oh what a nissan feeling!

Basecoat is 50/50, normal acrylic is more like 20%. Definately ask a paint shop before mixing!

man, that does suck. Which parts of the front cover are leaking? How far apart have you had the motor?

Yeah, whatever primer, (k+h sucks) you should etch prime bare metal before primer, some products claim to etch prime as well though which would be ok on small areas. Its been a while since i have used acrylic, i can't remember for certain how much thinners, all of the above people would know though.

yeh, i know. On holidays on the gold coast atm, supposed to be taking this up fraser island over the new year break, need to get my crap together! going to look at a ktm 300 this arvo, just what i need, more toys :hmm:

:lolcry: :lolcry: yep, disregard everything i said, i will never be a REAL spray painters apprentice :sob:

Wipe the whole car over with prepsol before you start, then wash off. Wet sand all over with 600-1200 grit. The idea is not to take paint off, but to roughen the surface, as soon as the shine is gone from the paint it is good to go. I recommend to be careful with using machines, as you may ruin the surface flatness, will only take a few hours by hand. Use a sanding block for all flats. any rust spots need to be taken back to bare metal, treated and etch, undercoat used.

yeh mate, a bit has happened, no pics though, have made chassis side of mounts, still need to tack them in place. have also made half of the sump, but need to finish the mounts so i can remove the blocks of timber the motor is sitting on to trial fit it. pics soon :yes:

man, i am so jealous, sooo much fun!

points gap good? Dissy cap not cracked? 1342 is correct, are you going in the right direction though? car looks mad :y:

nice build mate, so good to see it finished so well. :y:

Quotes like this: are the knowledge basis for statements like this: :hmm: need i say anymore........ except this:

:lolcry: you my friend, should be writing articles for hot 4s magazine.

300rwhp is considered safe with a stock sr20det, this will require a good tune,an injector upgrade, and a gt28rs. That combined with the purchase price of the motor and gearbox and your money is mostly spent. Gearbox will live at this level if you be nice to it, and never use 5th gear under power. Not many people need more power than that in a little corolla. and yes BEAMS! :yes:

Cool, good to hear the beast lives, and is still loved. :y:

bring on the dodgy bathroom scales weights people! One man can lift a 4k, man thats a solid effort/ light motor!

I haven't seen a topic on this, although whenever an engine conversion is talked about its the first thing bought up! Engine weights. So who volunteers to weigh their engine? I used some bathroom scales and an engine crane. (the scales were glass too!) So i will start, please add to this if you can. SR20DET = 120kg This included, cast turbo manifold, flywheel, cas, inlet manifold, fuel, oil in sump. everything except for starter motor and alternator. I imagine a long motor would be under 100kg. Weights I hope you guys can provide. 3,4,5,7K series 4age 3sge ca18 1g anything else you have on your garage floor!

The c4 to sr20 bellhousing adaptor arrived from the usa. bought a new spraygun for undercoat and all that. cut the dash around the roll cage, i painted the dash first then realized i had to do this, always the way. Its a real neat fit now. Some of the 'new old stock' bits i have managed to track down, not cheap, but so nice! Also a roll of beige carpet for interior bits. and my hurst shifter

Yeh, you are probably right. To be honest i have never made mounts like this before. My old man runs a hod rod shop, and most of the rods run this type of mount, so i am happy to give it a try. The commo engine should run nice and smooth, so it wont be like a lumpy old beast. I hope its not too bad, give it a try i guess.

Engine mounts! half done...... This is the passenger side mount off the motor, it is all alloy and goes really low to avoid the air con pump that sits right beside it. It hits hard on my front diff well before the motor is in position. So, i had to design, and make a new mounting point off the motor, that clears the aircon. it has to fit behind it in the narrow gap between the aircon pump and knock sensor. This is made of 6mm and 8mm plate. I am using shackle rubbers for engine mounts as i went though a heap on my last jero. This is the adaptor to go to shackle rubbers on the drivers side of the engine, not ground and painted yet. So now i can actually start to mount the engine, and do more on the sump.

Man that is a solid run, with that mph + a back off 9s are for certain. what tyres are you running?

higher lobe seperation, 114 for turbo grinds usually, na cams are usually approx 108.

High lift and big duration is possible, lobe separation is the biggest difference in a turbo cam important to prevent this^ from happening.

I'm impressed, can't get any more detail than that! gotta love that colour :cool:

man that colour is insane, love your work!

Thanks guys. Been putting some time into everything but this atm. The only thing i have done is attempt to fit the dash in the car, but i failed to realise that it needs to be cut around the cage. I made the cuts with a holesaw and grinder, the passenger side turned out perfect, the drivers side was not quite as tight, but still ok. So, time for some more paint...... :cool: The strength of the bay is in the upper and lower rails, in between is coke can metal. What i have actually removed is ripples, and press marks. These are designed to remove excess metal from the process in which they take a flat sheet, and attempt to press it into a complex shape. Also the heat used to shrink metal is much less than that used to weld, so when you seam weld a car, are you increasing strength or reducing it? cheers~matt