oldeskewltoy

Easiest way to begin is showing you another 2 panel of chambers 3 and 4.... the top one you've seen before... ... the bottom one is new - Cylinder 4(on left) is where we begin.... all four bowls and seats have been blended, as well as the chamber deshrouded and intake guides minimized, the seats in #4 just need their valve job. How observant are you???? What else have I done that I didn't tell you?? :wtf: The intake bowls, and seats - 4 is shaped(on left), 3 is untouched.. Bowls are now round, blended out to meet the seats, the shape is carried out to the port. The short radius transitions smoothly from port floor to the valve seats, and the guides have been minimized. Chamber... Intake.... and now exhaust A comparison between 4 (on left) and 3 and a 2 panel showing progression of #4 from half shaped, to fully shaped More to come.... :D

Take 2........ The old head on top, the replacement below.... chambers are far better shaped! More to come........ :D

above is your affordable option.... :drinks: if you got the cash... LEEN in Ireland offers a complete kit, and or bolt in transmission swap to run a J160 6 speed from an Altezza/IS200. It isn't cheap, but it is once, and done

I have done a bit of filling... but in correcting an intake manifold, or using it to fill injector ports, nothing towards reshaping a port itself. Overall, I'm not a fan of goops, or puttys. It is pretty easy to improve most castings... even if it is just a little bit... the problem is the guy who thinks he knows... then things get out of hand. Here are 2 pair of 7MG intake ports - one side to shape, the other side not yet having been touched. edit - enlarge view, drew red translucent line just along edge of port floors to better distinguish port floor remains where it was before work began You can see the transition from port to bowl, and then to the valve seat are smooth, all of the machining has been blended the short radius on the left isn't smooth, its transition is choppy and disturbed and so short radius flow is disturbed. On the right I've worked the short radius, and yet note how the port floor is in the same place in both, I managed to create a gentle curved shape without lowering the floor to do it

The one head I sent out for cleaning, and pressure testing has pretty significant flaws.... Chamber #3 is not quite the same depth as chamber 4... you can see this by comparing "a" and "b' in both heads. and you can see heavy machining. Chambers 2 and 3 are pretty bad, 1 is just a little bad, and 4 is "ok". All those chambers have significant flaws, and it just isn't economically feasible to fix the flaws.... so I'm after another head..... more to come...... :)

The flowbench is a Flow Performance 2.0 kit. I would NOT recommend this kit because the usage instructions are poor, it took me over a year to figure out its correct use. I had a friend of a friend who is studying flow dynamics go though the entire manual and re-write it for me. As to the bench itself... I built it using a Baker's Rack type cart so I could make it mobile. The Shop Vac fits on the under tray PS - attempting to fix some of the photos... hopefully back up soon

a long time ago.... friend had a 4KE, his "porter" went hog wild... and then found a cracked head :wasted: He sourced another 4KE head and I ported it as best I could.... 2008 - so early in my porting career - minimal work just to get his replacement 4KE head to fit the intake ports on the ported 4KE intake manifold Not only do I work the ports... but when bad casting flash restricts oil movement, I work those areas too MOST of my work has been on the 4AG head, although I have worked a few 6 cylinder heads, and I'm getting into SR20DE heads as well... I also have a flowbench to quantify the work performed.... As to sending me a 4K head.... I'd be happy for more work....... :wootjump:

To the Rollaclub forum... I'm a cylinder head porter. I often post examples of my work in forums around the world... why I've missed this one for so long... I have no excuse.... :oops: and now on to the topic at hand..... As I always do... my client is anonymous, unless he wants to share. This head is sold to a client in California. This is his daily driver, that gets a track beating/work out every few months or so. Retaining emissions compliance is paramount, but we can get a bit more without offending the sniffer. This is a largeport head, it is the stock thickness, having never been re-surfaced. A key for me in figuring out overall "wear" is often judged on the condition of the old valve seals. The old seals that came from this head were still "pliable" (read as didn't crumble under finger pressure) - A few intake valves did show signs of build-up, the exhaust valves were all dry. #4 exhaust port Its pretty crowded in there, but a bit of seat to bowl blending, and a re-taper of the port will allow the exhaust gasses an easier path Now that it is stripped, its off the the machine shop to get cleaned, and de-carboned. Maybe they can get rid of that horrid paint for me too More to come...... :D

ASSUMING the AE101 clutch is like the earlier AW11 4AGZE clutch, then no. The AW11 4AGZE had 6 short stanchions that the pressure plate bolts to, on the stock 200 and 212 flywheels there are no such stanchions.

found this photo recently.......

one of my wifes favorite rides, hers rusted away back in 2002.... After we moved across the country... from east coast USA to west coast USA, I managed to find myself an AE95 sedan... lovingly referred to as Grunt. the engine wasn't that sound... had a knock in her for a while... I put together a "Super Duty" 4AFE - 20V block, 4AGE crank and rods, Japan market 2nd gen 4AGZE pistons, under a ported head ;) . Compression bump is to 10 to 1, I also installed a 2nd gen intake manifold for additional low end response.

thank you for the education on diffs... I occasionally forget therw are other markets with parts I'm unfamiliar with

Your KE70's axle code is most likely an "S" code... note the bottom line, far left "c/tr/a/tm" = color, trim, axle, trans. My axle code is S374. You can look up axle codes here - http://www.celica-gt...tial_codes.html The "S" code ring (crown) gear is 6.38" and is the predominant axle size in most E7 models (some 2TG powered GT models) were available with the larger "T" 6.7" ring(crown) gear, ALSO the AE86 GTS (Corolla model after the E7) came through with a "T" axle, and disc brakes Here I'm swapping in a "T" assembly for the original "S" unit - seen on the ground. The "T" housing/ring(crown) gear/assembly is the unit Weir Performance built their axle kit for.......

diff failure is more than power... it is also vehicle mass. The KE70 isn't very heavy... 1000 kilos (+ or -) You have a few options... Ford's 8.8, modified to take the E7's spring seats and trailing arms... or you might get away with a T housing fitted with Weir Performance axle diff kit - http://www.weirperformance.com/axlekitscompleterear.html

Can't wait to see.... There have been many solutions for fitting the J160. We've seen cut and welds, and plates - after all that was what "170BHP" used that gave me the idea in 2006. The plate does work, it works in many trans swaps, not just the 4AG/J160. What makes the LEEN different..... The LEEN works on ALL the AZ6 transmissions... The AZ6 was used in 5* cars: the Silvia S15 GT-R, the Mazda RX8, the Mazda Miata, and the Toyota/Lexus Altezza/IS200. The 5th car using a version of the AZ6... is the GT86/BRZ/FRS(we do not yet know if our adapter fits this version) Also.... you can't deny the LEEN shifter relocation is a trick bit of engineering.. LONG POST In my car I decided to NOT use the shifter relocation kit, I did this because the stock shifter location in many rwd Corollas is a bit too far from the driver. When shifting to 3rd, or 5th gears, it is a LONG reach...and so I extended the shifter hole in my car to accommodate the front most shifter position on the J160... Note the structural cross brace was left intact. And there is just enough room... note 2ft 7" Final fitment A bit of work is needed on the underside as well. This will allow the shift selector rod enough clearance to operate Final fitment Sooo.... length (body opening and shifter cup) appears to be pretty good, the opening should allow the shifter cup to clear the cross member. So now that the car is prepared to accept the new transmission, we need to see what the transmission needs to fit the car......... a quick 2 panel show the current mounts for the 2 transmissions. There are a few obvious issues to overcome.... 1) the J160 mount is about 3 11/16" further back then the mount on the T50 (AE71 T50 mount) and 2) the J160 mount hangs down significantly more (almost 2" lower overall), and 3) The T50 mount is NOT spaced evenly from side to side, while the J160 is evenly spaced. Because of the amount of drop, AND the uneven side to side spacing the original cross member was discarded... to begin the brainstorming once again....... If you stare long enough... the J160 mount begins to "tell" you the mount it "wants" So now that the mount has designed its own shape... we let the car design the rest of the shape... now the problem we have is the J160 mount is too far back to fit any of the area Toyota designed to support transmissions in the AE71.... You can see the T50 cross member fits the 13" span by how clean it is.. also if you look carefully I've drawn a small area inside the trans hole that represents the location of the J160 mount in relation to the floor So the mount needs to sweep, or "wing" forward..... Yes... that is corrugated paper for now, the mount itself is being built in 1/8" plate... Once the crossmember has been sized, gusset supports will be added to reinforce the plate. So... Actually it was built with 12 gauge (.1046"), instead of 1/8" (.125") So the ground test looks ok, The mount appears to be shaped correctly, how will it look once raised into position? Not bad... the overall mount holes are all covered, which mean the overall size is correct. Once the mount holes are drilled... it looks even better. The black marker lines show where the reinforcement/gusset will be fitted. It will also get transverse gussets as well Again, using corrugated paper board to assist with design... OR C.A.D. :lol: I'll admit... the welding is not very good... BUT... it is good enough for strength... and this part is under the car not typically seen... and so its good. With the transmission installed... the driveshaft gets shortened 1/2" in the front half... and viola, the drivetrain is back in and connected Once in, I fabricated a small piece of sheet steel to fit the original opening Now that the gear lever is 5" further back, the hand brake is close, uncomfortably close... So I shorten the hand brake handle to compensate And there we have the only 6 speed equipped, 4AG powered AE71 in existence.... More to come..... :D

What you see below is the ONLY bolt-in 6 speed conversion for use in the AE86, AE/TE7x, E6s, E4, anything the T50 was installed in Well... How to begin the story of the development of the ONLY bolt-in 6 speed conversion for the AE86..... It began back in 2006 when I owned an AE86... remember that... I owned an AE86...??? http://www.rollaclub...us/#entry690444 well back then, I was trying to solve 2 problems with modified AE86s... one being the T50 (only 5 speed available in all AE86s) gear ratios sucked... :'( ... and the other that the T50 was fragile :poke: TRD made a few different gear sets (one was expensive, and the other... was left testicle expensive 8| ) and although stronger metal was used in the gear sets, the overall design of the T50 gearbox dated back to the late 1960s/early 70s when the typical Toyota using this gearbox was lucky to have 80hp, while the car using it would be easily under 2200 pounds. By the way...it isn't just horsepower/torque that is the enemy of transmissions and transaxles, the MASS of the vehicle has a lot to do with how long a particular transmission holds up for.... Ok... so back on point.... and in time... While I began my search to find a solution to the T50, a forum member over @ Club4ag, his forum name is/was "170BHP" had related how he had used a 6 speed from a Miata... with a tailhousing from an RX8 (both early 2000 model year versions) and then used an adapter plate. I was intrigued... and so I did some further research.... ... AND of course... with typical forum stability... that posting was lost... but here is a revival of sorts from 2007 - http://forums.club4a...d?id=830&page=1 For those who like following along from the original... For those who like Cliff's Note's versions... I had connected with a well known Mazda Rotary guy (Rob Golden - Pineapple Racing) and after investing nearly $8000 ($1500 of which was mine) we had a failed casting... and then a machined billet housing It has taken over 3 years, and as mentioned over $8000... and it ended... :( Rob had invested enough... time... and money... and he saw little profit potential. He wanted out. Well, as luck would have it... someone else was also working on this problem. I'm not sure if my efforts and outreach had helped inspire the design or not... it really isn't important... What is important is it had finally been made :2thumbs: A company based in Ireland, LEEN (www.gearboxconversion.com) had developed the kit for one of its clients - Joe Moore and his supercharged 4AGZE AE86 Since its introduction it has had 3 revisions... and one of our recent clients has mounted it to his Hasselgren built 4AGE... :rocknroll: more to come.... :D

I didn't see it when I first got it... but I have to admit... this car has yet to take a bad photo..... Even weird angle, or lens trickery stuff tends to look good.... More to come..... :D

Wheels: Trakyoto Drag 902 15x 6.5 +22 offset - purchased, and still often seen on Yahoo Japan Tires: (Crappola) General Exclaims UHP - did I say crappy tires?? Size 195/50/15 Best, affordable tire in that size right now is the BF Goodrich Comp2

I never understood the slammed look... but I never built a car for its form, I've always built them for the function..... Oh the story here.... :lmao: My own design yes... built (by me)... not so much. I've tried welding... and lets just say my welding isn't something that should be used on the suspension of a car... 8| Soooo I had a friend make them for me.... another friend... the problem with that is I'm at the "mercy" of my friend... and he placed a little demand on me and my car... Go drag racing.......... :wtf: Yep.... go drag racing..... Now... a little bit of back ground... the last drag race I participated in at a track prior to this one... was back in 1979... when I owned a 1968 Pontiac GTO Ram Air III... so it had been 30 years since I was at a track and officially drag raced :nervous: Here she is wearing her drag strip grease paint And her 3 runs..... it took me a bit to get the knack... kinda Note the 60 foot times... ALL suck... but note the 2nd and 3rd run are both through the traps @ 88.7 mph... Not to bad... now calculate in the piss poor starts... and the original 3.58 final drive... along with a poorly geared 5 speed.... a "slow" 88.7 mph trap by me... means a more qualified driver should be able to get my little car down the 1/4 mile in about 14.8 to 15 flat. 15 seconds isn't blistering... but it is fast for an N/A 1.6 liter rwd Corolla ;) More to come...... :D

Tanabe front sway bar up (25mm).... stock GTS rear bar (15mm) AJPS ball joints, and MOST of an AE86 TRD bushing kit.... :thumbsup: Custom made springs to my specifications - 5.3 kg/mm front and 3.5kg/mm rear with a 1" drop in the front, and a 1/2" drop in the back - along with HTS112 full stroke dampers Did I mention... the HTS dampers are fully adjustable.... The adjustment scale from the HTS manual.... Oh... can't forget the Cusco AS strut bar... partially seen on page 2 With all these goodies controlling her... although she rides nearly at stock ride height... she is FAR from stock... :evil: More to come..... :D

Anything I can help with (from 6,000 miles away)?? I've got quite a bit of 4AG experience ;)

This build is still ongoing... 5 years after it began When I originally got this car it had cut springs, worn out bushings, dead shocks.... :down: The Ae71 chassis is VERY similar... and yet not quite the same as the AE86... I've already touched on this before... here are two additional examples... A bit o' back story... The E7 chassis cars are equipped with inadequate (my opinion) brakes. It uses solid rotors up front, and drum brakes in the rear. Fine for an 80 hp commuter, but comical for anything that will see repeated high G loads/stops (from track days... or even backwoods cruising/road carving) 1) The idea - The AE86 GT-S has more modern brakes - vented rotors up front, with a solid rotor our back... 4 wheel disc brakes. Swap them into the E7 and add a substantial performance upgrade... as well as open up suspension options :rock: 2) Well one of the more subtle differences is the AE86 has more King Pin angle then the AE71 does. King Pin angle? Suffice it to say the angle the wheel is in, in relation to the shock absorber example below... from a different Toyota... but note how the angle of the suspension on the left is greater then the one on the right The AE86 equipment has more angle than the AE71 parts. More angle means when everything gets bolted together, the struts will have positive camber... Positive camber is not a good thing when it comes to handling... We aren't looking for "MEAN" camber, or anything extreme... after all this is a serious driving car... not a car show queen.... We DO want about 1/2 negative to about 1 1/2 negative, depending on circumstances, and just bolting on AE86 struts into an E7 will give you positive camber. :wtf: So the suspension went through a few designs(redesigns) before I found what I desired. Many suggested using adjustable strut tops and be done with it. I'm not a fan of them, they tend to transmit a great deal of vibration and noise... :down: Another solution was to either find, or make, longer lower control arms. I decided to try this approach first. Above are stock lower control arms extended about 10mm each. Why 10mm? The difference is actual 6mm per side to correct the positive camber.... adding 4mm per side allows me to get to about 1/2 negative. The problem... once bolted them in... I had 3/4 negative on the right side, and 1/2 negative on the left. :(( What was needed was an adjustable lower control arm... something where you could get some adjustment. The problem here was all the available options were all hard mounts. I wanted a bushed mount... so I cobbled together a few different things and had my own design built... :rocknroll: Now that the chassis dynamics of the 2 cars have been blended, I will have 4 wheel disc brakes in a 2200# car. I can also fully utilize the suspension aftermarket available for the AE86.... :party: More to come..... :D

Wow.... I thought my rear seat mod would raise a "row"...... :osama: 4th gear pull... turn it up and enjoy the dyno print out from that run.... 140whp 108#/ft of torque @ the rear wheels - translated to flywheel: 164hp 128#/ft' date=' Stock 4AGE 115hp, 100#/ft 140 whp isn't bad from 98 cubic inches BUT there is a problem... not a BIG one... but a problem is still a problem. The engine has a vacuum leak. Somewhere in the system is a vacuum leak. The car comes home from that tuning experience, and I'm disappointed. Not with 140whp, but from less than an ideal circumstances.... the circumstance itself - the vac leak I have a pow wow with a few friends... (most of them you have met already...) Jeff - shy guy, and Jesse. We scour all over the engine looking for a leak. 2 hours of looking and nothing >| It can't be driven, it stalls, and so I employ another tuner :nervous: :nervous: I have the car trailered to him... About a week later... I get a call that there still is a vacuum leak... but it idles... kinda, and it drives kinda... Jesse drives me up to the tuner... and he follows me home (about 3 hours). Surreptitious drives fair... only parts of the suspension have been upgraded, so some of it is 30 years old, while other parts are much newer. Along with the fact that although the engine is running and driving, it is still FAR off the mark. Far off the mark or not... she NEEDS to go through emissions testing.... and she does! :wootjump: The second tuner manages 145whp, 112#/ft @ the wheels (or 170+hp and 135#/ft at the flywheel... remember stock 4AGE is 112hp and 100#/ft) This is Blacktop territory... for those who don't know... Toyota produced a 20V 4AGE (5 valves per cylinder), commonly called the Blacktop. A good (properly running) Blacktop typically would make similar power to this. It is great that I managed to reach my goals for the engine... BUT the vacuum leak is still there :down: Welcome to story lines converging...... I could go in to the alternative story line here, write a few chapters on my desire for a 6 speed... it goes back to 2006.... :wtf: , and then come back... but for now I'll just touch upon it... Another friend, his name is Andrew aka "assassin10000", he is driving up from California to deliver a J160 6 speed I bought from him. Once he arrives, he delivers the 6 speed, and I show him my problem. We aren't looking at it for more than 15 min... I've recounted all the steps that all the different tuners, and friends have looked at.... and he removes the throttlebody to air filter hose, looks inside the T/B, and puts his finger over one of the drilled orifices in the T/B and all of a sudden... she gets smoother, and much more stable! What Andrew found was the vacuum leak. The original efi system used an air flow meter. Using an AFM requires there to be air drawing on the afm, even @ idle. Toyota did this by adding a bypass hole around the T/B. The NEW efi system uses manifold vacuum, a bypass around the throttle body is a vacuum leak :rant: I removed the T/B, made a new gasket for it without the bypass hole. Once reassembled, her character got a lot better.... BUT......... her ignition map was built on vague-ness because of the vacuum leak. Now that the leak was gone, she did drive better... but she now needed a better ignition pattern to follow (aka ignition map). I had paid 2 tuners... so I was pretty much broke at this point, but encouraged because I could now drive the car. I leaned on my friend Marshall @ Jackson Autosport(another friend, this one an aftermarket managment GURU), and he sent me an ignition MAP to plug in and try to use... It was better... still a few hiccups, but I could drive and enjoy her So... the car drives better, the map I've been given is adequate... Welcome another "new" friend... he is Brian. Brian worked in the tech field(Yahoo in the mid 90s), had a 4AGE powered rally car tuned with MegaSquirt, and he was willing to help me drive tune Surreptitious. He showed me a few things, and gradually the ignition map improved. We did a lot of work in throttle transition areas, especially lower rpm areas trying to minimize cell conflicts (those nasty little cough/sputters at lower rpm) That is the ignition side of this... now for a little on the fuel side... The FJO system is self learning when it comes to fuel maps... you set the basic parameters, and then get the initial map set close... based on the settings and the injectors. Unless the two engines are literally identical, different engine will have slightly unique fuel map based on the engines need. The FJO system looks at the wideband oxygen sensor, looks at its basic parameters, and adjusts fuel based on the VE and need of the engine. More to come...... :D

not a corolla.... but a Corona V8... using the Century baby hemi 4V engine

more custom woodwork to come.... not as pretty, but arguably more useful..... ;) Continuing with the interior... I was not a fan of the deluxe interior (two tone). So I went on a hunt for a replacement interior.... 3/4 of it(one door panel and 2 rear panels) were found within 3 months........ short When you go to the junkyard to get parts.... DON'T destroy other parts :jason: .... especially easily serviceable parts like door panels!!! Note how VERY nice all three pieces are above.... the driverside door panel (the missing part from the above view)was found under the car TORN UP... FOR NO GOOD REASON : we now return to the thread already in progress The last part of the interior, a solid blue kouki E7 driverside (left side) took me 3 YEARS to find!!! and that is with the internet :wtf: So the interior ideas are almost complete... wooden dash, custom stitched dash cover, vintage Nardi wheel on a vintage pot metal wheel adapter, Cop Car Recaros..... .... but what to do behind the 2 front seats??? The Corolla originally had a rear folding seat. Do I retain it, or remove it? If I retain it it allows me to transport 4 people... kinda (not much rear leg room with the Recaros) If I retain it it folds down... but because it is a seat first, it doesn't lay flat. If I retain it I'd like to find matching cloth to recover the rear seats to match the Recaros - I never could find matching material... Do I WANT to: carry 4, have a folding seat, with mismatched interior patterns... OR with all the other custom touches... the missing rear seat will just make this a 2 seater... what it should have been all along... :rock: I'll have to build something... because without the seat.... the space is useless Above, besides showing the space and how it needs to be better used, are the seeds of my first idea... originally I was intending to mount a hard panel over the wheels(cardboard layout) and then add hinged panels front and rear and lay out the entire area in a wood (Teak?) deck - kinda like an old pick up truck... or even a deck on an older wooden boat I soon came to realize that would be like putting lipstick on a pig... :no2: gaudy at best... sickening at worst :yak: But... what then to better utilize the space....... take what was a good from the idea and remove the gaudy... The wood deck is gaudy... but better utilizing the space isn't..... At first a design is done in my head.... That design is then moved on to C.A.D. (cardboard aided design) Note the design now lays up to the section of the floor over the axle, and not above the section like in the original idea. The design is then transferred to 5/8" plywood. The front panel is cut and fitted into the car using clip nuts fitted to the rear interior crossmember. Next came the top.... the top will fasten to the edge of the front, but how to mount the rear edge of the top???? A shaped 2x4 of course :thumbsup: Below is the rear mounting propped up, the lines/hash marks show areas needing material removal prior to mounting. part of the shaping required :bounce: The hardware required.... So now it makes the space far more utilizable... but more could be done.... The Corolla has only a limited amount of hidden storage space, and by using the solid door panels, I removed some of it.... now I thought I'd add some. I added a hatch installed a continuous (aka piano) hinge enough concealed room now for just about anything I'd conceal or want too... in a car. Once the rear panels are refitted, a custom cut piece of carpeting will be fitted. I have this piece of carpetting, installation is waiting for a few other details So with the re-design I can now carry 6 tires, tools, jackstands, a floor jack, etc... etc... as well as a hidden place for the tuning laptop, valuables, and just about anything else that needs hidden storage edit: OH... not that it is a huge deal... but the back seat weight was about 32#, the plywood platform about 12#s. A savings of about 20#s....... :thumbsup: That 20# will be useful in the future...... :hmm: More to come....... :D