oh what a nissan feeling!

forgot to add, the car is all straightened now, and in etch. Was pretty fussy with the roof, didn't bother as much with the panels as the rest of the car is not perfectly straight. Will undercoat on monday. Have bought the paint too for the topcoat too.

the rest of it done roof and windscreen rear wagon window PS, thought the bit in the middle was ok, but tuned out to be real thin, so i cut the whole piece out. Done some damage too, caught a bit i was grinding up on the flap disk, it got thrown in to my knee. ouch! Should have got it stitched.

cool! It was a long shot, maybe you mentioned it once before, cause it came to mind straight away. So painted shiny and all that? Heaps of work, would look pretty insane though.

Fiber glass roof lining???

I don't mean to be a spoil sport because i like what your doing here, a very easy how to... just for your info though, there is a reason they use washers, no engineer will pass or allow any welding of your caliper bracket.

so the tailshaft would be offset by 64mm. everyone likes their ke70s so low, Tunnel clearance for tailshaft and pumpkin could be a big issue, The smallest measurements in reality can mean alot. My ke30 runs a shortened EB falcon diff, the tailshaft is offset by less than that, and the floor changes required were big. Dummy the diff up in a ke70 unshortened in a non-central type position (64mm to one side) and check it out before doing the chop i think.

your car will run fine for a while if you have a resistor type coil-running no resistor, but will soon burn out on a longer trip. If you have a non resistor type coil, it will run fine, no worries. As for wearing points quicker, probably. A good upgrade for increased spark though.

Sorry, to clarify. no, you definately cannot use two short axels. Both sides of the housing need to be shortened, short axle goes in other side, long axle gets shortened to suit desired vehicle length.

Yeh, done it. in a ke25 the pinion ends up within 10mm off centre using the short axel in the long side. My uncle has made up a jig for shortening these diffs, You bolt the diff to the jig with backing plate bolts, bolt the tube sections via the brake bolts to a sliding type arrangement on both sides, slide in, and weld up. easy. The hard part is the heat involved in most cases warps the housing. So a bit of heating and shrinking to straighten the whole thing out again is the time consuming part, and the part where some serious metalworking experience helps.

Cool, good progress too, should work out like a factory one with the whole rear sections. Thanks for the info, exactly what i needed to know, its good that you got around the whole flex test thing, its really harsh!

Progress? Quick question, whats the engineering requirements for the 2 door, moved pillar idea? Is it the full flex test, or is there an easier way? cheers!

Hmmmm, yep SSDD, its still only got one cam, and mt everest style pistons.

Cool! the rear of that thing is brilliantly shaped. Completely unmodified too, which is awesome, the stripe is very tasteful, breaks it up a bit.

??????????????.....no.

sound great, you have done well with the spending so far too. Mine ran a 14.9 at the drags with a sr20de, that was with a heap of wheel spin too. If you are looking at running the commodore master cyl, pm me about it, there is a small thing you must do, they bolt directly to the ke55 booster though. I used a ta22 clutch cylinder, and bolted it to the factory location stamped on the firewall. This does however require a fair bit of mods to the pedal box, moving the pivot point up a heap. I did a thread on it somewhere on here. I have the pedal box out of the car atm, so if you want to do it this way, i can take pics next time i upload some. Another member on here did a thread using a mazda (i think) clutch cylinder instead, his way looked much easier, but did not use the factory location for the master cylinder. I think, but not sure, the thread starter was Kangaroosa? What diff and brakes are you running?

Thats some detailed restoration going on there jon, nice work!

Interesting. Thanks for the info, you have a good memory. i think i will give it a crack, i can't use a vn engine as i am keen on using the factory charged one. I have tracked down a well priced chip to take care of the bcm, interesting that the vn didnt have one. Perhaps a vn computer with piggyback is another more adjustable option. Will be 6 months before i attack this, but am gathering as much info as possible, so if you think of any other electrical stuff let us know. Cheers for the info!

^^ also interested in this question, not expecting a full how to, but wondering if its a separate engine loom, or does it tie into the body loom a heap? You can buy a full aftermarket conversion loom for $450, in your opinion would you bother, or diy. Also how did you remove the BCM problem? Any tips or info you can give, did you just get the commo wiring diagram, and go from there? Not interested for a rolla, but same applys.

tidy work, love the idea too. awesome!

What colour is are you going with? Is that 3, or does this replace the hatch thing? Should be a nice new daily to cruise around in!

I just use old panels for metal, this is torana bonnet. Its good to have a slightly thicker donar metal (old holden), it makes it a bit easier to weld. mmmm, 1uz Finally talked myself into leaving the aircon by about 4 this arvo, and worked on it till dark. Got one side nearly done.' Weldings not real flash, trying to spot most of it to keep the heat out, don't want to warp the panels! rear door PS front and rear doors P side Rear quarter panel PS. Then i found some i missed in behind the wheel area. Fixed Front guard, put a patch in, but when i was grinding i found more holes. Would love to pull the guard off and have a better look, but in a hurry to get it going, Will fix the rest tomorrow. Hopefully finish all the rust repairs tomorrow!!

Thanks heaps! Should last for a long time now i hope, Hopefully more pics tonight if i can tear myself from the cricket!

man, they all in such tidy condition, very jealous of the shed space, and the hadtop is absolutely nuts! Any more pics of it? I'm not familiar with the shape.

Nice! tidy old machine.