oh what a nissan feeling!

Cool! slide throttles look easier imo, ive never seen them before, what a great idea. For the traditional style, i have had my sr20 ones apart, they use a sealed roller bearing, Instead of press in, they use a perfect machined fit, then you just punch the edge of the alloy to hold them in place. Can i suggest maybe using a set of sr20 quads for the shafts/ flaps and bearings, and customising your own housings? You would probably pay about $150 for a set but it would save some dramas i think. they are 45mm.

Looks Low profile tyres, a 195/50/17 is within 10mm of the standard 13. depends what you call a decent offset, i like my wheels under my car, not outside. Buy the correct offset, there are over 20 available from BSA alone. Low profile tyres provide less straight line traction. The car is a rougher ride with low profile tyres. You didnt have to try and explain why, so........you don't like 17s?

Sell the corolla, buy a worked silvia/skyline, drift it like you stole it. A ke30 has a too short wheel base, and a complete lack of power. Only the die hard enthusiasts try to drift corollas, and maximum respect to those who do, as you need twice the driving skill. I owned a r32 for 3 years, they take the skill out of driving, a really easy car to hold sideways at pace

All you would be doing is creating extra loss into the equation by sticking a extra turbo in between the real thing. What happens when youre little turbo runs out of efficiency?

man, lots of hard work, looks great!

wow, first time i have looked at his one i think, looks good, will subscribe.

I wouldnt use any of the mitsu v6s, they don't have a good rep, a pretty unreliable breakable thing really. nissan vg20 out of early 300zx? Cheap as, rwd, change ALL water hoses and should be sweet.

man this sounds like a seriously quality build, youre making some solid progress too, love your work.

Actually my advice is bad, the problem is i have been involved with my brothers mid 80s 929 to 2jz conversion which makes my sr20 to corolla conversion look basic, plus everything looks easier after youve done it. this is better advice....... cut from JDM55's sr20 conversion thread.

Yep, pretty straight forward conversion as far as conversions go. The biggest problem is probably the sr20 gearbox is too long for a ke30 tunnel. To solve this use an rb20 box with an sr20 bellhousing. Any specific qs you are welcome to pm me also.

what he said, small cams usually have wide lobe seperation anyways (112), as this helps with torque. As you get to larger cams, the differences get more and more with ramp angles, lift, and overlap all becoming more purpose specific.

7" just fitted under the front on my 25, the offset of the wheel nearly touched the strut on the inside, plus i had to use camber tops to pull them in from the guard, 6" would be a heap less hassel. 7" will tuck easily on the rear, the problem is you will need a different offset to the front to get inside the guards. I was using 195 tyres front and rear. If you prefer the stretched look then disregard all this, I'm talking about having rim and tire under the car, and inside the wheel arch.

I don't think there are any good ones in brissy, even the crap nasty places charge $400+ for a bad result.

Go to an engineer, there is a section in the qld mods book that allows the same series of motor to be swapped without mod plate, %cc also applies.

Have done my ke30 front and rear, was pretty easy, rear gets mounted on a horizontal, fronts vertical as shown. Can take pics i think...... not sure if i removed for sandblasting............

Agreed, all of my burnout vids on youtube were done with the same shimmed up cone type lsd, and the thing still worked flawlessly last time the car was going. On the other hand obese type vehicles seem to kill them real quick if driven wrong.

Fair enough, should look great, i had mine mounted front row centre in the engine bay for ages, funny thing is it was a procomp one - nasty rubbish, you live you learn...

yep, it takes a heap of time and effort that is for sure! Diff housing is in, and bolted down for good. Havent got the axels and stuff in yet, sorting out some different studs. Finally buffed the car, it has been sanded for weeks, but now it is all very flat and shiny! Sorted out why headlights don't work, buggered relay and dash switch, all fixed now though. Also remounted fuel pump, it was swinging under the car by a chain of zippy ties, now bolted firmly to the chassis. Have tracked down a set of r31 handbrake cables, so will pick them up soon, the factory crown has a centre pull single cable type arrangement so will set up the r31 ones instead. Bought some paint for the door cards too, they are red, and the seats and everything else is tan, so will spray these with the colormatched paint. Working away again as always so progress is weak, the list is getting shorter though. to do: assemble diff with new studs. make brake lines for diff. bleed brakes. make inspection cover for gearbox so animals don't get eaten by flywheel. Get tailshaft made. Fit r31 handbrake cables. Fit all trims internal and external, sunvisors ect. Fix exhaust side exit (not legal) Maybe fit retractable seatbelts too for mods approval. Damn, i think i will stop thinking about it actually...............................way too much to go.......................

not much ke70 left, but still crazy cool!

for the power windows, the easiest way to do it is to use the power window system from a mid 80s to early 90s jap car. most of these have a cable operated system that is quite easy to adapt to any vehicle, go to the wreckers, and have a look behind the doorcards of a 929, 626, cressida, ect, and you will see what i mean, the system they use is quite universal with a few homemade brackets. could probably even get some pics of some next time i go to the old mans shop.

^^^ for this idea, i agree hide it, they make no noise so under the dash? Clark rubber supplies door rubbers for ke30, they were $50 each when i got them, very good quality, mine would be 5 years old and still sweet. For windscreen rubbers i used windscreen a obrien one for my front $100 but they only do front, so i had to use a clark rubber one for the rear, i think it was $130, but they are all still overrated condition after 5+ years.

oh yeh, as for the turbo, a bush bearing turbo has (on average) 4 circlips in it, and two bushes, simple as, pull it down, clean it out, if it has had a recent rebuild it will be fine, it will require no rebuild, if you have never pulled down a bush turbo before pm me, i am happy to provide instructions.

yes bigger turbo, i am much into the drag scene, i think a goal of a high nine is under the level of the vehicle. Have some respect, the v8 has the potential to make the rola look insignificant, go the tonna.

mmmmm, 10s, good mph so far. love the corty and the val