oh what a nissan feeling!

Hi mate, I'm using a haltech ps1000, its controlling the boost as well. It was very straightforward for me to wire up, it could be wired in an hour to start the car, it's neatness that takes the time. It only really comes with a wiring diagram, and a few basic instructions so it really depends on your own knowledge and experience as to how easy/hard it might be for you.

Yep it's worth shopping around. My missus R34 skyrine got quoted at $1200 through Shannon, it has a list of bolt on mods but has no mod plates required. Went through suncorp for under half that price. The problem comes when you have mod plates, I attempted to insure the Pajero through suncorp, it has engine trans mod plate, they wouldn't touch it. It's through Shannons.

Mine is insured for $520 per year as a second car, which they define as driven approx 2 days a week. Club rego doesnt help that price really as my brothers car is on club, and has the same approx 2 days per week on it. Agreed value does not seem to change the premium either we have found. Lock up garage? good nieghbourhood? they are the other 2 factors i guess.

And nice work for persisting and finishing the conversion! It rarely happens.

Cool read , i don't think you will have any trouble a 13. Funny enough mine ran a 14.9 quite easily as an sr20de stocko with the big diff, so they arent as slow as they feel just lacking in torque.

Looks like a pretty good shell, floor rust is unusual but looks not too bad, cowl rust is a worry but hopefully as in the pics looks ok. The rest looks as good as you could possibly expect, pretty clean so far. I do wonder what the roof will reveal with that bonnet hinge damage...

awesome quality build! I really like the polished finish, but for me i would go a gloss black on the whole lot, seems to look really cool when done right imo.

I just spent the weekend at powercruise, car went well and ran well but the boost control solenoid failed to work, so we spent most of the weekend on 15psi. surprisingly it still went well and still won a heap of races, chopped a turbo ls1 commo, nitrous ls commo, ect. Went to the drags on friday night still on only 15psi, it ran a 13.2 @ 118 mph with a 2.8 60ft lol! Probably should have spooled it up on the line! Its a heap of fun to drive, i was running 205/50/15 mickey thompsons on the rear, it drives really straight under power, but needs at least 3 of us 100kg lads in it to make it hook up well, i went out with just me in the car and it still went dead straight but lost half its fasts in wheelspin. Today i finally gave up on the boost solenoid and did a bit of a dodge to get some boost into it, it ended up sitting on around 20psi this time so today was a blast, still well short of 25 pound but a huge difference in performance, i raced a heap of really serious V8's, rotors and 6's over 3 sessions, and lost to only one - a really nice turbo v8 vb commodore. Very surprisingly the traction and handling stayed the same even with a heap more power in it, which gives me hope that with the full amount it will likely still be good to drive hard at the track. The dyno graph is pretty fat probably because of the high stall auto, i will post it up soon.

Yep nambour, sounds good. e85 tune yesterday, 390hp @ 25 psi, turbo may be maxed out it didnt like 26.

Cool sounds good, just pm for my number, of the 3 things you mention the rust repairs are the hard one - thin sheetmetal. Autoone sounds good to me, my 2nd visit to the tuner is this monday, if that goes well i will be there.

All good advice. I have seen some bit larger disposable bottles at the bulk tool shops in Bris, only good for small stuff probably though. A tig can weld alloy and steel with pure argon. Mig can only do alloy with pure argon, needs a different gas for steel. Feel free to pm for any help at all, there are plenty of things I wish I knew sooner, happy to pass on what I can.

Great buy, Yeh the 3 phase ones are so cheap like you said. Should be a reliable machine and great for alloy too with the remote wire feed.

thanks heaps mate. I learnt to weld on a mig, my old man is a real good welder but i taught myself after he refused to weld stuff for me anymore. My mig died recently so I bought a tig instead, mostly because i wanted to be able to weld alloy, stainless, and steel. I hadnt used a tig before but the skills seem to transfer over really quickly, i would love to have a mig as well but a mig and a tig use different gasses, so i do only use a tig these days. a mig is great for quick bulk welding, and for awkward spots and there are times i really miss that. But the tig is just so much better for everything else, so neat, such flawless continuity in the welds. If you find yourself on the sunny coast you are welcome to come and test drive my tig, i have plenty of scrap to practise on.

thanks matt! Yep all finished for now, still working at getting the ke25 back together although should happen a whole lot quicker now.

Dropped the auto pan to change the oil, and to weld in a temp sensor bung, and drain bung. I also re-plumbed to boost controller to the wastegate, as per dyno tuners instructions. I also got the radiator back from the shop, they did a realy neat job of fixing a awkward spot to get at, really impressed. The beast now has full rego. and shannons insurance 25k. I still need to finish the hinged fuel filler rear numberplate bracket but its nearly done, making it out of stainless.

thanks heaps guys, I'm loving this end of the project. sunvisors installed, they are off a later corolla, the ke30 ones had a different shaped bar so didnt really work with the cage, these still got the hacksaw treatment on the side that is not visable. sprayed the fuel the fuel tank in black plastidip, look so much better, it will happen soon in 2 pack. radiator overflow all mounted up with nutsert and all that, the bracket isnt really pretty but you really need to kink your neck to see the bracket under there. It was a really rainy saturday this weekend, so i really got some stuff done on this. First was the exhaust, it had some flow problems that the tuner pointed out to me at the front of the pipe, and i really wanted to change the rear muffler too, for looks, and because its way louder than i want it. I picked up a bit of pipe and a muffler from the local exhaust shop. pulled exhaust off, and cut it where it i needed to. it was a mission especially trying to tack it with a tig, man i hate doing zorst work, if only scotty was closer. I had to adjust the tailpipe a fair bit because the new muffler is not straight through. all done, painted in calliper paint. all done

The wheels look real good, tough as.

You will want a 200 amp welder to comfortably weld 8mm. The smaller cig are crap China stuff a 200 will be good in cig. I would highly recommend a tig rather than a mig, mig welding is generally fast but messy. Tig is insanely neat, no grinding required.

wow mate nice update! looks good with the intercooler hidden, and the smooth engine bay looks insane, no pics of the new wheels??

Cheers matt, very stoked! This friday reed? It turns out the radiator leak is a split so maybe not this friday, hopefully if they can get it done quick enough that would be cool.

thanks mate! found the fuel supply issue, did a flow test on the holley lift pump, it was pumping out less than a litre per minute, yikes! Aeromotive 40 micron pre-filter not blocked. Pulled the bottom off the pump, the pump has a tiny mesh pre-filter of its own that is pressed in with a metal ring and loctite of some sort. So the metal ring has gone real rusty and the loctite stuff broken down, between both issues the little filter was really blocked, i could barely breath through it. So its now removed and all cleaned up, the pump has to have a 40 micron pre-filter so now the aeromotive has the job of doing that by itself. Flow test attempt no.2 was 4 litres in 20 sec, now thats better!! Finished off my radiator overflow bottle, sadly these are the only photos i have of anything. Also sprayed the fuel tank with black plasti-dip, looks so much better, definately going to spray it properly with 2 pack. Installed sun visors, this was a heap of fun with the roll cage, they do sqeeze up in between the cage and roof lining though so out of my face, and can be pulled out to actually work as well. Got the car a roadworthy today, passed no problems. :h5: Would have went and got rego but the radiator has sprung a leak! looks to be a crack so will have to pull that and have a look. car is booked for another dyno session on the 1st of september, things to sort out before then: 1. turbo housing bolts missing - replace + loctite 2. check turbo oil restictor is there and correct. 3. fix cat converter... 4. boost control plumbing as per mattys instructions 5. fix radiator leak 6. change trans fluid 7. change trans temp sender location 8. 4 bar map sensor installed 9. higher rated/ less melted fuse holder for twin pumps

Forget the old ecus and get a sprint 500, the software is really easy to use, and the product has current endless support. To save money buy the ecu, and make your own loom up. I have been in your position and i will guarantee you wont look back.

The headlight buckets are different between 30 +55 so would likely need them too.

You need to upgrade the front brakes, the bias will be way off. Small front cylinders and big rear. You also need to check the depth of the factory cylinder where the rod goes in from the booster and compare that to the pajero one. The depth needs to be the same for the booster to work propery.

nice work mate, shame about the crap workmanship. I wonder if there is an easier way than a cut and shut to do the job, keep at it mate, will be worth it.