oh what a nissan feeling!

A lack of surge tank has to be the issue, would probably start happening around 1/4 tank of fuel with a few corners. Do you know what pump he used in the tank? Perhaps use that to feed the surge tank, add a new pressure pump to the front - problem solved. Or only fill the tank halfway?

Yep, efi is pretty devestating.

cool, another susnhine coast dweller, tewantin area apparently :y:

Thanks man, powercruise is so much fun! Caltracs create (under power) a solid link between the diff and its front mounts, the diff can no longer twist up or move around at all. What you are typically feeling under power is the diff twisting the springs into an 's' shape as the pinion points itself up towards the floor of the car. With a clatrac link to the front mount this can no longer happen and your diff feels like it is part of the car again, traction is a side benefit.

i have done this about 2 years ago. You use the hub, disk, and rear backing plate from the ke55, one bearing from ke55 and one from the ke20 and it all bolts onto the ke20 strut and stub axel. It does work i assure you, so don't stress about the new rims they will fit.

Great work mate, not far off now looks like its coming together nicely. :y:

Read this mate, should be the answer to what you describe http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/57115-ke55-rear-end-options/page__p__574865#entry574865 Awesome car man, the paint looks insane, time to get the rewards for all the effort, lots of driving :y:

yikes! picture is a bit unclear, definately dodgy, but why the lack of clutch? Did the master cylinder pull out of the firewall?

Run in should be done under high load, and without using the redline end of you rev range. Eg. A good mountain run using higher gears at lower revs on the hill climbs, try to really labour the engine.

^^the front mount ca20, they are quite funny under the bonnet, it just looks like something is missing between the firewall and rear of engine...oh wait 2 cylinders! :yes:

There is a more generous amount of room under the ke20/25 compared to ke30/55. if you have any chance of keeping it under the existing floor you would use have to use triangulated top arms. The biggest problem i can see is what to tie the 4 link into given the limited structure under the rear of the ke2x, perhaps a roll cage would be a good idea.... Keep us updated on your progress

love the wantanabe's, man they look insane with a solid dish. :y:

Thanks mate. I still need to order my stall converter for the auto, plus the engine is pulled down again because it has sat for a year or so now. not much to put it together though, just need to finish port matching the head, i only do an hour at a time, my poor compressor doesnt have a real big tank, so it doesnt get much rest time. Yeh, lots of bog dust and overspray , I always say i will hose the shed out once i finish painting, it seems that day will never come. don't shave your rear vents, it really is a prick of a job, so much time in those rear panels getting them to flow like they should, in hindsight not really worth it. same with the engine bay smoothness, but gotta try everything once i guess... Yeh just used a pick to clean the numbers out, i have been caught out before while trying to get a car regoed. I had a few chips up there too, so not a complete waste of time. :y:

Exactly the same mate, they just cut the triangles into funny shapes is all. looks good though, them hyme joints would be the go, more $$$ though..

bit late reply, but man that sucks, what happened? failed to clean out chassis numbers, and body numbers before i painted, so had to re-do it. shifter port matching to gtir quads new alloy kick plates, plastic sucks. Welded up filler for drop tank c4 adaptor swaybar fitted, larger ke55 one new egay swaybar links all painted, mine snapped the bolts a bit rusty Rechromed rear bar ready to go, 2 pack mounts ect. Paint stripped my two front bars, one will serve as a in between bar while i fix up the other. re-routing factory wiring, will be hidden so positions change, and not needed plugs deleted. Dash loom. dash painted, need trans temp and oil temp gauge to fill 2 more holes. Made a new gate for the house, turned out good. Also bringing the ke25 over soon, will probably chuck spare sr20 in it, already shortened r31 diff for it really wanted 3s beams power, but the sr20 is free, beams is 3 grand..

i didnt change the front mount for the caltrac setup, it worked really well, it was other reasons. I pulled a wheel off and got some pics this arvo , I did not change the tramp bars at all when i changed the front mount, same bars, triangles, ect. I have since found some rear trailing arms off a late 80's fwd nissan pintara that are strong and fully adjustable length, so my next set will be made from those.

I got a new top leaf made for mine that uses the rear shackle rubbers (smaller) on the front eye as well. Only cost $80 for the two new top leafs. I then shaved down the ends of these rubbers to allow enough room to fit the caltrac triangle with a thin washer either side. so the triangles are inside of the front mount with the spring, this allowed me to use the standard front bolt setup. From there i used two random panhard rods cut down to length, sleeved and re-welded, and a couple of tabs welded under the plate that your U bolts go through. My front leaf mount is now custom, so i can't get exact photos, but will take some pics anyways.

I have been using caltracs (home made) since my car first hit the road. If you look at the design they only do anything when you are under power, other then that the leaf is allowed to move around like normal. As far as causing oversteer goes, in theory if you had them adjusted up real hard on the spring i think that is a possibility. I have never noticed it at all. i think if you were worried about it just leave a 5mm gap between the where the link hits onto the leaf and it would prevent the possibility of a problem. They are great, they give traction and control under power, and completely eliminate tramp. Definately the way to go if you have your level of power or more.

^^^ yep i have found that too, rear swaybar induces way too much oversteer, although it doesnt hurt to experiment. Remember too that a swaybars ability is not measured in thickness alone, a lot of aftermarket ones are not real thick but much more effective than the factory ones.

cool, eagerly awaiting pics :yes:

Making mounts is straight forward, and probably the easiest bit. Its the small things that take the time and thinking ability. clutch for example.... Oh yeh, pictures?

I would have to question why you would want larger rear brakes than your front? I also question how this will effect your pedal travel and feel, and also your bias, as a skyline uses a larger bore master cylinder.

You do get what you paid for, it really is a good idea to avoid those obscure brand, they all seem to want to kill you in the wet. Not everyone has the money to spend on good tyres, but ive found if you spend the extra $20 per tyre on say "nankang" or something similar in the budget range they still grip in the wet.

You can only use the salsbury (spelling?) type diff, the borg warner axels don't work. Only the ke30s had them i believe, so ke55 axels wont do. Use the ke30 drum brakes and axels as a package, and yes they need to be shortened slightly. (grinder)

Awesome, really outstanding work! Car of the year next year for sure! When you butt weld something like this, leave an (appox) 3mm gap between the two pieces you are welding, the weld will soak in much better, giving a flush finish weld, and more strength. :y: