oh what a nissan feeling!

Legally it has to be on the external paneling of the vehicle, which imo rules out tail light. I used to have mine under the boot lid, but external of the boot rubber, it was engineer approved, but i moved it now because it used to catch water, and would be more pig friendly under the plate. Cut off my old fuel filler, it used to pool water in it. And welded the boot lip back in. Added new filler behind number plate.

Really junk turbo. They spool pathetically slow on the rb20, it would be like a gt35 on a 5k!

SR20? 25kg's, plus i have way too many dead ones lying around!

I'm almost certain it is not legal to put an older engine in a newer car, due to emissions.

Moved the motor into final position today, but first: factory mounts had to get removed off chassis, they simply didnt even get close to lining up, so out came the grinder. This is factory jero position vs commo engine position. jero mounts gone, will also have to re-make the passenger side mount for the engine, it is factory alloy and all wrong for me, so will have to make another from scratch. mounts, will likely reuse these, engineers like a factory look. put pajero transfer/gearbox crossmember in and bolted up. engine in final position.

Yeh i did look into the gto motor, fairly briefly though, the gto is a quad cam engine, so would be more suited to a swap into the 95 onward (nj) pajero. I was also concerned about the clearance of the turbos in the bay as well, custom manifolds would be likey i think, i didnt manage to find anyone who had done it, or any pictures of one done. I did try to track an engine down too to have a look at, but was unable to find one anywhere in qld. I decided the commo motor would probably end up being the easier conversion in the end. I'm not the biggest fan of the thought of the it, but i think once its done, in function it will a blast. In fact we estimate it will probably run a high 14 on the quarter mile with the 10psi pulley on it. The old beast is going to be a whole lot of fun up fraser island, or thrashing through the bush!

Into a normal old rwd this would be a pretty easy conversion. The wiring on a commo v6 is possibly the simplest i have had to deal with, its like holden knows their cars are rubbish, so they make it nice and easy to use the engine elsewhere.

has to be second gen for me. lightweight, rwd, best looking (by miles), and suprising amount of room inside. :yes: :yes:

both adaptors on and ready join the two joined The commodore front sump is going to be no good in the jero, it needs a rear sump. sump is removed from engine for test fit in jero. I will be using the older vn-vp steel sump as a base for a new one. In an effort to keep dirt out of the motor i wrapped the steel sump gasket in glad wrap, and bolted it back to the motor. Time to test fit. sitting in the bay, i ran out of time to bolt up transfer case crossmember, and properly position motor. It looks to me at this stage that i will have to remove the old brackets off the chassis, as they do not even close to line up with the commo brackets. I have the old man coming over tomorrow for a looksy, and a bit of advice, so we will move it into position tomorrow. :y: :)

nice work mate, very neat job. :cool: whats the red product?

thankyou sir, now which wall to hang it on :hmm:

Now there's a quote i wish i could frame. You can claim all the hp in the world, but one full power run at the drags will tell the true story every time.

man that paint looks insane, love your work guys. go the wags!

The older bluebird series 1, 2 and 3 sender is cable, and bolts straight into the sr20 gearbox so you can use the factory corolla cable.

Yeh, small gearbox,can be built to 1000hp too. the sr20 bellhousing still needed some serious clearing though. Got the shift kit fitted, was very extensive, lots of new bits, drilling, springs, valves, ect. Also fitted high rpm oil pump kit, which was interesting. gearbox is all back together now, but not yet bolted to transfer case, i need to get a welsh plug for a hole in the transfer case first.

I ran the ra28 ones for quite some time on my ke30, they have a large solid disk, about the same size as the stock xt130 but solid. I had a set of xt130 struts to trial as well, and yes the camber was all wrong. I did try the vented xt130 disk and caliper on the ra28 strut, but i seriously cannot remember the results with the bearings ect, its probably been 6-7 years. I went with the commo stuff before i got too far into it. I may still have both sets at the oldies house somewhere, will have a look next time i go there.

^^^ with this the ra28 celica struts have correct camber on a ke30, and the larger bearing size. I wouldn't bother replacing the flywheel bolts, not even the owners manual tells you to do that. Also what you have done with the flywheel and sanding disk works quite well, i wouldnt risk it on a car like this though, just to be sure. use thinners to clean both flywheel and metal clutch surfaces before assembly. Also i have a full manual for an sr20, so if you need bolt torque specs or anything, just pm me.

Not digging at you man, i think we all know how to sweep floors and mask up, which is apparently all some REAL apprentices have been doing. I'm an electrician by the way, so yeah one of them 'backyarder' types.

but are you a spray painters apprentice? ;)

But you're not a REAL spraypainter's apprentice, how could you possibly know?

yep, go the sunny coast. Transgo reprogramming kit arrived today, with transgo oil pump high-rev kit, and new oil filter. :D should be able to get the auto back together tomorrow if work doesnt hold me up.

10mm from an engineers perspective.

Thanks mate, I love the celicas, i kinda wish this was one. Keep in mind this engine bay will owe me 60 to 70 hours when its painted, thats a lot of time. this is the most important stage, if this aint perfect you end up with a whole lot of bog. You need to be able to shrink, and weld. You also need a few different types of dollys and a panel hammer. To shrink you usually use an oxy, but instead i have a plumbers yellow gas bottle, these are propane? i think. $80 for bottle and tip. To shrink a spot you heat it until expands into a lump (this doesnt have to be red hot), and then tap the lump down with a hammer, then wait for it to cool. Lots of the bumps you want to remove will go away by shrinking, in fact you will be amazed at what you can do with persistence. anything you can't remove by shrinking, you will have to cut, panel beat, and weld. Weld all seams if you plan on smoothing them over. When panel beating, never hold the dolly behind the bit you are hitting unless you are trying to stretch the metal. Always hold it beside where you are hitting as a support. Once you have the metal where you need it bring out the bog to make it real smooth. You only get what you pay for with bog, never buy k+h anything! My bog is $65 for 4 kg. Then you need spot putty, i use dolphin 2 pack high viscosity. I pretty much regret doing this to my car because of the time it has taken, the whole car would have been painted by now, and ready for assembly, so be aware of the work involved before you begin, as there is no turning back once you start. cheers~matt

Painted interior bits today, got some flat paint of the interior colour. painted rear seat, steering column, handbrake, door cards, dash. started fitting some dash frame bits, and pedal box. also engine bay is ready for final layer of undercoat.

The biggest thing i've found with low amp welding is cleanliness. wire buff, sand, grind, just make it real shiny and clean. I also found the .6mm wire to be a heap better to use for the thin stuff too.