seabiscuit

The FTO? Pretty sure there'd be a turbo option for them... Read first post again Trev!

Propose a date oh Mighty Leader? :( Might be a bit cold to be driving up in the Namadgi. But if everyone is keen on going bush, camping would be a SICK idea. I know a very very very nice spot. Once again, depends on whether everyone is tough enough :wink:

Bonnet? Touch typing? :wink: Believe I have seen this one in Weston Creek area. Saw a really nice KE30 in Queanbeyan today.

Here's a start. - KE1x, KE2x, KE3x manual gearboxes are the same. Only difference is shifter angle/lengths, which can be swapped with correct one. - A KE70 manual gearbox WILL bolt into all K series Corolla's, but will require changing the extension housing to an earlier model item as the shifter positions are different. - K, 3K, 4K, 5K engines, which come in all KE Corolla's (depending on the generation of each car), apart from the 5K, which is from KM36 LiteAce vans, forklifts, and some Japanese KE7x Corolla's, all bolt into each others engine bay. NOTE: KE70's have different engine mounts. Some ancillaries are interchangeable between engines such as carburettors and distributors... SOME. - KE30 axles (Borg Warner) will fit in a KE20 with a small amount of shortening to convert to 4x114.3 stud pattern. All KE30 and KE55 (including KE35 and KE55 coupes) items are interchangeable between each other AS FAR AS I KNOW. Obviously certain coupe items cannot be used on a sedan and vice versa. AE86 Sprinter struts bolt into a KE70. *sigh* Falcon springs... I won't say any more. TE72 (T-18) struts, diff and a few other things which I am unsure of bolt into KE70. Can't think of any more right now, but that's a fair lump of it I assume.

A reconditioned item will perform 99% the same as a new one. It's the tuning that matters, which you're going to HAVE to do if you put a new one on. New ones DON'T have magic beans in them... just dust.

Sounds like the engine has had a hard time! Car looks quite clean though. Although you haven't shown us some decent close-ups :wink: Great progress Evan. Keep it up :(

I've looked around for a little while on the net for these flares, but can only come up with crap! Has anyone stumbled across any reproduction items (even if they are fibreglass)? The flares in question are these:

All that can be done is more pictures. :yes: :bash:

WRONG 5K has a larger bore and the crank IS a 4K crank (it is stamped on it)

Tell me about the weather! It's horrible. :yes: Go-Karts + BBQ anyone? Should I say Sam? :bash:

It's quite easy to tell an older car for the quality of purchasing it, unless the seller is tricky! If it rattles lots and looks "tacky" on the inside, chances are it hasn't been well kept on the outside either (however there is the odd 1 or 2 folk that maintain their car meticulously, but fail to CLEAN it!) Drive it, you'll know a tight, clean car when you drive it. It's just a feeling :yes: Places to look for a decent KE70: Low-end of town car dealers, suburbs in Grandma and Grandpa's front yard, newspaper ads, online car sales websites etc. Good luck. All of the questions you've asked have been answered. Keep a keen eye out as bargains won't be very easy to come by with RWD Corolla's for much longer. Next step, I suggest get off the "Google Images Search KE70" dream car and buy a flaming KE70 :bash:

Looking great fellow Vincent :yes: Now that most of the cosmetics are done (externally), what's the next step that you're taking? 5k? :bash: Interior?

My tyres either spin or the hill is too steep. Selecting a low gear won't achieve too much in a RWD. Why not get a 4WD? As you say it is only a paddock basher, so you won't be spending a LOT of time making it a "lovely Corolla"... Unless you want to :bash:

KE55 Sedan at Queanbeyan Auto Dismantlers. Get in quick since it hasn't been salvaged yet! Shotgun the grille if they're reasonable enough. :(

Oh my lord! :( I was literally showing my friend what a fine example of a KE36 this was earlier today. Crying shame fellow Rolla lover. It can be restored if someone were willing.

Haven't we all? :thumbsup: It looks decent. Wonder if it's got anything in it.

Hi Paul! In Canberra, I had my engine number changed and had to go through the legal process. When I took it to the inspection station, I was knocked back for not having my PCV valve hooked up, which is the small one-way valve at the far end of the rocker cover, which is supposed to be on any vacuum hose run to the carburettor. It takes a minute to fix, if you have a vacuum hose. Also the charcoal canister wasn't previously hooked up, but the hoses were there so just plugged it in then and there. Once you've gotten your car past the rego stage, you don't really need to worry about it. But a word of advice, the pollution gear which is GOOD to leave hooked up is the PCV valve and the charcoal canister as they are both beneficial to your engine and car.

Come on! Drink some concrete. :) Do the mods!!!! We're not Hyundai drivers. I'd say camshaft would be the only mod suitable for a workshop to do instead of you as I myself don't like "playing" with the vital organs of the engine - only the limbs that can magically be replaced without costing well... a limb. As for the order... Cam is the biggest power improvement, but will suffer without the other mods being done. Whichever costs the most would be the best option to go for first. Carby: depending on what you get, can cost very little or very expensive. If it's your daily, I'd recommend getting it tuned right after you put it on (which is the easy part). Have you thought about going straight for the carb you want, rather than a nikki? Might as well not waste the money/time on putting on something that will only be removed in the future. 32/32 Weber is good. 28/36 DCD is VERY good, but they are really hard to source and probably won't be cheap. 32/36 is cheapest and easiest, but not the best option as they are a tad too big. Down-jet them and they are still quite good, though. Cam: (copied from FAQ) Alot of people have favorite cams for the 4K, debate can get pretty intense, so I'll list all the common ones. The 20-60 described above is still fairly good, makes more torque than any other (useful) cam profile I can find, and still peaks at 6500rpm. My favorite is my CE701 (25-65 270 degrees adv dur, 0.398" lift) by Camshaft Engineering in Coorparoo, I think this gives a nice balance of LOTS of torque and good strong top end, with peak power at 7500rpm. My KE25 with this cam does over 200km/h and can drive up most hills in 5th. Tighe Cams do this profile too, the Tighe 113 has 0.400" lift, the Tighe 104 has 0.423" lift. Exhaust: Does it need explaining? :P Although I suggest 1 3/4". I have a 2" in my car and it's a bit too loud (for my liking). Headwork is something that you should consider also. Raising the compression is a great way to make the extra fuel from your other modifications really go bang. If you upgrade the cam, raising the compression is a really good idea. Should be enough how-to there. The only way to do it is to get your head under the bonnet and have a stab. Internet forums are for only when you get stuck with a problem and showing off your pride and joy to folk other than in your street.

Make sure you get the same BRAND of diff as yours. Some cars have a Jap diff, but most will have the Borg Warner. The problem is that the tailshaft uni is different. Easiest way to tell "diff"erence :P is that the Borgy will have a service plate facing the back of the car. If you're still not sure, look UNDER the diff centre and it will either say Borg Warner or not! :laff: Cheering that you've got air-con mate. Get some rims :)

Did this have jelly beans on it? There's a loud, white, jelly beaned KE30 near my house that this young fella drives.

Welcome! :P

If you do the searching. One for that price would probably need a rebuild, unless you can find one from a person who doesn't know what it's worth to the buyer, OR a very generous seller :P There's a TRD K-engine guide HERE (it's a 25 megabyte page). Plenty of suggestions of what you can do out of that lot. Pick and choose. What sort of power are you looking for? Simple answer: if modding a 3K to the shit isn't going to cut your requirements, the upgrade to a 5k (or 7k if you like climbing hills) will be well worth it. People are selling modded 5K's for cheap enough on here every now and again.

There you go! :P Offer him some incentive to do the work for you. Perhaps share your missus for a night. :)

5K?

A whole weekend... Wow. That panel beater is awesome :D