irokin

Have had a couple of close encounters with the ground. It's usually not a big deal because your forward speed is more often close to zero. Scratch on the knee, bruised pride. I have seen one bad story about a guy using crank brothers egg beaters. These are designed a bit different to most clipless pedals (and the general consensus seems to be that they're pretty horrible anyway): Basically in the process of crashing something got jammed in the opposing side of this guys pedal. That meant it was impossible for it to release and the end result of the crash was that it essentially snapped his leg. When you come off at speed usually the force of the crash will release you from the pedals unless you've got the tension waaay up. But the benefits are huge. I don't think I could go back to riding with platforms now. I rode my brothers bike briefly with sandshoes (he uses BMX style platforms) and I hated it.

Got about 800km out of my Conti Race King on the rear. Any substantial distance on the road really chews them up. Changed over to a Schwalbe Racing Ralph today and dropped down to a 2.10, see how that goes. It's about 140g lighter but that's more outweighed because I switched to a dual wall rim (kept snapping spoke nipples on the single wall). I don't think these are going to last much better so I might try something like the Marathon Extreme next.

I really love this model of Corolla, easily my favorite of all the FWDs. I will own one sooner or later.

From the NCOP ADR 42 doesn't seem to say anything about MA group vehicles. I am not a lawyer, this is general information only. Seek professional advice before carrying out any modifications. Etc etc etc.

No no, please. I don't want to dictate what you say and how you say it. If it makes sense then it makes sense. If it doesn't then that's fine.

Yep same. We even put one in the fridge as a joke thinking it wouldn't last long. It's been chilling in there, blinking on and off, for about 3 years now.

Yea I'd be getting your gear checked out. I can't remember the last time I replaced a fluro. OK this has been bugging me for a while. Isn't the term "gutted"? As in that feeling in the gut you get when you're really disappointed about something.

Reeds new avatar. I keep thinking he's someone else.

:y:

Go be a douche somewhere else. Yea, I'm in a bad mood.

Eat a dick

Mine gets hot enough to reset the metal. Every time I've tried them they've been absolutely useless. I'm sure I've still got a few flattened spring washers around here somewhere.

It wont survive. High temp stuff is only good to ~230°C

For sure! FWIW SR20 exhaust manifold studs are M10x1.25 too (~$5ea genuine). Get some top lock nuts (distorted thread) and you'll be sorted. Might need some of these too (cast iron washers): http://www.frsport.com/Genuine-OEM-Nissan-Head-to-Manifold-Yoke-Spacer-KA24DE-SR20DET_p_8078.html

K5LA or bust!

So much swag!

Freaking surreal watching your old work banger belting around a track like that...

Such a cheap way to go racing!

Me: Hrm, looks like its clearing up. I'm gonna go for a ride! 15km later... Mother nature: You look hot, here let me cool you down. then 30 odd km of misery and slippery roads.

I love this:

Intake side.

Oh yea! Replaced the thermostat bypass with braided lines because the hardlines have been corroding and leaking. Turbo coolant lines are now the S14/15 style setup so no more retarded around-the-back lines. Gets some hardcore thermosyphon through the turbo when you shut the engine off. Recirc lines. Not pretty but it's all covered by the manifold. They look excessively long and drooping but that's just because of the angle of the fittings. They don't droop at all and the length is necessary for the lines to comfortably bend in to the right positions. Bottom lines weren't done by me and they only look like shit because they've been reused from a previous iteration of the oil system. The rubber stopper is unfortunate but when I have the engine out next I'll have that line welded up (difficult to get out when the engines in). Updated my fuel delivery too as the rubber lines had started to perish. Now have braided off the hardline into an Aeroquip fuel filter into a tee with a fuel pressure gauge into black Nomex braided lines to and from the SARD fuel rail. I'll see if I can wheel the car out and get a photo of the fuel system. Had some spare -16 stainless braid hose that I didn't end up using so replaced the IAV line with that with a spare clamp dress fitting while I had the manifold apart. Probably the last hoses in the engine bay that I could change over to braided is the catch can lines. Everything else that can be changed over, is. Some things I have learnt: Lubrication is king. A bit of oil on the threads make the fittings a shitload easier to put together. I used silicon spray if I was worried about oil contamination. Nomex braid is less than half the weight of stainless braid (but twice the price). It's about 205g/M for stainless and something like 90g/M for the nomex. Nomex braid is easier to cut and assemble. The cutting is more notable than the assembly though. Nomex will make tighter bends but will collapse if bent too far (stainless will just resist the bending). The Proflow compression fittings seem to have metric hose assemblies and the cutter style seem to be imperial. Compression are heaps easier to assemble but probably don't have quite the same pressure abilities as cutter style. I'd be comfortable using compression up to about 150-200psi. Black anodised (might be powder coated?) fittings seem to have a tougher finish that the typical blue/red anodising.

I just about to posted a photo of the original flat capping, monster drinking hipster 5 minutes ago too. I wonder if flat cappers understand the origins of the look...