oh what a nissan feeling!

progress! nice work, imo good call with the bonnet vs crossmember thing, things are going well.

Shame about powercruise, a mate of mine had his datsun stanza turned down as well a few years back, probably should have got it all one colour with one of those mix-up pressure packs and then covered it in baby oil to give it that nice shine! Reverse scoop hey...... maybe buy a torana? :hmm: nice work mate, great to see how quickly you hit the drags, one seriously tough corolla.

Yeh true, though as it is the booster and master cylinder fit, its just the reserviour that doesnt. I had a look through my old pictures and the manifold was made to fit with the commodore reserve on it, so i will just have to use that reserve and the prblem is solved. Here is the pic i found I will be using the pajero/ke30 setup on my ke25 in the future i think, thanks for your help / input!

panno all the way, coupes are slightly ugly!

ha ha nice vid!

Nah, the commodore one is nearly half the size in the right direction, can't seem to find it anywhere though.

So i jacked one side of the motor up to slide the plenum on, and it would appear that i had the smaller commodore master cylinder reservoir on when i got the manifolds done. A bit of a collision between the two, so the two options are: go with the smaller angled top commodore reservoir looks a bit crap, or move the engine over 10mm when I change the mounts to something stronger than the TA22 mount i have used up until now.

yep its true, but this isnt the only site that gets updated, so a simple cut/paste does the trick when the pics are linked.

so i payed the money, $40 for two years, pretty annoying when its been free for the last 10 years! meh, photos will be back soon anyways.

wtf. they want money no doubt, will have to start a new account.

Off the engine stand bolted auto up Stall converter bolted up in the little hole underneath engine in: Dummied up some accessories. The plenum doesnt slide in between the master cylinder like it used to because i have put studs in everything.

good advice If you don't ask too much of it your existing engine will handle a turbo well. nothing over 10psi and a really good tune are the main things to remember. Eg. do not get your turbo on and working, then take it for a thrash around the block before getting a tune!

Todays effort... engine painted, didnt do the rocker cover yet as it requires extra love. Also painted the gearbox, a bit of a half effort though as it will be surrounded by tunnel soon enough. Also decided to use the factory vacuum tank for the quads, moved some pipes around on it with the welder, and also changed the mounting bracket as my new plenum has had all the factory mounting points removed.

The beauty if rattle cans is the paint falls off within about 2 weeks, then you get the opportunity to use some better quality paint. :yes:

Had the day off today, got a few small things sorted. Head is now on the engine and torqued down. Drilled and tapped Wolf and Speco water senders into the factory positions, also tapped an extra position for the factory dash temp, might find a sender if i can be bothered, got the water around the engine sorted, heater will now be courtesy of 2x 12v hair dryers so minimalised the pipework. Turbo feed fitting. Heater pipes now looped. Have to sort out the vacuum tank for the quads, I have the factory one, not sure if I trust them pipes with 25psi. Also sorting out the throttle cable as the quads are from a fwd, looks like i will make it pull from underneath the quads, should be neater too. Painting engine tomorrow pending less rain.

Yep I'm putting it together, this will be the fifth sr20 I've built so I should get it right, I hope! :hmm: Stall converter arrived within 2 weeks as promised, looks the goods and fits good, will see how it works before i put the excessively large 'slingshot' sticker on my toolbox. Got a new front case / oil pump, Have now fitted that, sump, pan, pickup, well all the bottom bits. Assembled valves into head, newly cut and shut valve spring compressor works a treat. head consists of: Tomie 272 + 12.5 solid camshafts Narprec valve springs Brian Crower cro-moly retainers 1mm oversized valves in + ex Supertech stem seals Tomie solid lifters Bullet cnc race ports Adjustable cam gears New nissan rocker arms GKtech rocker stoppers ACL mls head gasket.

excellent, bring on the pics!

I like it. :yes: gt3076 for more fun.

spun bearing, I think even the above esimate is a little optimistic. Just because people prefer a 1jz does not make them rare, it makes them a good motor to avoid.

Cool, and yes everyone does want photos. :yes: Sound good though, lots of new parts. :y:

Your fist engine start should always be with a mechanical oil pressure gauge hooked up! even if its just temporary. Progress is so good, great story, great write up. :yes: I'm sure you'll sort that minor issue pretty quick. :y: Just for your info, the oil pressure sender has a 'tapered thread' on it requiring a special tap. The welding would have distorted your weld on fitting which is why it wouldnt screw in like it used to. :y: edit: you beat me to it, nice work, she starts and runs!!!

It was a shame your worst start was the one that mattered, i think he may have had you anyway though. Was real good to watch you work through the field to the top, you would have done that american car that came second if you had the chance. :y:

Man this rolaclub has some quality vehicles atm. :y: :yes:

I have one at my parents place. The gearbox is internally minimum wear, but 2nd is missing bits. Pm if you like

On my ke30 the rear of the grill is shaved off 15mm with grinder/sander, you can't really see it from the front as the grill remains the same but thinner.