oh what a nissan feeling!

Hey mate, just in case youre unaware, you need a very high powered welder to weld alloy nicely, eg 3 phase. It also helps very much to have a wire feed in your hand piece, as the alloy wire prefers to be pulled rather than pushed. Cheers

^^^ exactly, no two cars are ever the same, if it fits one ke30, it is not certain to fit the next one. You should try measuring up some of the old holdens, its quite funny what you find!

What he styler said. I got a quote for the outer rims, they are available in 4" 7" 8" the prices were between $52 and $58 depending on which width. This is 15" of course. As for centres, there are plenty of suitable fwd wheels that can donate, just cut off the welds, and knock them out. i get mine for $5 each at the local tyre guy.

Both of my brothers cars are running water to air systems. They are much more expensive once you factor in electric water pump custom radiator intercooler itself water pipes, hoses ect. One of my brothers setups had no change from $1500, the other cost closer to $1000. They are often physically very large in an engine bay, a lot of 4 cyl cars probably don't have the room.

Sounds awesome, its all going again. :) good to see you did the smart thing and got a tune straight away. My sr20de+t made 171 kw at 10psi, but had a high flow on it and a fair bit more timing, Definately not stressed at this level, i revved it to 8, and drove it like it was stolen, with no drama for years... until my fuel pump died :P

Cool! Havn't seen this thing before, looks sweet as, and it would seem its in bris, which is even better! i look forward to seeing it around.

Love your work man, twin rollas in overrated bamboo condition :P ....with a whole lot of power :)

Yep, you're onto it brad, I'm chasing a ca20 bluebird series 3 box, they have a forward shifter position that is good for a corolla. They do require a bellhousing swap as the bellhousing is a bit different, but i have a blown sr20 box here ready to donate. I just havnt found one yet........

^^^yep, it seems a new tunnel is what may be required to fit the auto. The old man told me the auto looks like it wouldnt fit, but i thought she'll be right. Anyway, I'm not going to cut the tunnel out, I have drawn the line there, this car is not intended to go to that level, it is merely receiving a minor power/reliability upgrade. So i guess manual is the option remaining. The reason i went auto is to retain the externally factory look, with the toyoglide shifter, pee shooter ect, its only a daily driver, and wont be overly fast, so an auto would have been good for cruising. Oh well......

I got my doors back from the sandblaster yesterday. I only got him to only blast the backs of them, and round the frames, for $100, not willing to risk some distorted panels, especially with corolla tin can metal :( I got a quote for soda blasting for $500, and decided that was a little too pricey. So i got out the paint stripper to bring the fronts back to bare as well. And finished them off with the purple scotch brite pad. The most perfect set of doors i could hope for, never had a spot of rust in them. It has started raining now, so will have to wait till tomoz to put the etch on. :P

I'm back gents, a bit wet over there apparently. R31 diff is precisely 1465mm. My diff measured 1335 due to having ke30 rear brakes. I have cut 180mm out of it, the previous offset on the rear was very much a FWD offset, i have 2005 lancer wheels on the back and they fit perfectly :P So i have made my new diff 1285mm long, this will mean the front and rear is now the same offset. some pics: mounts cut off with the trusty 9 inch measure lots, the short axel goes in the long side, which shortens the diff by 60mm to start with. This means only one axel needs a respline. The other axel gets cut down the rest of the length required which is 120mm. This means the pinion will be 30mm off centre, which is stuff all. chop chop and the final result Getting it welded tomorrow, my uncle has a jig made up for these diffs, so that will be the housing done. The engine fitment has come to a halt though, the auto really is a big prick, and I'm considering going manual to save myself the dramas. The problem with going manual is that i will have to revise my brake master cylinder sooner than i wanted to, as it appears to me that the hydrolic clutch should go where the current master cylinder is atm, and the brakes should go beside that. :( still in two minds so far, will have to think about the whole auto vs manual thing some more..... I have been offered a daily driver astra for free, so i might get a rwc for that, and juggle back to working on the ke30. :D still undecided............

The 2jzgte setup is very small, it has a small magnetic pickup that bolts in to the side of the head on the inlet side, it works off a small lump on the inlet cam, i was quite impressed with how small and simple it is compared to my nissan stuff. Just a thought......

Been way too busy this week, hardly had a chance to look at the car.... Finished welding the gravity fed surge tank up, should work a treat i recon. And after much looking for a cheaper one i eventually picked up an r31 diff from the wreckers. They are a bit hard to find it seems :wink: $220 later....... So I will be cutting it down when i get back, about 200mm shorter from rough calculations, will work it out properly once i start cutting..... Also have been dummy fitting up the motor too, will be making the mounts after my holiday. Anyways off to fiji in about a days time :P

We removed the vents from my ke30 a few years back. Cabin pressure is certainly not a problem, mine has new rubbers all round, but you will never get an old car to seal well enough to create a problem. IMO it looks good, but getting the it straight is NOT easy, after stripping mine back to bare metal recently, i have spent 3 weeks of afternoons on each side!

If you want a motor you can just buy mounts for and put in......buy a 4ag.

Gtir stuff, a whole gtir head with itbs fuel rail ect went on ebay only a few days ago for about $300. Pretty cheap considering they have solid lifters, better springs, itbs, top feed 440cc injectors, ect.... I already have my crap, so i didnt bid. EDIT: Just remembered you have s14 gear, gtir crap wont fit. You would have to go full aftermarket

Yep, it is an absolute prick to weld metal this thin with a mig, most migs don't have enough adjustment on them to start with, you either don't get enough penetration, or blow holes :y: You are doing well under the circumstance. I am lucky my old man has an oxy, so i spot it in for him, and drag him over to finish weld it with the oxy :S Nice to see proper repairs, most people either fibreglass or bog the rust up :S

used in tuning webbers is something called chokes, which in effect reduces the side of the barrel. On a 4k they are probably using 20mm chokes to get the carbys small enough. No you cannot buy chokes for a 350 holley.

^^^^^ what he said, no, no and no. It is difficult to get one of these to run properly on a 3.3 let alone a 1.3!!

Big points for effort, and motivation :jamie: :yes:

Well I have half made a gravity fed surge tank, I rang around and no one is open, so i can't buy fittings to weld into it :yes: Also modified the factory auto shifter to suit the four speed nissan box, looks exactly the same, so no point in taking pics. ....and its still raining so i have run out of things to do inside :jamie: I'm away for the weekend, back to work for a week, and off for 2 weeks in fiji on honeymoon, so progress is about to take a sudden halt. :yes:

That colour scheme will look awesome i recon!, its a shame theres no pics, but its still a good read. Not so sure about this, i think it is possible, but given the price of an aftermarket fuel only computer, and the time and equipment it would take to get the factory one happening properly, it seems a waste of energy? looking forward to your progress!

well i got the tunnel done, was just about to etch the firewall but it has started raining and the ke30 has my carport :yes: might go and have a look at modding the fuel tank :jamie:

In qld ke20 disk brakes would definately suffice for such a minor upgrade. I also had no trouble getting them to change my engine number to at the transport department. no mod plate 5k ke25.

I have had this intermittent problem on my ke25. The problem turned out to be in the master cylinder, there are two rubbers in there, the one that stops the fluid from running onto your foot, and the little one that seals the fluid reserve off, its this little rubber that was the problem in my case. finding a kit was a fair bit of drama too. Hope this helps :yes: