oh what a nissan feeling!

What you have described sounds pretty normal for an old car with a steering box. (your corolla) There is an adjustment you can do, but you have to do it right. Jack the front of the car so the wheels are not touching the ground. On top of the steering box is a small adjuster that takes a screwdriver, it also has a locknut on it. loosen the locknut and screw the adjustment in a small amount, steer the car lock to lock, taking careful note that the steering does not get any harder on full lock either way. Repeat until this does start to happen, ie slightly harder on full lock, then change back to previous adjustment when this did not happen. Tighten lock nut, job done.

cool, do it, that would be 3 racing rollas, and mine once i get my crap together......

sounds great, 2 rolla's, i think i will try to get there for a watch. :y:

thanks mate. The crossmember is modded, the sr20 mounts aren't, the platforms are factory but cut off and adjusted slightly. This is the easiest way to do it if you are doing a one-off. The mounts are changed to ta22 celica ones, these are much the same as corolla ones, just more substantial. Happy to answer any qs for your conversion.

Thanks guys, some solid progress finally. more paint. I can now hang the doors and fix the shape of the rear doors, they have slightly more roll where they meet the quarter than they should, will fix this on the car to get it perfect. Bare metaled the gaurds, mine were buggered so i bought these ones, they were painted in matt black so i was ready for some suprises. Rust was very minimal. there are a few small dints, and one gaurd had a bit of a twist, or crease across it. I have finished with the straightening, but need some mig wire to fix the rust spots. looks like the gaurds are going to come up good, the apron is a bent up, rusty lump of tin, so i need to find another one. Anyone got a front apron panel for sale?!??!, early ke30 one prefered

Thanks for the comments! Must be something wrong with my pics, even imageshack doesnt like them, but i managed to get a few up with the slow upload. I don't have the wideband atm brad, it is on loan, but will see if its available soon. Didnt make it today carlos, things went a bit too slowly to get there at a reasonable time, will have to check out the beast soon!

anything new and exciting? pics?

things didnt work out as planned today, could have made it by about 1, but in previous years it has been all over by then :( oh well there is always next year :bash:

Shell and engine bay is painted, turned out great, photobucket is not working, so pics are not happening for me atm.

cool, on a whole sounds like things are going well after the submersion setback, good to hear, keep the updates coming. :yes:

cool, sounds like you know what you are doing, easy for some, impossible for other. :y:

mad vehicle, and fast progress! The best corolla shape ever made imo. :y:

yes just sand surface rust away, treat with rustkill if any evidence remains. I think it needs to be stressed that fibreglass is not a good repair job, it is a half arsed effort at best, but will last a whole lot longer than bog. Get your oxy out and fix it properly if you like the car and plan on keeping it.

man thats insane :yes: , looks like a hard colour to photograph.

man this has turned out so good, there is nothing i would change :y:

low never looks bad, but there is a point where your spine becomes the suspension, and a minor bump on the road is enough to send you off the road and into the nearest gutter. :yes:

nice work mate, bodywork is never fun, stick in there or it will drag on as long as mine. can't wait so see the finished result. :yes:

They do make a cooler kit, a spacer plate style water to air, real pricey though. Probably the biggest let down with this setup if i was chasing some extra grunt, its pointless without the intercooler, and the smallest one available is $1200. Beer time :yes: , too right! still got my number?

8" diff :yes: bolts straight in and comes with a factory rear air locker. so driveline should be near bulletproof. intake used jero air box on its side, got some silicone so i don't drown it again, just need some pipe 3.5 inch Had to remove washer bottle to fit snorkel inside the guard, still room for it, just need a different shape. Got some 33 muddies too on procomp rims.

Yep, nothing wrong with batch fire, no reason to do it to a 4 pot though. Carlos, he can do anything you like, may as well give him the car and let him do a zorst manifold too, the price is right. The queue is usually long though.

carlos yeh cooler is in same location as yours pretty much, itbs from gtir, probably more trouble than what they are worth really. tas good pickup, i thought exactly the same thing after i put the pics up, but they are actually four separate coils mounted ontop of each other with a pretty little bracket. :y:

Hi mate, got some pics of the plenum today, also found one on my computer of it kind of set up. Its a bit dusty from being in the shed. prepping under the boot and bonnet. the best use for an sr20 block? A wheel rack i built for the shed, not quite finished hanging it though... Also a few bits arrived in the mail, fuel filter, and msd dis4 ignition and coils, more stuff still on its way.

No worries at all man, you might be able to get some time in between the storms. :bash: Picked up new diff out of a 97 model on monday, 8" this time. :yes: so began fitting the front locker but got lazy and decided to go inside and crank the aircon up. Also have a new rear diff on its way from victoria, its a larger one out of a '99 model, bolts straight in and comes with a factory rear air locker. so driveline should be near bulletproof. Looks like the rear tailshafts share the same uni joint too, so that little problem is easy to sort as well. New ratios are 3.6, instead of the old 3.9, so the missus should be able to get some good economy, i know i won't. Pics coming soon, the woman must have the camera.

What i found was 3s was all steel up until beams, and from rally forums had big problems with steel block cracking. From what i found they had various solutions with the block cracking but none were convincing enough really. For the beams i heard a million stories but concluded that it is an alloy block, and with the possibility that they used the same casting i decided not to be the lab rat and attempt thing i could find no info at all on. If you can shed any light brad, please do. cheers!

^^yep, i seriously thought about changing this to beams, after a whole lot of research i found the block couldn't handle the power i need, so sr20 stays. Wait till i pull the ke25 back out of the shed though, have i got some plans for that!