7.5 zero The bidding began @ 5000 yen... and my budget including freight was only $700 total... so @ 30000 yen I stopped. A side note... the EXACT SAME SET came up for sale @ one of the famous wheel sale sites... they were asking $1200 :lmao: I felt like crap.... but in the end... they weren't to be.... keeping up on the search I came across 2 other sets of wheels I bid on that I was also out bid for.... making 3 failed attempts.... Air Stagess.\/................ TOM'S 15x7" +15 \/ .................. Linea finned 15 x 6.5" +20 \/ The Linea wheels got me thinking a matched wheel and car combo might look very nice.... and then a set of 5 spoke wheels came up in my search.... Trakyoto Drag 902 5 spoke wheels are a staple of the muscle/pony car era.... and although not staggered, this set was well sized for Surreptitious 15 x 6.5 +22... they are also only 15#s each ... and cost a total.... including freight and fees.... of $540.00 :rock: The fact that they looked like classic muscle/pony car wheels like the Ronal R9... or the American Racing "Daytona" was just icing on the cake :thumbsup: More to come..... :D

thanks.... it still isn't finished.... but the end is in view.... Any ideas why I bought a cutting board??? I won't make you guess.... remember... I decided to completely rewire the car.... many of the fuse boxes, or relay mounts are designed to fit odd areas/recesses, the cutting board fits a need..... what a wonderful product... once shaped correctly to fit a place it works fantastic as a electric mounting surface... non conductive... easy to drill/and add screws... and it works.... and as the new harness is wired into the car....

as far as bearings are concerned.... I like OEM bearings if you can use them. The key (imho) to a solid Toyota "A" engine is proper bearing tolerances.... Since you are running wet sump, I'd use OEM specs Over the years Toyota adjusted clearances a small amount IDEALLY... keep the mains in the middle of the spec... I like to get the mains between .023 -.028mm AE92 - 42mm rod journal crank - main journals AE86 - 40mm rod journal crank - main journals AE111 - 42mm rod journal crank - main journals By keeping the mains in the middle you can go a bit looser on the rods if you choose... .035 - .040mm is my choice Rod clearances on AE86 and AE92... Rod clearances on AE111 Hope this helps.......

Not really built for drag racing.... but my Corolla has done 142kph (88.8mph) in the 1/4 mile.... not blistering.... but fun

In the top view there are 2 sets of amber lamps.... in the lower view only one. Toyota, in their infinite wisdom made the upper lamps, just outboard of the headlamps, into the parking lamps, and they buried the turn signals under the bumper. To be able to use my new front end, I needed to make the parking lamps pull double duty so they could be both parking... and directional signals. There isn't a lot of room for a 2nd bulb... Having found a place on the back side to add a lamp I first try an LED. A single LED is just not bright enough, so off to find something brighter.... something with at least a few watts... The only problem with the above bulb and mount was it was the only one I had..... .... so asking my friends over at www.hachiroku.net if anyone had any other lamps, the board owner "Delphi" aka Kenny, said that there were a pair of those used to light the wiper and headlamp switches on the AE86.... and sure enough he was right :yes: fitted... already cut away to provide pigtails... Now the wiring is sealed inside premium shrink tube (w/glue inside!) And the finished results........ The micro bulb is my parking lamps, the 194 bulb is now the directional signal Not only have I found a way for the parking lamps to pull double duty... I've also increased the safety by now having my directional signals view-able from the side... as well as the front! Safer and improved looks at the same time.... :wootjump: In the next post I'll discuss the use of this...... :wtf: More to come.... :D

yes... It is the mounting point under the distributor - http://www.hachiroku.net/forums/showthread.php?t=32963 as far as I know... its all 16V 4AG heads... now just to quell the riot, it doesn't happen with all the heads... BUT it is safest to be proactive if possible.

Anybody????

I'm not sure if you noticed.... in all of the body work shots there is something missing... there is no wiring! Early on I had decided that 30 year old wiring... relays... and previous owners... was too much. I removed almost all of the original wiring... 99%... the other 1% was the tail lamp pigtails, and the connectors to the instrument cluster. I replaced the harness with a 20 Mini circuit harness kit from EZ Wiring... half the cost of Painless But that doesn't account for the engines wiring..... :hammer: Have I told you that I'm not typically a patient person :bash: So let me introduce to you another friend.... not sure he thinks so... but Mark is very good when it comes to wiring.... Above he is beginning to work with the engine management wiring, you can see the ECU on the right foreground. Below he is beginning to mount the EZ harness and as if you didn't notice in the first pic of this post... and the most recent pic... the dashboard is not in the car.... It too is being gone over, this time by me, to make sure that 30 years of use have been cleaned and re-sealed where needed At this point there is a lot happening. Mark is wiring the chassis with the engine, and transmission out of the car... but once the chassis is moderately wired the engine needs to go in so he can run the management wiring. There is other work happening too.... additional custom work Custom #4(#1 is the bumper, 2 and 3 are the new wiring) Here is a before and after photo of the front end.... What is missing, that is NEEDED?? more to come... :D

stock valves.... stock seats.... but yeah... maybe not stock in the strictest terms.... :evil: A bit of back tracking is needed here... at the time I began the engine build I was driving my nearly flawless 1987 Corolla GT-S coupe (also with a few mods... but thats another build story :hammer: ) This car had a modest 112whp (about 130hp @ the crank), and although running numerous mods, it was in essence still mostly stock, running on stock engine management. I had just finished building a 4AGE that was going to need more then stock 4AGE engine management. I had to decide to either seriously modify my very clean AE86... or sell her to help finance the new car.... I sold her in 2009 :( Prior to selling her, I did manage to find the chassis for the new engine.... a pretty rare 1983 Corolla Sport Coupe.... sans engine... :paperbag: Here are a few more pics of her prior to work.... I began to strip her... and when I got to this point\/.... all the bells and whistles in my head began to go off.... I began to see what I wanted... I positioned in a set of vintage Hella Dynamic Energy DE2000 driving lamps* ... and an oil cooler * - http://i79.photobuck...ellaDElamps.jpg - The DE2000 eventually lead to the BMW projector head lamps Neat... clean... all it needs is a little something.... :popcorn: As with many other car builders, inspiration comes from odd places.... I had decided on the AE71 Corolla for a few reasons.... 1) it is the predecessor to the AE86 so most of the AE86 aftermarket could be utilized 2) There are not many (more now... less back in 2009) thoughtfully modified 7th generation Corollas out there 3) I wanted to turn a "wallflower into a head turner" and by utilizing the AE71 I could use my knowledge base (Toyota) to its best. that something came to me as I was trolling the internet.... and found this... A European drift car... clean' date=' and although a smaller bumper... [img']http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j143/oldeskewltoy/ae71/euroAE71fohacoupe.jpg[/img] it is still :yak: BUT... what I spy is a little bit of period correct performance body work....... a FOHA spoiler :bounce: FOHA is an Austrian company that was renowned in its day for making tasteful, and useful aero aids. I begin a search... and a Corolla enthusiast from the Philippines tells me he can make me a copy of the FOHA.... I commission the work... the product arrives about 5 weeks later.... When it comes to body work... I know all the process, and many of the tools... but body work is a total black art to me... quite a few people tell me my porting work is a black art... and to them it might be... but to me... the black art is being able to visualize another persons visualizations... and bring them to life..... Such a person is another one of my friends.... his name is David... (I'll show you his pic in a little bit....) I found David by looking through Craigslist in Portland. He had an advert up about body work... along with an email to David, I sent 5 more to other body shop, hotrod posters. Of the 6 emails... 5 got back in touch... My car... "sans engine" was not going to see them, so they came here... well 4 of the 5 did. David was the only one I connected with... who didn't want $8k+ :owned: David explained what he would do, listened to me when I told him that I wanted a clean - light - look.... We discussed the costs... The fender mirror holes, the antenna hole were all closed, along with the trim holes along the edge of the hood. David builds perches for the fog lamps... note the now broken 30 year old vintage driving lamp :rant: I can laugh about the broken fog lamp now... but back then.... where was I going to find a replacement??? Where else... the Netherlands.... huh.... wtf... the NETHERLANDS??? I'm a member of MANY forums... one of the AE86 forums I belong to is based in Europe... long story short... with my friends (gee more friends... :party: ) help I was able to find a set on sale in a Dutch sales forum.... I know have a spare :dance: So with the body getting ready for paint, David suggest Lexus Diamond White Pearl(051)... the idea... keep the car white... but jazz it up with a nice 21st century paint.... Next came the first truly custom part... from my imagination.... to reality... a shaped tube bumper.... part structure, part protection, part pure imagination :thumbsup: Early on when I was trying to figure out the front bumper... another friend... Jesse, suggested I begin the bumper by using the original bumpers mounts... so we drilled out the spot welds and dropped about 30#s from the very front of the car :thumbsup: They are being used to mount the new tube bumper Then we went to fitting the FOHA.... ...and once the FOHA was painted... and the raw bumper... ... a bit more assembled... but still without an engine The idea... as I saw it... was to carry the lines of the headlamps down to the bumper by ending the bumper under the outer edge of each headlamp... with the fog lamps peaking from their secluded location... I think we did a good job........ :D More to come...... :D

thats only the first posts..... I've got a LOT more coming..... ;) Before I go on to the cylinder head... I have to introduce you to one of my friends.... Meet Arnie Loyning - founder and owner of http://loyningsengineservice.com/ Loynings Engine Service has built some of the most powerful engines, for some of the fastest cars. Loynings has built engines that have won 27 National SCCA championships. A few (engine types) you might be familiar with: they have built 4AG Atlantics that exceed 270hp, and they have built a destroked (3.5 liter) 1GR that exceeds 420hp - NOT boosted :bounce: All the machine work on my 4AGE was performed by Loynings :rocknroll: so... lets move on to the head.... As stated I decided to use a smallport 4AGE cylinder head... but with a few modifications.... The first thing done on this head was to de-shroud the combustion chamber. De-shrouding is the process where you remove all the factory machining marks, and casting flaws from the chambers. This task was performed by me.... :wave: Chambers #1 and #2... top is before, bottom is after.... Chambers #3 and #4 before and after.... all four chambers finished The rest of the headwork was performed by Loynings Engine Service (http://loyningsengineservice.com/).... a multi-angle valve job was performed, along with a full radius back cut on the stock Toyota valves. intake bowl/seat - exhaust bowl/seat - intake port - exhaust port - The head was also machined to reduce chamber volume from 37cc (volume after de-shrouding) down to 33cc The machining of the head, in conjunction with the 10 to 1 piston raises compression to a moderate 10.75 to 1. Although no where near the cost of a typical Atlantic engine ($10k to $15k), my engine does carry a Loynings serial number just like the Atlantics do As the machine work was being finished @ Loynings I was looking for a very unique way of showing off my unique jewel of an engine... I decided on a set of custom laser engraved cam covers... With the head machine work finished, assembly of the valvetrain followed. The only non stock part in the valve train is a set of TRD valve springs. I went with the TRD because I was going to be running a cam with more lift then the stock springs could cope with. Also a much higher ramp rate was going to be used. Stock 4AG springs tend to bind at or very close to 8mm of valve lift. My new cams were going to have a lift of 8.38mm and much higher ramp rates, so new springs were going to be needed. Just to keep track there are now 2 types of parts in my engine that are not stock... valve springs, and wrist pins. A brief note here... the smallport 4AGE only was available in fwd configuration. This meant the manifold would be facing the wrong direction if left un modified. A simple "surgical" procedure was done to cut the plenum chamber from the runners, flip it around and then welded back together. This modification provided me with a few benefits besides the pleum opening facing the correct way, the flip also flipped all the manifold openings, and access points to the outside, instead of the inside. This allowed for easy access when it came to setting up the engine later on The head and block come together using a stock head gasket, and all new oil and water pumps As I alluded too above, the new valve springs were purchased because I purchased new camshafts. Web Camshafts 577 grind. The 577 is similar to most other companies "264" type camshafts when measuring the effective duration(@ .050" lift), but because they were designed with an accelerated ramp, their total duration is actually smaller then most other companies "256" type camshafts. Below are the new* Web 577s, along with a small collection of valve clearance adjustment shims, cam lube, caliper, feeler gauge, dental pick and SS Works* Adjustable timing pulleys. * - you can tell they are new because the lobes are not shiney... the lobes are coated with a friction modifier to help in camshaft break-in small Although those SS Works pulleys look sexy, they could not be used.... they were not manufactured to properly fit the cams I decided to use... Their pin drive hole was a VERY POOR fit.... as much as 4 degress of "slop" I ended up using T3 timing pulleys... which also had 2 errors... but both I could compensate for... error 1, pin drive hole was too small (I opened hole up for a perfect no slop fit), error 2 is they placed one of their drive holes in the wrong place requiring special instructions for their use thread jack now over we resume regular programming :hammer: Below are the tools required to find TRUE, ACCURATE TDC (Top Dead Center) A 360 degree timing wheel (with 1/2 degree markings), a piston stop, a timing pointer. timing pointer is visible pointing @184 1/2 degrees Once the timing wheel is fixed to the front of the crankshaft, the piston stop is threaded down #1 spark plug hole. The engine is rotated first one direction... till it stops because it contacts the piston stop, using a pencil mark the timing wheel. Then rotated the opposite direction until it stops, again mark the wheel. Count the number of hash marks between the 2 pencil marks and divide by 2... THAT is TDC. Once TDC is known.... we can begin cam timing. The new camshafts are installed, and the tools measuring valve opening are installed A dial indicator on a lockable adjustable mount along with a wire are the tools required. The wire is shaped to reach around the camshaft lobe and measure the valves movement directly from the shim/bucket assembly. Note you can see the friction coating gradually being wiped away. With all the tools in place timing is set to the specifications listed in the Timing card I posted above..... The finished engine awaiting installation... The final engine specifications: 1606cc: 81.5mm bore, 77mm stroke. Comp Ratio 10.75 to 1. All engine internals are stock with the exception of the wrist pins, valve springs and camshafts. More to come....... :D