oh what a nissan feeling!

Well, i think it would take a few hours to fix for someone with some skills. Unless you fluke a granny model, there is not much chance of finding one in better condition, it may look all sweet, but when you strip the paint down it will likely be exactly the same, if not worse. Get your tipsnips, cut the rust out in nice square neat shapes, find an old panel for donar metal, and weld it in. :P

Too much to fix. They just couldnt be bothered, too lazy and probably can't weld. Typical useless panel beaters these days. :jamie: Take it somewhere else, or buy a cheap mig and teach yourself to weld, preferably the latter. Please no fibreglass. Probably a bit hasty in my panel beater abuse, but the too hard basket is always real big when it comes to old cars. got any pics of the rust?

Yep, love your work Jon, this all went very well! I nearly fell over when i saw the amount of cars roll up at landsbrough :) I forgot my camera dammit, luckily everyone has got it covered :)

The centre console turned out sweet! nice work :)

If there is too much traffic at aus zoo, i will meet at landsborough township, before we head up the hill. :lolcry:

I think everyone missed the point, a 13b non turbo vs a sr20det? Without the turbo either are not going to be very fast, the sr20 can be legal with a turbo, the 13b can't. I don't think anyone is stupid enough to argue a 13b na, vs an sr20 turbo.

Your'e on! Who cares how it looks when its got the goods. Mine is as seen in my signature, i have to build my motor from scratch too, on the other hand it has been sr20 powered for about 4 years, so all supporting mods like brakes/ diff/ compute/are complete. Exhaust housing sizes are only relevent to the turbo they are attached to, eg. a .86 on a gt28 is the exact same size as a .63 on a gt30.

Chermside, nice and close, good to see you're still working on it. Mine should be hitting the road again within the next 6 months, build race? That might get you inspired!

I would just cut down the ke30 strut tube, and reweld it to ke20 height. |blink|

Man this is very cool. Just look at it, isnt that enough motivation? |blink| Where are you from?

For the front i would only go a 6" rim, a 7" does not fit under the front of a lowered one. i would go +35 for the front in a 6" to give plenty of steering ability, this would sit a fair bit in, but will clear the guard and strut. If you really want 7" on the front +25 is the go, but will sit in line with the guard - no lowering possible. The rear in a 7" would be about +45, I would shorten the diff before buying simmons, or else you will have no dish!

Havn't seen half of those cars before, there is some sweet ones out there! here's my attempt.....

not a good idea, the appox widths are 1370mm vs 1295mm, and to make it worse, the rear of ke25s are already more of a fwd offset.

To drop an sr20 in will probably cost about $5000, if you can do everything yourself. Add another $4000 for brakes, suspension, diff, If you can do a lot of it yourself. Add another $10000 for labour if you can't do it yourself.

Would be fine on the 3t, i had one on my 5k for about 2 weeks before the d4s crapped itself, ran really well for the two weeks, easy to tune. Not suitable for piggy back.

Yes indeed, the car you suggest is deserving of much page space!

I shall be there me thinks.... at least for a bbq, maybe meet for the more northern bit of the cruise too. will have new wheels for the ke25 by then :) probably should change the date in the title to 16th too, it had me thinking i couldn't make it. :D

Turbocharged motors respond the same if not better, to the same mods as a non turbo. Large cams, oversized valves, huge ports, all of these thing can get you more than 1/3 more power with the same turbo on the same boost. There are two changes that you can make to a camshaft, overlap and lift. Lift generally requires bigger and better valve springs, the larger you go, the heavier the springs. Turbo cams mostly consist of lift. Duration is how long the valve is open for, overlap occurs when the exhaust valve is still closing when the inlet valve has already begun to open. This is not always a bad thing on a turbo engine. This is where it comes back to the size of your rear turbo housing, and pressure ratios. The exhaust gas will exit the easiest way, if you have a large rear housing on your turbo, turbo manifold pressure will not exceed inlet boost pressure, in this case, a large overlap cam is not a problem, because exhaust gas will continue to exit the easiest way- the exhaust. If you are running a small rear housing on your turbo, the exhaust manifold pressure will exceed inlet boost pressure, in that case a large overlap cam will allow a small amount of exhaust gas to be pushed back into the inlet. The result is detonation. A large cam will always cause a rough idle, i wouldnt be too hasty to remove that cam unless it is definately the problem. The average '30/70' cam is usually ideal for turbo, especially in older motors.

It is definately worth putting a bumpy cam in, can release large amount of power. Overlap is not a big problem with superchargers, can be a problem with turbo depending on rear housing size. definately worth it!

Car:1976 ke30, Modified/Unmodified: Rim Size: 17x7, Rim Offset:+25. Stud/Bolt Pattern:4x 114 Tyre Size/Profile: 205/40/17 Fitment Note: just clear struts, perfect fit on front and rear, sit inside the guards on both, very low. Car:1973 ke25 Modified/Unmodified: has ke30 rear axels and struts. Rim Size: 17x7 Rim Offset:+25 Stud/Bolt Pattern: 4x 114 Tyre Size/Profile: 205/40/17 Fitment Note: FRONT just clear front struts, with mild mods to lower spring plate (hammer). Needed adjustable strut tops to pull wheel back inside the front guards and correct camber back to 0. REAR rear sat level with the rear gaurd, which is useless unless you like a 4wd look. :wink: rear needs a fwd offset, +45 for example to sit inside the guard so the car can be lowered. wheels are no longer on car, to get large 7" wheels to fit correctly on a ke2X, two different offsets are needed. :lolcry: Looks Rating - delete this bit, it is subject to opinion , not fact.........

1. for the vacuum , you will need pipes running from the engine side of each throttle body, this needs to go to a small vacuum chamber that you will have to fabricate. 2. 30mm, thats just a guess, to get an accurate size, ring a reputable webber tuner, and after giving details of your motor, ask him what size chokes he would use. 3. buy one? 4. the car will already have an existing return line to the tank from the charcoal canister, use that. If you are going to upgrade your pressure line, the return line must always be equal in size. :lolcry:

No worries man, if my bro was here he would slap me and give me a 1 hour lecture for that.

It would likely fit, 2jzgtte are down to 2500 for a half cut, perhaps a more worthwhile option?

Love your work jonny t , this thing is coming along real good. It has come a fair way pretty quick. To make the clutch setup, it is easier to start with a ta22 pedal box, cut its clutch pedal off, and make that suit the ke pedal box. Keep us informed Nissan tailshafts are disposable from memory, so the stock yoke is a bad thing.

It seems to use less on the highway, i think it was sitting at 110 with the secoundrys open a bit before, so now its avoiding that. It probably would use more around town, a bit harder to get the thing moving.