oh what a nissan feeling!

cool as. :cool:

Hi man, I spend a one arvo a week on this, so it continues to progress, the photos all look the same though as its all undercoat still, so will post pics as soon as i spray some topcoat. I found this pic of the tunnel, i think i added about a 3 inch wide strip into the top of the tunnel that i can just see in this pic. Not such a big deal really, now that i think about the mods needed to the rear of the tunnel for the manual, in hindsight, if the rest of the tunnel clears the auto would be easier i think. :hmm: cheers~matt

A manual bellhousing clears the front of the tunnel with minimal fuss, the auto needs a fair amount of cut/weld to clear. may i suggest a manual? or for auto, if you can find my ke30 thread you can see the clearance required. cheers~matt

cool, good to see the beast lives! :cool:

so what broke?

:hmm: not yet, bit of a delay. I decided to fit the front locker, its been on the shelf for a long time, so if i don't put it in now i never will. Anyways, pulled lots of junk out of the front to get to the diff.... This little axle was a real prick to remove, even with this rather large slide hammer. Then more crap to remove..... Anyways, finally got to the last bit, no more star gears, and attempted to fit the lokka. And, well....good old mitsubishi. It turns out i have the 7.25" front diff instead of the normal variety 8". These 7.25" look identical, and only come out in auto, or diesel pajeros...or mine for some reason that noone can explain. So, options are: either put it all back as there is no locker available for my diff, or find the larger diff to fit into my junk box.

nice trailer, this is $8. a lineal meter, and scratches real easy. what colour you going?

All finished, even remembered to weld the sump plug in, also bought a flap disk and smoothed it all off. my helper. Bought some of that por15 chassis coat unchipable paint and a brush. mounts Also bought another transfer case wiring loom from the wreckers after the dog ate the plugs off mine. This was the only other hold up from putting the engine back in.

Man that looks insane, nice stance. 4 stud convo pros? how so?

classic, i always leave the bbq bottle on :bash: Sounds good to me man, i have never even been in an auto 4wd, but everyone recons its the go, can't wait to find out. cool man, sounds great, come have a look and a beer.

Yeh, on a saturday morning too :bash: Oh well, a whole lot of relaxation this weekend :)

looks mad now man :cool:

Mounts are now welded, had to get the old man to bring his welder over, mine has no grunt, it struggles to weld the sump metal. He also finish welded the sump pickup with the oxy, i don't trust the mig for something that important. A bit of a rust colour already, it has been 2 days...... also soldered the wires back on my diff switch, and fixed a knock sensor plug that come off too. motor will go back in for the last time real soon, would have been this weekend, but my gas bottle is now empty and the shop is closed, so i am unable to finish welding the sump.

cool, i have velo fixed back for mine, everyone who has them loves them, but i have never had mine in a car yet. keep the updates coming.

found camera! The other side mount on the engine all finished and installed. Sump so far, one side is missing so that i could make the pickup. pickup all finished, had to make a brace back to the main cap. how it sits right now started to weld the last side into the sump, but it got too late. The mounts tacked in place onto the chassis rail, will be finish welding tomorrow. and last of all the ktm i purchased recently, all stripped down after the weekend ride.

cool, should be a beast :y:

Just looking at one i have here fitted to a 6" rim, the side wall is perfectly square, i think with a 7" it would be a slight stretch. As far as grip goes, the best grip from this size tyre would come from the 6" rim, anything larger would start to remove tread contact from the road. I can see why you want to run wider rims, it will be great to fill those gaurds. it just sucks that tyres get so expensive once you step away from the norm.

ummm, can't find the camera............... lots has happened, but without pics i havn't bothered updating :huh: Mounts are all complete, but need finish welding. engine is out for the last time and sump is very nearly complete. will find camera soon..... :sob:

Awesome, so good that you are back into it, extremely jealous of the 2 door. :cool:

looks insane, very neat work!

Nice work mate, moving fast :cool:

will take a pic for you mate. Cheers mate. Mostly price for the shifter ($180 new from memory), they feel a bit more quality to use too imo, just a bit less rattley. there is progress on this too, will update soon with pics :y:

cas is easy mate. Put on top dead centre, firing on number one, and put it back the same way. mark it precisely with a nikko if you are worried, :y: vid is well done, if you can do all that cas is a joke!

cool! thats a busy 3 months! colour :hmm: new commo dark green? :cool:

I don't think the head has to come off, the whole sump does though, and oil pickup. there are two bolts to remove from inside the tappet cover, unbolt all the rest of the bolts, and attempt to break the silicone seal with a few wedges. The only drama you will have by doing it this way, is that you may have to sand a small amount off the top of the front case where the headgasket would normally seal it, and put a bit of silicone instead, this will make it easier to line up the bolts again. I have done it before, and it resealed no worries at all. Remember to replace the o ring between the front cover and block $20 for one o ring, but worth every cent, as this will likely be the cause of the leak.