oh what a nissan feeling!

Awesome write up, i learnt a whole lot, and then some ;) May as well add a bit about the ackerman principle too :(

I QLD it is overall diameter that is measured, 17s with 205/40 are completely legal, 18s are also legal with 215/30. If the wheels fit properly, 17s or 18s, lowering your car is not a problem. Perhaps if you bought the correct offset, destroying your wheel arches would be be unnecessary, but then i guess that wouldnt be fully jap old school dorift spec.

I recon seam welding is the go, along the sills inside the car. Also, welding along where the front rails are spot welded to the firewall makes a big difference. I like your brace ideas, another one i have seen is in the boot between the shock bolts, up to the parcel shelf, and back to the floor where the mono construction rails are underneath.

Well, while everyone is being opinionated, heres mine. I recon the "my wheels don't fit so i bashed the crap out my gaurd" look is pathetic. I also recon the "my wheels don't fit so i got some 155's stretched on them" look is just as gay. There is nothing retro about either of these looks, its just a Jap want-to-be, or was that wannabe. A nice set of 15s can look awesome on any rola, provided they actually fit (positive offset not negitive). 13s and 14s so we can go "super low" is stupid, you can't drive it dragging on the ground, why don't you take the wheels off, then it would be low :( I recon the whitewall look is cool, as i rarely see it in real life. A set of 17s or 18s can also look awesome, and can be completely legal. Spacers suck, especially if you have power, but i know of at least 20 styles of big rims that are perfect fit for an old rola. So theres my opinion to add to the list, but at the end of the day, whatever floats your boat.

I will get some pics of my plenum, problem is when i picked my car up from the fabricator the plenum was tack welded, and he was only half way through finish welding it. That was months ago, so i will call him and pick it, then rest it on and take some photos :lolcry:

After reading your thread i would be inclined to change the plenum rather than the master, maybe taper it at the back? Also i'm pretty sure you cut the fuel rail mounts off your manifold, so don't forget to weld some of them on. ;) I have a custom plenum on mine, it has gtir quad throttles and i still got it to clear a much larger master cyl than that, i do need remote reservoir though. Love your work, keep us updated! :lolcry:

Love your work, awesome setup, would be a handful with normal tyres on the rear :)

Nice find man :dance: Looks to be in pretty good condition too, just needs a bit of tlc in some spots. :)

Couldn't agree more. Top job. :lolcry:

Paint looks sweet man, you get things happening fast. Looking forward to hear about how you go at the track :P

I can second that the rwd 626 rims are a perfect fit, with just enough clearance from the front struts.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...;hl=ta22+master

Recently my brother has been looking for a pump for his water to air type intercooler, he was keen for the davis craig pump, but when he consulted a few businesses who specialize in this stuff, they would not even sell him one due to their experience with them. Bosch make the item he was recomended, not sure about the controller but.

Hey man, probably aviod that brand, they had a good reputation, but are now known to be crap. Also, my tank in my ke30 cost $400 to get made, it drops in through the boot, with a large lip to bolt to. it is all mods approved.

The swaybars will help a heap, but if you really want it to handle, this is the next problem. Try koni, kyb agx, ect ect. Monroes are only worth what you pay (if youre lucky) A rock hard front is not how you set a car up for drift by the way.

Man I'm glad its later in the year now :dance: , if it was this weekend i would have had no cars there, On october 5, i could probably have two rollas there :lmao:

Yep, thats the big problem. I have a few sets here i have thought about. It seems the only way to do it and still get good hight out of your bonnet, is to mount a single one, in a parallel to the firewall, about halfway down the firewall. I have one that is a good length to fit on one side in front of the strut, but it will not lift the bonnet high enough

Yeh, ive got that badge on mine, i think they are prone to coming unglued, cos they are a bit rare.

looks to be an extremely tidy find! Good luck with the drive.

Nice buy with the wolf! Yeh, i tried many things, but i had the injectors cleaned, flow tested and inspected by an injector specialist. They are 200cc, high impedence, and in really good condition apparently. Its all good, just waiting on the haltech to arrive

i work out :bash: Wolf v4 were 1400 new, but i believe they were recently discontinued , and replaced by version 5, so it would be second hand if i got one, they are alot cheaper that way! I had it running nice with a 5 minute tune, but it started running crap before i got the tailshaft in, so i havn't even gone for a spin yet. :yes: I am still chasing an sc14 at a resonable price, they just seem to go for so much lately. Real keen to find out what the k motor + sc14 fuss is all about.

It cost me $100 to get one made for my ke25, thats with me fitting it, all you need is the metal bars that go through it, and the old hood lining.

Update... well i got the tailshaft in, and the gearbox linkages are done, so shes all ready to drive..... well it was..... It ran really well for a few days and then refused to start again :bash: Soooo, i got it to start again, but only by running the computer super rich, or as rich as it would go.. This is a problem considering the injectors are 200cc on this little piss weak motor. I spent a week trying everything i could think of to get it to run correctly, and it persists in annoying me, so after eliminating every aspect i could think of, the crappy old d4s has got the flick. I think it was sabotage........ The replacement is a haltech f7b, and is yet to arrive.... I really should have just bought another wolf :yes: Anyway, i think i have learn't my lesson. I have concluded that for all of the custom work, and stuffing around that i have done to fit this trimatic, and tight arse computer, I really could have put an sr20de in it, and had it running for the same time, and cost. ;) It is likely that this motor package will be up for sale in the near future, and a heavily worked sr20de and auto, will take its place.

The bit near the bumper is no worries, it looks pushed in over the wheel arch?? If it is, thats a bit of a worry.

Man just sent pm about paint. With your colour, i would put the strips back on front of the bonnet and gaurds, and paint the grill, and those strips silver, i think that would be all you need to do. Wrong shape i know, but this is what i mean: Also, ive been watching alot of 'chip foose overhaulin' , he loves 2 tones and this is one i stole of that show. Its green and white with a silver stripe in the middle: